acam37

My Feedback: (16)

I just completed a World Models Ultimate 30 and got to maiden it today. The first flight was uneventful with just a little trimming and see how it flew. I did a couple of full throttle passes to check for flutter and then just flew the rest of the flight easy to get a feel for it. The second flight was almost a disaster. I took off and after about a minuet the plane started to feel real sluggish and hard to control so I decided to land and check it out. During the turn to land it went into a nose down spiral and nothing I did corrected it. Lucky for me there was only minor damage which can be fixed in time for next weekend. Post crash inspection showed a good battery(5.2V under a load)and also good range check with all servos working fine. The only problem was that the bottom aileron on the left side came out due to the CA hinges not glued in properly(My fault) Is there a better type of hinge that I can use that is stronger? I have always worried that the CA did'nt penetrate enough and that this would eventually happen to me. Now that it did I want to go with a different type of hinging method. Any suggestions?

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

I used to use CA hinges but have quit using them in favor of Robart's Hinge Points. I feel they mount more securely and give better performance, and are more reliable.

The RCU magazine has a great how-to on installing Hinge Points, which includes a video that really does a great job of explaining how to do it. You can find the article here.

[link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=269[/link]

Hope this helps

Ken

exeter_acres

My Feedback: (2)

I no longer use CA hinges either...
You will get Many response that say "IF" you install them correctly they work fine... "IF" this and "IF" that etc.

I don't take that risk any more.. have had several fail... they didn't pull out... the simply broke at the flex point..
I have used Robart pins and they are great, but I have issues drilling perfectly straight holes so I use pin hinges
http://www.greatplanes.com/accys/gpmq3950.html

third one down... work great for me......I use Gorilla Glue (USE CARE with gorilla glue) and they work fine

SST

My Feedback: (2)

I use the Great plane pinned hinges, and then toothpic 'em, or else I'll use sewn gapless hinges. Wouldn't use CA hinges on a bet...

acam37

My Feedback: (16)

Thanks for the info. I believe I will use the robart hinges with the poly glue. That looks like a very secure hinge. I went back and checked the rest of my hinges and they seem to be in tight, but after that hair raising experience today I will never trust a CA hinge again. Everyone at the field swear by CA hinges and told me to just glue the old ones back in. I guess they enjoy watching my planes go down in flames.LOL

This is exactly the response I got

campbec

Hi,

Different strokes for different folks. I'm with RC Ken on the hinge points but I also use Hayes hinges on high speed, high stress air frames.

Cheers,

Colin

Gringo Flyer

My Feedback: (18)

Another vote for the Robart hinges. They look good, are strong, and easy to install correctly.

rccrazedman

My Feedback: (10)

I personally perfore the grate planes pinned hinges or whatever. but I have seen some cases of the ca hinges coming out. I used to use them glue them and pin them but I still fell better using something better because like exeter acre said they break at the flex point after some use. and you should never reglue old ca hinges always use new. that is of course for people who still use them.

sbd-5

My Feedback: (4)

i have used the dubro or klett pinned nylon hinge with hoppypoxy 2 and after 35 years they have not pulled out.takes a little more time to install than ca hinges but i have never had one come loose and i have built hundreds of r/c planes.when using the robart hinge points i hope the only ones being made now are the steel pinned ones as the nylon ones when the first came out hith hinge pointshad to be turned 180 degrees from the one installed before it or they would un snap and control surface would seperate.i will use robarts steel pinned hinge points on scale models to make the model more scale like with them

acam37

My Feedback: (16)

Man, I figured when I made this post that I was going to hear a lot people defending CA hinges to the end and giving testimony about how good they are. Just the opposite. I have always had my doubts about them and you all have convinced me. All my planes have been ARF's which overwhelmingly use CA hinges and I was just too cheap to buy better ones. But for the most part I was in such a hurry to get it built and flying that I didn't take the time to replace the sub- standard hardware that a lot of the "made in China" ARF's come with.
My advice to anyone who wants their planes to last longer than two flights is to thoroughly inspect the hardware that came with your kit or ARF and if there is any doubt,go ahead and spend the few extra dollars for better hardware.

SST

My Feedback: (2)

Oh, the 'hardware' supplied with these ARFs is the worst kind of junk, not to mention that the threads are all metric, so you can't use them with the SAE stuff you get at the hobby shop. I take nearly everything and pitch it and use my own. I've developed some firm principles where hardware is concerned, and will use only certain brands and types of hinges, clevises, fasteners and connectors.

Flying Hog

Another Vote for the Robart Hinge Points

4*60

My Feedback: (41)

And another for Robart hinges. I'm not a heavy duty flyer but have been confident in the use of them. They do have a template type device to help with the "straight" drilling which has helped me but on smaller models I've had to cut the length of the hinges down to fit. They still appear to be solid with half the gluing surface.

I've used wood glue with the hinges and seems to be great.

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

The Robart hinge points and the "Klett" type hinges are both excellent.

The thing is, that for 40 or 60 size planes THAT ARE NOT SPEED PLANES, CA hinges are just fine. All you need to do is drill a hole in the center of the hinge slot. This way the CA gets to the whole hinge. One other thing (and this dooms MANY CA hinges ), many people use TOO MUCH CA. Use thin CA and you only need 2 or three DROPS for each side of the hinge. This is more than enough to securely bond the hinge to the wood without loading up the hinge to the point the flex part breaks.

rccrazedman

My Feedback: (10)

I was thinking about trying something different for my 3d airplane. I have read and heard of guys sewing the control suraces on with some kind of wire. Can someone tell me what kind of wire to use and typically how much is needed to do a whole plane?

CRFlyer

I prefer to make my own hinges out of fabric covering. Several years ago, a company called granite state used to sell "Iron-on" hinges. Since they have went out of business, I make my own hinges that work as well as what the commercial ones did.

take two strips of fabric covering and sew together back to back with the sticky side facing out. Then just iron on and you have a gapless hinge. I have never had one of these hinges fail, and in my opinion are by far the easiest to install.

I have only used CA hinges on one plane and while they work, I don't think I will ever use them again. They are much harder to work with than the iron on variety.

BBW Walt

My Feedback: (11)

I've gone through a thousand or 2 Robart Hinge Points in my time. Probably the same with the CA hinges also. With the current ARF offerings most built up wings do not have enough wood on the trailing edge to suffiently support the Hinge Point reguardless of all the if's butt's or this type of glue. Using Sonic-Tronics Inc. Ca hinges with an ample amount of watery thin CA will not let go period. Kicker is a no-no and iron heat is another issue with CA hinges. I leave a 3/32 gap in the hinge area to avoid any hinge binding and seal the top and bottom with covering. I use a bunch of them and I know I will never have a problem using these the way I do it. I usually add even double the amount of hinges the chinese install and I throw theres away and use the Sonics. Done properly no issues...Same with the Robart Point Hinges..

reason for edit: removed unnecsasary racist word.

rccrazedman

My Feedback: (10)

i'm sorry CRFyer. i'm not understanding how your doing this hinging. please explain or ilistrate if its easier

Ernie Misner

Well you guys have just formed a club for the non CA hinge folks, but that is about the only people who wrote in!

The CA hinges work perfectly if installed right. They pull out if the slot is loose, or the CA doesn't penetrate. They break if the hinge joint is too tight or if CA has collected along the hinge line; it's crystals can be very sharp.

So to do the job right, quickly, and easily, drill a small hole in the center of each hinge slot for the CA to wick into. Place a pin through the hinges and leave it there while gluing for a perfect space on the hinge line. Then when finished, take a toothbrush with a bit of debonder and scrub the excess CA off of the hinge line. Easy and quick.

Ernie

CRFlyer

Sorry, I'm not a great illistrator, but I will try to describe how to make the iron hinges again.

First cut two strips of fabric covering such as worldtex each about an inch wide and long enough to do one surface such as an aileron. then take the two strips, and put them back to back so the sticky side is out for both pieces. This looks as one strip and now run through a sewing machine putting a seam down the middle of the two pieces to keep them together. This completes the hinge. to use, iron them in place providing a full span gapless hinge that is quick and easy to install.

BBW Walt

My Feedback: (11)

Read post 17....[8D]

kdheath

The Klett hinges are some of the best quality hinges you can get:
http://www.klettplastics.com/pages/3/index.htm
Plus, you can easily make a surface removable by installing the hinges without the pins and running a piece of music wire through the whole mess of hinges.

rccrazedman

My Feedback: (10)

ok thanks you I believe I know what you mean. sometime I guess I could just be so Duh

Ernie Misner

>>> Read post 17....

Hey Klotz, yeah I knew you were there and you made great sense. Thanks. Why are you called the muffler guy?

Thanks,

Ernie

BBW Walt

My Feedback: (11)

Ernie: I repair make and modify model aircraft exhaust systems/mufflers.