Preferred Latex Brand
05-15-2006, 07:42 AM
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Preferred Latex Brand
What are the preferred brands of latex. I'm close to painting my Waco and am looking at either semi-gloss or gloss for the finish.
05-15-2006, 09:50 AM
#2
RE: Preferred Latex Brand
For painting with latex, I suggest using a flat EXTERIOR latex paint. The "cure" time on flat is about 7 - 10 days vs 14 - 21 days for semi-gloss or gloss latex. Any decent (reputable) brand of paint will be fine.
The "shine" I normally determine by my clear coat. For glow RESISTANT clear coats I suggest a water base polyurethane. The water base will not yellow with age, where the oil base poly will start to yellow in about 6 - 7 months. By fuel resistant I mean: Let the clear coat dry/cure for a MINIMUM of 7 days before exposing to glow fuel. Do not let the exhaust residue remain on the plane more than 4 hours or the clear coat will begin to soften.
For a high shine (gloss) use Lusterkote or Ultracoat clear.
I don't know if you need it or not, but here is a basic "How To" for using latex.
Sorry about doing it this way - RC Universe is having "problems" saving the file.
Painting with Latex
First, if you have not done so, I strongly recommend you read the article
by Roy Vallencourt on using latex paint.
http://www.modelairplanenews.com/how_to/latex1.asp
I do disagree with Mr. Vallencourt in a couple of areas. These areas
of disagreement are based on my personal experience using latex.
1. I add 1 1/2 caps of FloTrol per quart of latex paint PRIOR to any
diluting. The Flotrol retards the drying slightly and allows the paint
to level itself.
2. Use ONLY water for thinning the paint. My experience has shown
that using windshield washer fluid gives a slight tint to light colors.
3. My best results with latex have been between 25 psi and 30 psi.
Under 25 psi I don't get the coverage I would like and over 30 psi the
paint starts to have a "dimpled" appearance.
4. I have not had good luck using a heat gun to promote quicker drying.
I know of several people who have had good luck using this technique
though. You can try it and see if it works for you or not.
5. I strongly suggest and highly recommend the blue 3M brand of masking
tape. What you want is the "60 Day Safe Release". This can be
identified by a paper appearance to the tape and on the side of the
wrapping is an adhesive index. You want a 2 dot adhesive rating. The
2 dot adheres reasonably well, yet will not pull up even fresh underlying
paint.
6. Flat latex will take an average of 7 - 10 days to "cure". Semi gloss
and gloss latex take 14 - 21 days to cure. To see if the paint is cured,
press your finger firmly on a hard area of the plane (I use the cowl
area). If a fingerprint remains, the paint is not cured. The
fingerprint will disappear in a day or two.
7. Gasoline powered planes will be fine with the paint as is. Glow
engine powered planes need to be clear coated. I suggest waiting until
the latex is cured before clear coating.
For clear coating I suggest one or 2 sprayed coats of a water base
polyurethane. My personal experience has shown that it is fuel RESISTANT
to 10% nitro and various reports indicate no problems with 15% nitro.
By fuel resistant, I mean if you let the clear coat dry for a minimum
of a week before exposing it to fuel AND you clean your planes at the end
of the day,you should have no problems. If you let the residue sit
overnight on the plane, it will become sticky. If you want fuel proof,
use Ultracote or Lusterkote clear. Oil Base polyurethane is also fuel
proof, but it will start yellowing in about 6 - 8 months. The yellowing
is not that noticable on dark colors, but very noticeable on light colors.
The "shine" I normally determine by my clear coat. For glow RESISTANT clear coats I suggest a water base polyurethane. The water base will not yellow with age, where the oil base poly will start to yellow in about 6 - 7 months. By fuel resistant I mean: Let the clear coat dry/cure for a MINIMUM of 7 days before exposing to glow fuel. Do not let the exhaust residue remain on the plane more than 4 hours or the clear coat will begin to soften.
For a high shine (gloss) use Lusterkote or Ultracoat clear.
I don't know if you need it or not, but here is a basic "How To" for using latex.
Sorry about doing it this way - RC Universe is having "problems" saving the file.
Painting with Latex
First, if you have not done so, I strongly recommend you read the article
by Roy Vallencourt on using latex paint.
http://www.modelairplanenews.com/how_to/latex1.asp
I do disagree with Mr. Vallencourt in a couple of areas. These areas
of disagreement are based on my personal experience using latex.
1. I add 1 1/2 caps of FloTrol per quart of latex paint PRIOR to any
diluting. The Flotrol retards the drying slightly and allows the paint
to level itself.
2. Use ONLY water for thinning the paint. My experience has shown
that using windshield washer fluid gives a slight tint to light colors.
3. My best results with latex have been between 25 psi and 30 psi.
Under 25 psi I don't get the coverage I would like and over 30 psi the
paint starts to have a "dimpled" appearance.
4. I have not had good luck using a heat gun to promote quicker drying.
I know of several people who have had good luck using this technique
though. You can try it and see if it works for you or not.
5. I strongly suggest and highly recommend the blue 3M brand of masking
tape. What you want is the "60 Day Safe Release". This can be
identified by a paper appearance to the tape and on the side of the
wrapping is an adhesive index. You want a 2 dot adhesive rating. The
2 dot adheres reasonably well, yet will not pull up even fresh underlying
paint.
6. Flat latex will take an average of 7 - 10 days to "cure". Semi gloss
and gloss latex take 14 - 21 days to cure. To see if the paint is cured,
press your finger firmly on a hard area of the plane (I use the cowl
area). If a fingerprint remains, the paint is not cured. The
fingerprint will disappear in a day or two.
7. Gasoline powered planes will be fine with the paint as is. Glow
engine powered planes need to be clear coated. I suggest waiting until
the latex is cured before clear coating.
For clear coating I suggest one or 2 sprayed coats of a water base
polyurethane. My personal experience has shown that it is fuel RESISTANT
to 10% nitro and various reports indicate no problems with 15% nitro.
By fuel resistant, I mean if you let the clear coat dry for a minimum
of a week before exposing it to fuel AND you clean your planes at the end
of the day,you should have no problems. If you let the residue sit
overnight on the plane, it will become sticky. If you want fuel proof,
use Ultracote or Lusterkote clear. Oil Base polyurethane is also fuel
proof, but it will start yellowing in about 6 - 8 months. The yellowing
is not that noticable on dark colors, but very noticeable on light colors.
05-15-2006, 07:21 PM
#3
My Feedback: (1)
RE: Preferred Latex Brand
I like interior latex, myself. I use Lowe's American Traditions, it's their top of the line, and is made by Valspar. A clearcoat should be sprayed over it, LustreCote works great. The latex is dry to the touch in a couple of hours, and can be clearcoated in a day. I've painted two planes this way, both look great, and the finish is holding up as good as dope or enamel does. I also use flat, or matte, finish. The clearcoat will smooth the surface and give whatever gloss you want.
05-15-2006, 08:35 PM
#4
RE: Preferred Latex Brand
How about spraying latex over nitrate dope? I'm gearing up to cover a couple of planes with SIG Koverall and plan to fill the weave and shrink up the fabric with a few coats of nitrate. If I rough up the dope a bit will latex work ok?
05-16-2006, 06:41 AM
#5
RE: Preferred Latex Brand
Make sure that you use exterior grade paint. The pigments used for interior paints are not necessarily UV resistant. This means that they may fade faster.
05-16-2006, 05:55 PM
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RE: Preferred Latex Brand
I like Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch - it is an indor/outdor acrylic latex. Sold in 1/2pints and quarts.
It is fule reistant without a clearcoat on it. I regaularly use 15% nitro without a problem.
It is fule reistant without a clearcoat on it. I regaularly use 15% nitro without a problem.
05-17-2006, 06:01 AM
#11
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RE: Preferred Latex Brand
How does the Minwax (and other) polyacrylic clears hold up to gas? If you are NOT using gas then the clear acrylic Wall Mart brand spray paint holds up very well to glow fuel. TEST FIRST though! I would urge caution when choosing a clear coat. Choose one that resists glow and not gas (or the other way around) and you have a model that can only use one type of power plant!
Just my 02 worth!
JEB
Just my 02 worth!
JEB
