IM BULDING A PLANE W/ A OS 61FX ON IT W/A COWLING THE PROBLEM IS YOU CANT GET TO THE NEEDLE VALVE TO ADJUST IT I DRILLED A HOLE RIGHT OVER IT BUT ITS NOT SLOTTED SO A SCREWDRIVER IS OUT
DO THAY MAKE A EXSTENTION OR A TOOL FOR THIS????

Isn't there a hole in the needle valve itself for you to insert a piece of 2-56 wire? All the engines I have encountered have this small hole just for that purpose.

look on the side of the needle valve head. there is usually a small allen head screw. On top of the needle valve should be a hole, you can take a piece of pushrod wire and insert it into the hole then screw the allen head screw tight. make sure to bend a ninety degree bend at the end of the wire so you have something to grip when you adjust the needle valve. hope this helps. fyi, there is a jet fly this weekend 1st and 2nd at markham park in sunrise(ft lauderdale area), dont have a map in front of me but I dont think you are to far from here.

You can also cut a slot on the needle valve to accept a standard screwdriver. A cutoff wheel in a Dremel works well. I'd recommend doing this carefully with the needle removed from the engine. Be sure to rinse any debris off before reseating.

an old allen wrench works good also for the handle as well. there is a set screw on the needle to secure the wire.allen wench or what ever you want to stick in the hole.

Probably not the case but on competition scale stuff the norm is to drill and tap the needle and JB weld an allen head screw in and use an allen wrench to adjust the needle, this way you don't see it. Sound like it just a sport model so use the former

Redfox....good idea! Thanks.

While doing some research on this very probelm, I found the following article to be interesting.

I use an alternative method that works well, and doesn't have anything sticking out of the cowl that detracts from scale appearance, nor does it make it difficult to remove the cowl when necessary. I take a short (1/4 or 3/8) 2-56 socket head screw (Allen screw) and file down the threads with a cut off wheel on my dremel tool, just enough that it's a tight fit in the hole on the needle adjuster, and then tighten the setscrew down on it. With the engine mounted, I make a small guide from brass tubing just larger than my hex driver tool's shaft and glue it on a stand-off to the firewall so that it is in line with the needle adjuster and ends just before the inside edge of the cowl. All you have showing is a small hole, maybe 1/8 inch in the cowl where you stick your hex tool. The brass tube guides it right to the little screw in the adjuster, Voila!.