Control surfaces gap seal
#2
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RE: Control surfaces gap seal
There are several ways to do this.
Cutting thin strips of monokote is always a good choice.
I use clear monokote for the hingelines.
Sometimes you can get away with a good packaging tape if the surfaces won't see
much oil.
Whatever is used, the purpose is to seal the line.
Get your preferred material to seal the gap.
Unhook the linkage to your surface so it can be totally deflected in each direction.
Clean the area real good with alcohol or something similar if oil is present.
Seal from the underside to hide your work.
If the ailerons are being done for instance, deflect the aileron fully in the up position.
It's easier with help, but I never have that luxury.
Anyway, deflect it up and and hold it with tape, or your hand.
Lay the strip of monokote on the underside, and carefully iron it while the surface is
fully deflected.
Iron it down the best you can and let it free.
Now move it up and down to be sure its free, and to see where you may need to re-iron it.
It's really cut and dry, and once you do a couple of surfaces, you'll get the hang of it.
Depending on your anal level, it's ok to do ailerons, elevator, and rudder.
Hope that helps_bob
Cutting thin strips of monokote is always a good choice.
I use clear monokote for the hingelines.
Sometimes you can get away with a good packaging tape if the surfaces won't see
much oil.
Whatever is used, the purpose is to seal the line.
Get your preferred material to seal the gap.
Unhook the linkage to your surface so it can be totally deflected in each direction.
Clean the area real good with alcohol or something similar if oil is present.
Seal from the underside to hide your work.
If the ailerons are being done for instance, deflect the aileron fully in the up position.
It's easier with help, but I never have that luxury.
Anyway, deflect it up and and hold it with tape, or your hand.
Lay the strip of monokote on the underside, and carefully iron it while the surface is
fully deflected.
Iron it down the best you can and let it free.
Now move it up and down to be sure its free, and to see where you may need to re-iron it.
It's really cut and dry, and once you do a couple of surfaces, you'll get the hang of it.
Depending on your anal level, it's ok to do ailerons, elevator, and rudder.
Hope that helps_bob
#3
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RE: Control surfaces gap seal
Here's what it will look like. You can also use 3M Crystal Clear tape. The name may have changed. They also sell it as a book binder's tape. Bend the surface over as far as possible, crease the tape a bit and work it into the open angle from the bottom out. Some people cut short pieces that fit between the hinges. Your choice.