moodier

My Feedback: (1)

Hi;Need some info on this.Have never used it before only used monocote so it is new to me.Have bought couple planes with cloth covering I assume that is what is on them and really liked it.Seems strong and durable beside looking real nice.Just got a Aeromaster and think would like to cover it with this type material.Is this stuff hard to work with?Any recomendations on using it?Comments will be welcome.Imagine somewhere there is a post on using it everything seems to be somewhere on here!Thanks!!

LuvBipes

My Feedback: (4)

I prefer Solartex, because it's easier to apply and adds considerable strenght to the airframe. 21st Cent is finicky add cannot be shrunk drum tight. It adds little strength to the airframe.

ho2zoo

My Feedback: (5)

I disagree with LuvBipes for the most part. I have covered two planes with 21st Century Fabric and I thought it was very easy to work with. I really liked the way it goes around curves. I didn't think it was 'finicky' at all. I covered a Pica Spitfire with it and then painted over it- it took primer and paint very well. Last year I covered a 40-sized Fokker Triplane with it and it looks great.

I think it shrinks just fine, but it does seem to bubble up some over time. That's my one complaint. But, I just run the iron over it again and it sticks back down. On my Spitfire I used Balsarite (for fabric) first and I think that helps a lot.

Give it a try!

wascamp

My Feedback: (1)

At 3.1 oz. per yard for the painted stuff, I find it a little heavy compaired to Sig Koverall and Dope. I love the way Koverall confoms and it will shrink tight enough to crush a light structure if you are not carefull. It takes paint like no other product I have ever used. It can be ironed on using the heat activated glues that are available or it can be put down using nitrate dope ala silk. It is a lot cheaper than the iron ons even counting the cost of the dope. It can be painted using almost any paint you can think of. You can see an example of how it goes on in the Mosquitobite TriPacer build thread in this forum. I covered a 72 inch wing with one piece of fabric, wing tips and all. You might consider using it if you can stand the nitrate dope smell.
That's just my opinion but I have tried lots of products and this is my new favorite.

quint-rcu

My Feedback: (24)

I've used Century-21 favric on several planes over time and find it very easy to use and requiring no additional finishes. It is a bit heavier than a lightly painted fabric, but the pluses outweight the minuses for everyday use. It's important to separate a prefinished product such as Century-21 fabric from those that require sealing and painting just as it is to separate ARFs from kits and scratch built planes. We all use many methods for finishing. I use fabric, fiberglass and shrink-on coverings for applications and Century-21 has a place among them.

moodier

My Feedback: (1)

Hi;Well appreciate all the info!Only trouble is sometimes a little info is dangerous,now I have all kinds of things to think about.I started out with only the Century 21 now all those othere alternatives too.

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

As an experiment I covered 2 identical 40 - 60 size planes, one with Coverite (21st Century Fabric) the other with SolarTex. The weight on the 2 airframes was within 1/2 oz before covering. After covering, the SolarTex covered plane was almost 4 oz lighter.

Since the planes were short nose/long tail, the total difference after balancing was almost 6 oz.

Both are LOW TEMP coverings. While the adhesive on the SolarTex is excellent, you will need to coat the airframe AND any overlaps with Balsarite or SIG StixIt to insure adequate/proper adhesion with the Coverite.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Go with the 21st Century. It's a great place to start with Fabrics.

blvdbuzzard

I have had problems with the pre-painted 21st fabrics. I have used it twice and both times I have had trouble sliding the iron over the surface of the fabric. On both planes I have had wrinkles and bubbles show up after a month or so. It does shrink well and go around corners pretty well also. I have had some of the edges lift on the wing tips though. The lifting edges should not have been a problem because the planes are both "E" powered so there is no fuel or oil top get under the covering. I really liked the old Goldberg Colortex.

Dru.

voyager_663rd

for a cheaper alternative, it has been suggested old bedsheets (actually cheap cloth bought at wallyworld) works well too.

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

My experience with 21st Century fabric is also very positive. It requires specific heat settings, so a thermometer is handy for your iron, but I have found it easy to work with and durable. It is heavier than other coverings, but the finish is very nice. I buy the white, and mask and paint it instead of applying trim over it, it paints very well; I used Lustercote without any problems. Here's a Rascal 40 I re-covered after a crash, using 21st Century:

Scar

My Feedback: (3)

I covered a BUSA Cub (¼ scale) 108" wingspan, with Cub Yellow Super Coverite. It was not finicky, stretched well over wingtips and such, and stretched pretty taut. No changes in that so far. I wiped the sides down with alcohol and painted the black lightning bolt on, using vinyl tape to mask. Worked good.

To Iron, I would do the tac down around the perimeter with a low temp detail iron. Then I would cut up an old cotton sock into strips about 4" wide. I'd hold the ankle part of the strip at the handle, and with my other hand, stretch the toe end of the strip behind the tip of the iron. With this two hand technique, I went over all the edges, pulling the iron over the seam or adhesion zone, and (this is important ) pressing down the toe end of the sock with my thumb, after the iron had passed over the material. That pretty much stuck the film down, while the adhesive was cooling.

To shrink the covering in open bay areas, I just held the sock material so it was between the iron and the Super Coverite, and drug it slowly over the bay.

I think the most important part of covering with low temp adhesives is to press the covering to the structure while the adhesive is cooling.

Good luck,
Dave Olson

jb86

My Feedback: (8)

i've used coverite on several 40 & 60 size cubs. weight issue - goldberg clipped wing cub built with ultracote, then new one w/coverite, both powered saito 80, 13x6 - no difference in any aspect of flight. i think it looks great, and saves the painting step. when painting the lightning bolt, the easiest paint was nelson hobby's, doesn't require nitrate primer (as per coverite instrutions), use a foam brush to apply. at first i was nervous to use it, it's different. found it easier to use than monokote, quite easy to go around all the round surfaces of a cub. don't slide the iron (it drags too much), place the iron. my experience has been, don't rely on heat shrinking ability, pull it to fit (it stretches), i have found if i don't fit it tight enough sometimes it will loosen eventually. i called tech support, coat structure with Balsarite (for fabric), it's like molasses, i was told to dillute w/ monokote trim solvent (not ironex) until brushable (i use a 2" china bristle brush), use a respirator, this stuff is worse than film formula balsarite. my biggest complaint, eventually some of the edges lift (as mentioned above), it seems to only happen on the round edges (overlapping at seams); rudder, elev, wingtips. never along the bottom of the fuse, or any other straight flat surface. my fix- clean with alcohol (for fuel residue), brush the balsarite into the loose area completely, let dry almost completely, go over with the iron, use your finger to hold down till it holds, takes patience.

jb86

My Feedback: (8)

i'm not too savy about paints, what sticks to what. coverite instructions say - requires a coat of nitrate dope before painting. nelson hobby's is the only paint i found that sticks right to it - scuff with scotchbrite wipe with alcohol. use clear first when masked (to seal edge of fabric at masking) i hate spraying it, it is THIN like water, takes lot's of coats, i always get some runs. i've had great results with the cub lightning bolt with a foam brush, but i would paint a large area like that, maybe a foam roller. how do you prep for Topflite luster coat? your plane looks good in the photo. i'd like to build a clipped cub with the white/blue starburst, would you share so tips? thanks

TexasAirBoss

My Feedback: (22)

A Monokote man myself, I used 21st Century on my Ercoupe's wings. Loved it. If you are going for a fabric look, it couldn't be easier. It really shrinks well. Goes around curves well. BUT, it is sensitive about the heat. You must have the iron at exactly the right temp. The rapper says what the temp. is suppose to be. You need one of those little thermometers to set your iron. Go for it.

NJ Georgee

My Feedback: (3)

I have some sky loft to try and use its a silk product but resmbles dryer lint...lol
Have anyone used this yet and how well does it work?

CafeenMan

I used skyloft once and will never use it again. MANY coats of dope and it was still fuzzy. It just requires too much paint to fill and is a pain. Use Coverall instead of skyloft.

moodier

My Feedback: (1)

Hi;Originally asked question re;21st Century fabric.Now seemany others. Asked re;that one as we buy most of supplies from Tower who handles 21st Century,who handles these others?Are they about same cost as 21st?Thanks.

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

You can get 21st Century stuff through Tower.

NJ Georgee

My Feedback: (3)

Ok I beleave you on the skyloft reading the instructions,they keep saying "now dont worry about the fuzz...lol When I sent for it I thought since it was silk,I was expecting some fine type of fabric.But when I looked at it.it looks like the sheets you throw in the dryer for scent...lol could of used that instead.I have a silk map from ww2 I was thinking of covering a plane with it for some thing different.These are worth money today I heard but if its petty money,I think it would make an unusal covering. This is the kind of material I was expecting when ordering silk.