glassing for the first time
05-25-2006 | 08:11 AM
#1
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From: Henley-on-Thames, UNITED KINGDOM
glassing for the first time
wonder if anyone can help, I'm looking to glass epoxy a Top Flite p-47, although I'm going to practise on a acro wat first, i have found out which materials to get and how to apply it, but I'm not sure what to do next, i read that you dont rub the fibre glass down, but apply primer first then rub this down and keep going till you get a nice smooth finish, but what is the primer you use? paint primer or another type of primer? and is there a guide any where which could help fill huge gaps i have in my knowledge on this subject?
any help would be appreciated.
any help would be appreciated.
05-25-2006 | 09:20 AM
#2
RE: glassing for the first time
You might want to check out Dave Platt's Black Arts video series. He has a three volume series called Building and Fiberglassing Techniques. There are some websites that cover the topic as well.
http://www.daveplattmodels.com/Videos/index.htm
http://www.arts-hobby.com/fiberglassing.htm
http://www.airfieldmodels.com/inform...nish/index.htm
The method I used on my current build and first epoxy fiberglassing, was to use primer. I used an automotive primer in a spray can, Duplicolor High Build Sandable Primer. I would spray a coat of primer, then wet sand with 320 grit until the high spots of the glass weave showed. I would repeat this process until I got a smooth and even surface. For gaps and dips that are too large for primer alone to fill, I used a couple of methods. On the smaller ones, I used spot putty that you can buy in a tube at the auto parts store. I applied it with a small piece of plastic. Those fake credit cards that come in the credit card offers in the mail work well for this. Be aware that this putty is pretty heavy. For larger gaps or dips, I used a mix of epoxy and microballoons.
Scott
http://www.daveplattmodels.com/Videos/index.htm
http://www.arts-hobby.com/fiberglassing.htm
http://www.airfieldmodels.com/inform...nish/index.htm
The method I used on my current build and first epoxy fiberglassing, was to use primer. I used an automotive primer in a spray can, Duplicolor High Build Sandable Primer. I would spray a coat of primer, then wet sand with 320 grit until the high spots of the glass weave showed. I would repeat this process until I got a smooth and even surface. For gaps and dips that are too large for primer alone to fill, I used a couple of methods. On the smaller ones, I used spot putty that you can buy in a tube at the auto parts store. I applied it with a small piece of plastic. Those fake credit cards that come in the credit card offers in the mail work well for this. Be aware that this putty is pretty heavy. For larger gaps or dips, I used a mix of epoxy and microballoons.
Scott
05-25-2006 | 10:52 AM
#3
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
RE: glassing for the first time
To minimize your weight gain, I suggest the polyurethane method of glassing. I have included a basic "How To" on glassing this way. (Sorry to do it this way. RC Universe is acting up AGAIN and won't let me upload files.
Glassing with Water Base Polyurethane
1. Sand the model with 220 grit and remove any highs/lows you may find.
Fill as needed with lightweight filler and sand.
2. Give the wood 1 thin - medium coat of wood sealer. I use the
commercial stuff. What this does is twofold - it stops the balsa
from soaking up too much of the poly and at the same time protects
the balsa from the water in the polyurethane.
3. When dry, sand lightly with 220 to remove the "fuzzies".
4. Some people say to apply a light coat of 3M #77 adhesive to the
wood at this point. I have found that this is more trouble than it
is worth since if you have a wrinkle, the complete piece of fiberglass
has to be removed to straighten it out.
I prefer to lay the fiberglass cloth on the part/area to be covered and
smooth it out using a SOFT brush. Brush FROM THE CENTER TOWARDS THE
EDGES. The static electricity usually holds it in place. I normally
use 1/2 oz (.5 oz) or 3/4 oz (.75 oz) fiberglass cloth.
5. Using WATER BASE polyurethane and a FOAM brush, start at the center
and brush towards the edges of the fiberglass. All you want to do is
stick the fiberglass to the balsa, so excessive amounts are not needed.
Any additional pieces of fiberglass should overlap each other about
1/2 - 3/4 inches.
Let this dry. DO NOT SAND !!
Brush on another coat of polyurethane. This coat can be a little heavier.
Let this coat dry. DO NOT SAND !!
6. Mix up some polyurethane and microballoons. I use 1 part
microballoons to about 5 parts polyurethane. This will be on the thick
side.
Brush on a medium coat of this mixture and let dry.
7. Wet sand this with 220 or 320 grit paper. BE CAREFUL, AS YOU CAN
VERY EASILY SAND RIGHT THROUGH THE FIBERGLASS.
8. Check the fiberglass carefully to insure the weave is filled. If
the weave is not completely filled, repeat step 6 and 7.
9. SPRAY a coat of water base polyurethane on the plane and let dry.
DO NOT SAND !!
10. Spray a THIN coat of primer on the plane. When this is COMPLETELY
dry, block wet sand with 220 or 320 grit as much of the plane as
possible to highlight any highs/lows you may have missed during your
sanding/prep. The areas that can not be block sanded, CAREFULLY sand
by hand. (TIP: CA some of the wife's/girlfriends fingernail file boards
together. Wrap the sandpaper around them so you can block sand in tight
areas. The CA helps prevent the boards from disintergrating in the water)
Fill any low areas with a lightweight filler and sand when dry.
Apply a THIN coat of polyurethane to these areas.
When the poly is dry, repeat this step until you are satisfied that all
the highs/lows are removed.
11. SPRAY a thin coat of polyurethane on the plane. When dry, spray
the primer.
12. When the primer is dry, you can apply your rivets, panel lines and
other detailing desired.
13. Now you can spray your paint.
Glassing with Water Base Polyurethane
1. Sand the model with 220 grit and remove any highs/lows you may find.
Fill as needed with lightweight filler and sand.
2. Give the wood 1 thin - medium coat of wood sealer. I use the
commercial stuff. What this does is twofold - it stops the balsa
from soaking up too much of the poly and at the same time protects
the balsa from the water in the polyurethane.
3. When dry, sand lightly with 220 to remove the "fuzzies".
4. Some people say to apply a light coat of 3M #77 adhesive to the
wood at this point. I have found that this is more trouble than it
is worth since if you have a wrinkle, the complete piece of fiberglass
has to be removed to straighten it out.
I prefer to lay the fiberglass cloth on the part/area to be covered and
smooth it out using a SOFT brush. Brush FROM THE CENTER TOWARDS THE
EDGES. The static electricity usually holds it in place. I normally
use 1/2 oz (.5 oz) or 3/4 oz (.75 oz) fiberglass cloth.
5. Using WATER BASE polyurethane and a FOAM brush, start at the center
and brush towards the edges of the fiberglass. All you want to do is
stick the fiberglass to the balsa, so excessive amounts are not needed.
Any additional pieces of fiberglass should overlap each other about
1/2 - 3/4 inches.
Let this dry. DO NOT SAND !!
Brush on another coat of polyurethane. This coat can be a little heavier.
Let this coat dry. DO NOT SAND !!
6. Mix up some polyurethane and microballoons. I use 1 part
microballoons to about 5 parts polyurethane. This will be on the thick
side.
Brush on a medium coat of this mixture and let dry.
7. Wet sand this with 220 or 320 grit paper. BE CAREFUL, AS YOU CAN
VERY EASILY SAND RIGHT THROUGH THE FIBERGLASS.
8. Check the fiberglass carefully to insure the weave is filled. If
the weave is not completely filled, repeat step 6 and 7.
9. SPRAY a coat of water base polyurethane on the plane and let dry.
DO NOT SAND !!
10. Spray a THIN coat of primer on the plane. When this is COMPLETELY
dry, block wet sand with 220 or 320 grit as much of the plane as
possible to highlight any highs/lows you may have missed during your
sanding/prep. The areas that can not be block sanded, CAREFULLY sand
by hand. (TIP: CA some of the wife's/girlfriends fingernail file boards
together. Wrap the sandpaper around them so you can block sand in tight
areas. The CA helps prevent the boards from disintergrating in the water)
Fill any low areas with a lightweight filler and sand when dry.
Apply a THIN coat of polyurethane to these areas.
When the poly is dry, repeat this step until you are satisfied that all
the highs/lows are removed.
11. SPRAY a thin coat of polyurethane on the plane. When dry, spray
the primer.
12. When the primer is dry, you can apply your rivets, panel lines and
other detailing desired.
13. Now you can spray your paint.
05-26-2006 | 10:20 AM
#5
RE: glassing for the first time
I used Campy's method my Top Flite 182 several months back. Worked fantastic, and the fiberglass, poly, primer, paint, and clear added less than a pound to the whole airframe!
