Workbench Plans?
#1
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From: Mason,
OH
Hi all, new to the forums. Does any know where I can get some plans for a RC workbench. Right now I use a ceiling tile, which does fine, but I'm looking for more. Any information would be great.
#2
Senior Member
Get yourself a large, heavy, sturdy table. I use an old oak library table that's about 6' x 30". It's dead-nuts flat and sturdy enough to hammer and drill on. Cover the top, using contact cement, with ceiling tile turned backwards. Cover that with 3/32" cork sheeting, again using a light application of contact cement. The tile and cork are easily removable as they become worn and damaged from building. You can even use a hollow core door if you brace it well and build a heavy, sturdy frame to attach it to. Look at workbench plans in woodworker's and handyman's magazines for some good ideas, too.
Dr.1
Dr.1
#3
I built these for $50 apiece. Go down to the local big box hardware store and buy a hollow core door. Get the one WITHOUT the hole aready drilled for the door knob. They cost $20--$30 depending on how wide you want. I have a 24" door and 2 of the 32" doors.
Wrap the perimiter with 2x4s and add legs. It's not a bad idea to add a shelf about 24" off the floor. It's handy and helps keep the frame rigid.
Buy some screw-type adjustable feet for it and level it up.
I use 3" drywall screws for the frame. I only put 4 screws on each side and 2 screws on each end. Then slap a piece of 3/4" plywood on the shelf. I used 1.5" drywall screws for that.
When the door gets used up and full of holes and saw marks--just pull the screws from the perimiter and flip the door over. Brandy new building surface.
I haven't got the shelves in yet when these pics were taken, but you get the idea.
How high should my bench be?
Easy:
Stand up and drop your arms down to your sides. Now bend your elbows at a 90* angle and point your hands straight out. Thats the height that you want the table. Maybe a few inches lower--not to exceed 6" lower.
Mine are 42" off the floor.
Wrap the perimiter with 2x4s and add legs. It's not a bad idea to add a shelf about 24" off the floor. It's handy and helps keep the frame rigid.
Buy some screw-type adjustable feet for it and level it up.
I use 3" drywall screws for the frame. I only put 4 screws on each side and 2 screws on each end. Then slap a piece of 3/4" plywood on the shelf. I used 1.5" drywall screws for that.
When the door gets used up and full of holes and saw marks--just pull the screws from the perimiter and flip the door over. Brandy new building surface.

I haven't got the shelves in yet when these pics were taken, but you get the idea.
How high should my bench be?
Easy:
Stand up and drop your arms down to your sides. Now bend your elbows at a 90* angle and point your hands straight out. Thats the height that you want the table. Maybe a few inches lower--not to exceed 6" lower.
Mine are 42" off the floor.
#5
This is the link to the manual for the Great Planes PT-60 kit.
http://www.greatplanes.com/manuals/gpma0119-manual.pdf
GP made the assumption that the person building the kit has zero experience and needs to start from the absolute beginning.
Page 4 has detailed suggestions for a workbench. It is pretty similar to some of the things already suggested.
I still keep my PT-60 manual handy. It has tips for many building steps, tool recommendations, etc. I've only built 2 kits so far and the reference material is priceless.
http://www.greatplanes.com/manuals/gpma0119-manual.pdf
GP made the assumption that the person building the kit has zero experience and needs to start from the absolute beginning.
Page 4 has detailed suggestions for a workbench. It is pretty similar to some of the things already suggested.
I still keep my PT-60 manual handy. It has tips for many building steps, tool recommendations, etc. I've only built 2 kits so far and the reference material is priceless.
#6
I built my new table after reading the information that Paul Johnson (Caffeenman) on his website www.airfieldmodels.com.
This uses magnets instead of pins for building. I made my build table from two Gorilla Racks I already had. The table top is made from two sheets of MDF with a 2 x 2 internal frame and a 4' x 8' sheet of 16 guage cold rolled steel top and all banded with 1 x 4 that I rounded over.
Scott
This uses magnets instead of pins for building. I made my build table from two Gorilla Racks I already had. The table top is made from two sheets of MDF with a 2 x 2 internal frame and a 4' x 8' sheet of 16 guage cold rolled steel top and all banded with 1 x 4 that I rounded over.
Scott
#7
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From: San Antonio,
TX
Here are some simple workbench/table plans using Simpson Strong-Tie system. I think the metal ties are available at most home improvement centers. They create solid work surfaces without alot work. All the cuts are straight and the plans come with both material & cut list. Here are a coupledocumments with tables, shelves and workbenche plans.
These may work well with the suggested previously suggested ceiling tile and cork work surfaces.
http://www.strongtie.com/ftp/fliers/DIY-PROJECTKT04.pdf
http://www.strongtie.com/ftp/fliers/DIY-PROJECT05.pdf
Just another option.
These may work well with the suggested previously suggested ceiling tile and cork work surfaces.
http://www.strongtie.com/ftp/fliers/DIY-PROJECTKT04.pdf
http://www.strongtie.com/ftp/fliers/DIY-PROJECT05.pdf
Just another option.





