Are you using Gorilla glue?
#1
I am wondering how useful of a tool is Gorilla (polyurethane) glue nowadays. Moisture seems to make it cure. It does expand, so that might cause warpage sometimes? That is why they say to clamp it perhaps.
Where are you guys using it?
Thanks,
Ernie
Where are you guys using it?
Thanks,
Ernie
#2

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From: Crestview, FL
Works great for gluing balsa to foam like on the foam fuse profiles or wing skins. The glue foams up and forces itself into the foam so you get a really good bond. Definitely needs clamping because it generates al ot of force when the foaming occurs. If you don't clamp the pieces being glued, they may get pushed around and get of alignment.
Gorilla Glue is great stuff. Just try not to get on your skin. Not easy to get off!
Gorilla Glue is great stuff. Just try not to get on your skin. Not easy to get off!
#3
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From: Formosa, ARGENTINA
Most definetly. For foam to wood contact it cant be beat bc it fills in all the uneven surfaces.
I also really like it for the brace for joining wings. Epoxy is only good if it is touching the surfaces, if you use gorilla glue on that brace it fills in every open space.
Its also unbeatable for robart hinge instalation.
It can make a mess so it takes a little getting used to but I think is unbeatable for certain applications.
Also, I use the elmers pro bond ultimate glue, same stuff as gorilla but a lot cheaper.
I also really like it for the brace for joining wings. Epoxy is only good if it is touching the surfaces, if you use gorilla glue on that brace it fills in every open space.
Its also unbeatable for robart hinge instalation.
It can make a mess so it takes a little getting used to but I think is unbeatable for certain applications.
Also, I use the elmers pro bond ultimate glue, same stuff as gorilla but a lot cheaper.
#5

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Ernie,
I use Gorilla glue to join wings on ARFs, especially if the dihedral brace isn't a tight fit. I have seem wings with a loose fit joined with 30-minute epoxy fail. I looked at one and noticed the brace was covered with epoxy, but one side wasn't touching the wing pocket.
I swab the wing pockets with Gorilla, then dampen the dihedral brace and slide them together. The glue foams and expands to fill any space, making a strong fit. I put my planes through some violent maneuvers and have yet to have a Gorilla glue joint fail.
I also "paint" it into areas on an ARF where I think the "hot glue" doesn't have good coverage. On the Twin Stick, ARF twin, the nacelles are already installed. Just to be safe, I dribbled Gorilla down the wing-nacelle joint. It expands to form a foam fillet, adding a lot of strength.
Another thing it's good for is pinned hinges. It will expand and hold then really well. You do have to check them as it dries to make sure when it expands, it doesn't force the hinge out of the slot. This is especially true with Robart hinges. It'll shove them right out a quarter inch. And you don't crack them loose. It's good stuff.
I use Gorilla glue to join wings on ARFs, especially if the dihedral brace isn't a tight fit. I have seem wings with a loose fit joined with 30-minute epoxy fail. I looked at one and noticed the brace was covered with epoxy, but one side wasn't touching the wing pocket.
I swab the wing pockets with Gorilla, then dampen the dihedral brace and slide them together. The glue foams and expands to fill any space, making a strong fit. I put my planes through some violent maneuvers and have yet to have a Gorilla glue joint fail.
I also "paint" it into areas on an ARF where I think the "hot glue" doesn't have good coverage. On the Twin Stick, ARF twin, the nacelles are already installed. Just to be safe, I dribbled Gorilla down the wing-nacelle joint. It expands to form a foam fillet, adding a lot of strength.
Another thing it's good for is pinned hinges. It will expand and hold then really well. You do have to check them as it dries to make sure when it expands, it doesn't force the hinge out of the slot. This is especially true with Robart hinges. It'll shove them right out a quarter inch. And you don't crack them loose. It's good stuff.
#6

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I started melting vasoline into the hinge point before installing them to keep the foam out. I also run masking tape along the outside of the joint when assembling already covered parts, like arf wing halves, this makes the post foam clean-up much easier. Just peel it off.
#7
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From: HIGHLAND,
CA
Ernie...If you get on your hands, wipe immediately with alcohol and wash your hands...if not they turn black and it will have to wear off. Also..humidity is what sets it off so store it, with the cap tight and wrap the bottle in a plastic bag with rubber bands and it will last a long time. You only need a very little so you should probably experiment until you get the hang of it.
#8
I started using it one SPADS a couple of years ago. I now use it on balsa models for firewalls, landing gear blocks, or any other high stress area.
If you put lotion on your hands, you can wash off any poly glue you have spilled on your skin with soap and water.
If you put lotion on your hands, you can wash off any poly glue you have spilled on your skin with soap and water.
#11
Senior Member
ORIGINAL: Ernie Misner
Hmmm, interesting comments guys. Thanks loads.
Store it in the fridge after putting it in that plastic bag or not?
Thanks,
Ernie
Hmmm, interesting comments guys. Thanks loads.
Store it in the fridge after putting it in that plastic bag or not?
Thanks,
Ernie



said above, excellent glue. Great for repairs too. I use it all the time. Hint you may want to use a wood pecker too.
