Airbrushing
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Airbrushing
i have a funtana 40 that i want to dress up a bit and make a bit more ME. I Have never airbrushed or painted rc airplanes before so i have no idea how to go about it. any tips or techniqes would be greatly appeciated.
primer?
what kind of paint?
clearcote?
can you paint on top of ultracote?
ect...ect...ect
Thank You,
Dave
primer?
what kind of paint?
clearcote?
can you paint on top of ultracote?
ect...ect...ect
Thank You,
Dave
#2
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RE: Airbrushing
You can paint over Ultracote if you roughen the surface first and then clean it. Use either 000 steel wool or Scotchbrite pads to roughen the surface. Carefully clean the covering with a light dish soap and water solution, then clean again with clear water. Don't get the wood underneath wet.
I used to use epoxies a long time ago, but automotive ppg and urethane paints should adhere well. Follow the manufacturers recommendtions about the correct reducers to use. Airbrush techniques are wide enough that entire books have been written about them, so I won't even begin to cover those.
An old book that even today is worth having for reference material is "There Are No Secrets" by Harry B. Higley. You may be able to find it at a hobby shop, or it can be ordered through some of the R/C magazines. Lots of useful and good information about paints and covering.
I used to use epoxies a long time ago, but automotive ppg and urethane paints should adhere well. Follow the manufacturers recommendtions about the correct reducers to use. Airbrush techniques are wide enough that entire books have been written about them, so I won't even begin to cover those.
An old book that even today is worth having for reference material is "There Are No Secrets" by Harry B. Higley. You may be able to find it at a hobby shop, or it can be ordered through some of the R/C magazines. Lots of useful and good information about paints and covering.
#4
RE: Airbrushing
Uhh, beware that some of the paints out there can just about kill you, if look at them for too long.
Use some serious protection or pick a paint that is not too toxic.
Use some serious protection or pick a paint that is not too toxic.
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RE: Airbrushing
I have read with interest your posting about painting over ultracoat. I have just purchased a Hanger 9 Cessna ARF. I had expected to remove the covering and recover, but if there is a safe way to paint,that would be a lot easier. I would appreciate any information that anyone may have that will help. One question that I do have, will this process stop the covering from loosening, and if it does not can it be restretched using heat?
Thanks to anyone who replys,
Ray
Thanks to anyone who replys,
Ray
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RE: Airbrushing
Hi!
Two part automotive acrylic lacquer paints like Sikkens autocryl don't adheare well at all to Oracover (Ultra-cote in the US)plastic films. But boat polyurethane paints will ( International) but they are very messy to spray as they don't dry as fast as the auto lacquer paints do.
Regards!
Jan K
Sweden
Two part automotive acrylic lacquer paints like Sikkens autocryl don't adheare well at all to Oracover (Ultra-cote in the US)plastic films. But boat polyurethane paints will ( International) but they are very messy to spray as they don't dry as fast as the auto lacquer paints do.
Regards!
Jan K
Sweden
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RE: Airbrushing
where can you buy these polyurathane paints at?? How messy? what are they cleaned up with? paint thinner? can they be ran through a very small detailing Airbrush, as well as a larger paint gun? Thanks, Dave
#10
RE: Airbrushing
Spend 30 bucks for a good mask to filter out the fumes. Those masks like dentists and doctors use just don't fill the bill. Some of these fumes can paralize the heart and lung muscles. Please be careful.
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RE: Airbrushing
I've been using PPG paints on my models for the last several year. PPG has a special plastic primer (MP 178) that may help bonding if you have an issue there. Most likely you won't need any primer. Most of what I have shot is two stage, but single stage would work to. Urethane paints, such as the PPGs I use, are probably easiest to obtain at auto body paint supply stores. If you take samples of covering, they can scan and match the paint. Be prepared for sticker shock, good paint does not come cheap. As for thinners, reducers, they should have them at the same store. I suggest to over reduce your paint by about 50%. This allows better control and lay down for thin light coats. Even if they say "do not reduce", go ahead and reduce and try a test. The reducer has MEK as well as other nasties. The paint (single stage) and/or clear coats will be catalyzed. This is very messy and nasty stuff. Please wear eye, hand and most of all lung protection. I had MEK poisoning once (thru the skin, I had a good mask on) and it was not enjoyable. Like mentioned in a prior post, get a good mask with suitable organic solvent filters. And yes, they will shoot just fine from an airbrush. Takes a little time to get good with an airbrush, but it is fun and you can produce impressive results. If you don't already have an airbrush, I'd suggest a good dual action type. Be safe and good luck! Cheers.
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RE: Airbrushing
You say that you have never airbrushed a model before. Silly question, But have you done airbrushing before? Just a tip start with the light colours and work up to the dark colours slowly.
Cheers
Cheers
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RE: Airbrushing
yes i accually am quite experienced in airbrushing, i build plasic models as a second hobby and have always used an airbrush, but only on plastic never on covering or anything.
-dave
-dave