RhyanO

I will be ready to cover the UltraSport 40 soon. I have read on here that some people have
used a product called balsarite, to prepare the wood surfaces to better accept the covering film.
I have a few questions before I start using it though.
Do you apply one coat or several?
Do you sand (what grit?) between coats?
Any other tips about using this product would also be most helpful.

Thanks much for your help.
Ryan

Dr1Driver

RhyanO,

I've never had to use Balsarite, and the one time I did, I was less than impressed. It's a "soft" adhesive, and will let go if hit with more heat after the covering is applied. It's messy, too. My advice is to follow the manufacturer's instructions for their covering, and ask a couple of local "experts" for advice. The only way to learn to cover well is to cover. In this area of R/C, practice definitely DOES pay off.

Dr.1

bbbair

The problem with covering "Bare" balasa wood is the fact that it is a very porous wood (Think sponge) as you sand the wood tiny pieces of fibre are driven into the wood and like it or not you will never be able to get them ALL out... therefore covering material tends to lift.

Balasarite seals the wood and adds an adhesive to make a much better bond between the wood and the covering. I recommend it, and use it on all of my models.

As to the use; one coat works well, no sanding required and use in a WELL VENTILATED area.

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

A product which is VASTLY SUPERIOR to Balsarite is SIG "StixIt".

One thin coat, let dry and the wood itself is going to let go before the covering comes loose. (I found out the ONLY way to get the covering loose without damaging the wood is a liberal application of heat and SLOWLY pull the covering loose while keeping heat on it.)

I like to use this where I have cutouts for windows, etc and it is not feasable to try and "wrap" the covering around the edge.

Make sure you use this in a WELL VENTILATED area.

kdheath

Where I went awry the first time I used it was putting it on straight out of the can. Too thick and gooey. Thinned it about 50-50 with the thinner they sell (though I think there should be something cheaper that would work) and brushed it on like very thin dope. If it wants to ball up, it's too thick. But I got to where I only use it under glueless coverings like Coverlite or Micafilm. It is good idea around windows (as noted) and maybe around the nose to help prevent oil soak, anyplace that is likely to peel. It's also a good final sealer, before recovering, over oil soaked wood that you've cleaned up .

red head

It works especially well if you are recovering after trying to get rid of an oil soaked area. ENJOY !!! RED

tashley

My Feedback: (9)

That's right, thinned fifty/fifty is the only way to go. If it's cut right it goes on smooth and much lighter than uncut.

captinjohn

On the last 2 posts..are you talking Balsarite or the Sig Stixit? Or do you thin both kinds?[:-] Forgot to ask....what do you cut it with? Thankx

tashley

My Feedback: (9)

I use/have used both and imho both need to be cut.

allanflowers

As I recall, Balsarite comes in two formulations, for film and for fabric. The fabric formula is quite thick and messy.
I did a test using the film formula (on fabric) but putting it on both surfaces - versus the fabric formula on the wood only.
The film formula on both surfaces gave the stronger bond.
I will use Balsarite (sanded to 400) to prepare my balsa - for a preliminary fuel proofing - and to harden the wood and prevent dings. I have seen really good covering jobs done without it too.
Allan

red head

I was refering to Balsarite, sorry about that. ENJOY !!! RED

Messerschmitt

My Feedback: (28)

Balsarite is good stuff, like to other guys said, it needs to be thinned. I used it on the tail of a T-28 about 10 years ago (I've used it a lot more than once). I recently decided to glass the T-28. Man, pulling that fabric off of the wood/balsarite, tough job. It pulled some of the wood off with the fabric! I had to sand & fill the sheeting again.

Mike

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

You want to keep the weight on a plane as low as realisticly possible. Balsarite and StixIt applied to the whole airframe is (IMHO) adding weight.

The ONLY time you actually need Balsarite or StixIt is with coverings that do not have any adhesive (or marginal adhesive) such as Coverite fabric, Mica film, Koverall, etc. It is HIGHLY suggested for using over oil/fuel soaked wood (after removing as much of the oil as you can ) and around areas than can not be "wrapped" (window openings, etc).

As for fuel proofing, while some people use it for that, I still prefer thinned epoxy for firewalls and clear Aerogloss dope for other areas (fuel tank compartment, etc). I KNOW those 2 items work, I am not sure about the Balsarite or StixIt for fuel proofing.

cublover

My Feedback: (47)

Thin with MEK....get it at ace hardware...i use it alllllll the time...works wonders with covering..just make sure you get the stuff you need...fabric and plastic kinds...so read the can...Rod

nickj

I agree with Campy. MK and other adhesive-backed films don't come off a properly covered plane. What are you buying with the extra weight?