Having some difficulty getting a "clean" cut on Great Planes Flexible Cable Pushrod I thought I would consult the collective mind of RCU.

What I did in the past was apply some flux to the area I wanted to cut, heat with an iron and solder it as good as I could. This produced one "good" cut and another cut that looked awful. I've got to do this again to make a front steering cable of correct length as the former was too short.

Can anyone share with me their favorite method for doing this? All comments welcome.

Dave

You described how I do mine. Are you using a dremel or just plain ol wire cutters? I also use a torch for the solder when I do this instead of the iron.

I do the same thing, but I get two good ends. Are you cutting in the center of the solder?

Thanks, gents. Here's a clarification of what I did and might do next.

I used a soldering gun the last time and wire cutters. Not having a Dremel tool it never occurred to use one BUT IT DOES NOW (but I got to borrow a friend's).

Also this time I thought I would try a propane torch I have on the shelf and see if that doesn't help flow the solder deeper into the cable.

There is one other trick that works if you can find the proper size brass tubing for the cable to slide into. It needs to be a close sliding fit or it does no good. Take a piece of tubing 1/2 to 3/4 " long and slide it over where the wire is to be cut. Cut through the middle of the tubing with good wire cutters and grind the end smooth and square while still in the tubing or cut through everything with a dremel cut off wheel and slide off the remainder of the brass tube. The tube keeps the wires in position and keeps them from bending or flairing just as a good solder job does.

If you have a good sharp chisel, and a vise with an anvil flat, you can get a good clean cut with fraying with the chisel.

What did your vise do to you?[X(] I would hate the dents it left later when I was needing a smooth peening surface.

If it is a good vice, it wont leave marks. Of course, you will need to use a little restraint with the hammer.

I'm stickin to the solder method.

The solder method with my 400 watt solder gun has always worked for me. Solder beyond both side of the desired cut point and cut it with a dremel and a cut off disc. I typically solder with Silver Bearing solder (Stay Brite for example). It seems to be harder than regular lead solder.

Ordinary cutters will mash the cable. For better results you need a tool with a shearing action. Go to www.micromark.com and look at tools numbers 82477 and 80999.

Thanks one and all for the tips.

It seems to me that I'll take the newly soldered cable to my friend's house and borrow his Dremel tool. The Dremel is on my wanted list and after viewing those cutters at Micro Mark the 80999 is too.

Strangely enough, the propane torch didn't seem to help matters and my soldering gun took forever to heat. Eventually I got the cable reasonably filled with lead solder and will see tomorrow (Saturday) how well the Dremel does its thing.

It's like everything else in this hobby or any other, every time I turn around it costs me money to some little chore. [:-]

I don't build models to fly[X(]. I do it to get the cool stuff I need to build them.

Thanks Vicman for putting a positive spin on my last remark.

Just so you know what I finally did and what worked and didn't ...

Yesterday I took a propane torch and heated the cable to the point where it bent of its weight, slapped some flux on it, let it melt and then worked some lead solder into the cable. I didn't have immediate access to a Dremel tool so waited until today. My friend used his Dremel to cut it. The ends were cleanly cut and examination of the cable showed the solder had flowed deeply into the cable, it clearly showed the solder all the way through.

I like this just fine.

I put it into the model and am on to the next step in finishing the plane.

I think the torch helped heat the cable to the point where it expanded allowing the solder to flow through. It didn't appear that this had taken place but the after cut inspection shows that it did.

I think I could have cut it with some diagonals but didn't want to take the chance of wasting the cable.

This is the method I will use in the future.

Happy building AND flying all!

Diagnal cutters will work fine.

Have fun building a shop. I think I got enough stuff in this one to give Burt Rutan a good scare on the next X prize.

Goodnight, Vicman. Where do you build?

Nice shop by the way ... in the basement?

On the doorskin island in the middle. I will take a better pic.