RVM

I've been using a lot of Titebond III recently and I'm wondering what others might think of it.

I used to build exclusively with CA, but now that I'm a bit older and more patient, I am really preferring the aliphatics.

I've found a bunch of posts comparing Original Titebond to Titebond II, but have seen nothing mention Titebond III.

What's the general consensus concerning Titebond III vs. any other wood glue or any other Titebond?

Thanks!

buzzard bait

Well, "consensus" is a pretty good joke on these forums! I like Weldbond--I use it for almost everything including firewalls and sandwiching sheet balsa doublers (which is supposedly a no-no with water based glues), but have not tried any comparisons. It does not sand quite as well as I would like, though it is not bad, and I've never heard of an aliphatic that is really good that way. The gluing instructions are different from Titebond. I'd be interested in hearing from others. Jim

Al Stein

I haven't tried it because I was told that it won't sand as well as Titebond II (which is what I do use -- and it could be nicer for sanding so I don't want to go with anything worse).

Have you tried it head-to-head with anything else yet?

I did run Titebond II vs Weldbond experiments, but not vs Titebond III. (Against Weldbond, by the way, I found the Weldbond (WB) was easier to sand and gave usually prettier results (no glue color showing) -- but WB gave much less penetration because of how thick it is (virtually no penetration at all in my experiments) and as a result the Weldbond was not suitable for real lightweight applications (things like built-up rubber powered models where a whole fuselage is held together by 1/8 square joints... in that situation you've gotta have some penetration to get any strength.)

Anyway, I'd like to hear more on Titebond III as well.

Lightfoot

My Feedback: (1)

I used Ambroid and Duco cements for many years with satisfactory results. I tried Titebond when it first came out on the market and liked it. After hearing so much praise of CA, I decided to try it and build one wing of a biplane with it. It will be my last build. I simply did not like it. I have gone back to Titebond and Titebond II. I have not tried Titebond III and have no idea what the differences are between the three different versions. I would like to hear comments on the strength and how well Titebond III sands.

buzzard bait

Al, those are interesting observations. Maybe the thickness and lack of penetration is why it works fine for sandwiching doublers. Of course, I always clamp them thoroughly, but I suspect a wetter glue would still cause some warping.

One that REALLY penetrates is Superphatic from Hobby Lobby. It is watery thin but it gets sticky very fast and really grips. Unfortunately it is very expensive so I only use it for high stress areas. It also works very well on fiberglass reinforcement as a substitute for CA or Epoxy. You can just dribble on the stuff and it soaks right through the fiberglass, which lays down very nicely with the watery glue, and hardens very strong with much less mess. It is not just a thinned down wood glue. It's downright weird how it goes from watery to sticky to hard.

Jim

RVM

I checked the Hobby Lobby site but didn't see anything about this glue. I'd like to give it a try. Got a link where I can order it?

I did more searching and still haven't found much info on Titebond III.

RVM

Ahh nevermind, found it here.

I think I'm going to give it a try on my next model.

BTW, for those who use toothpicks to apply glue, don't. I use a 50cc syringe with a little curved nozzle on it. Makes a great fillet, albeit maybe a bit thicker than a toothpick would. When finished just rinse with water and maybe a little acetone.

buzzard bait

Let us know how you like the Superphatic. I found that the thin metal tube that comes with it as an applicator clogs easily and when it does it's all over. I was trying to keep it immersed in water between uses, but leave it a minute too long...

So now I use one of those soft plastic tubes with a bulb on the end. Suck some up from the bottle and after use, a tiny screw in the end seals it. If I leave it out some glue dries and plugs the end. I just cut it off and I'm back in business.

Jim

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

I have compared Titebond II and Elmer's Carpenter glue.

The results:

Both adhere equally well and seem to have the same "holding power".

Both clean up the same.

Titebond II is noticeably easier to sand, especially when edge gluing sheets of balsa.

Titebond II is easier to trim any "globs" that seep out.

Elmer's drys faster (amount of time needed to keep clamped), about 1 1/2 hours for Elmer's before removing the clamps/weights vs 4 (or more) hours for Titebond II.

For firewalls and landing gear blocks I still use 30 or 45 minute epoxy.

RVM

Leave it immersed in acetone and you'll be set.

RVM

Hmm I must be the only person using Titebond III at the moment. :/

RVM

Does anyone know where besides Hobby Lobby to get Super Phatic? They seem to be the only distributor for Deluxe Materials, who makes Super Phatic, and who appears to be a UK based company.

Blargh I should have stayed in London. :P

flipstart

I am just about to finish up my first bottle of Titebond III compliments of Franklin-emailed them about a better glue dispenser for Titebond II, they seemed surprised that airplane builders were using their products and did not offer any help on dispensers but sent me a free bottle of glue. I have used used all types of Titebonds for eons. It basically boils down to how much time you need before glue gets to tacky to shift parts into postion. All of their products seems to have about the same strength and original formula may be a little easier to sand.

RVM

Hmm well I'm happy so far with my Titebond III, though I have little except CA to compare it to.

Thanks for the input!

Ernie Misner

Hey, here's a tip that is off topic but might help someone. Don't you just hate trying to sand a balsa joint that has CA in it? Well put a couple of drops of acetone on the CA joint, and bingo, it temporarily softens the CA so that you can get a nice flush sanding job. Much like as if wood glue had been used.

Ernie