How flat is flat enough for a workbench? I built a bench out of 2x4 and a hollow core door. It was as flat as flat could be as far as I could tell, but there were some tiny imperfections. I've noticed even the highest grade levels/straightedges have visible warps in them...

I left my stand out in the sun for quite a few days and it warped, so I flipped it over and it warped back to what appears to be level. I take my 36" metal yardstick, which is pretty damn straight, and see a few places, maybe 1/32" - 1/16" (at most) low in it, and I'm wondering just how concerned I should be, especially since I use Celotex for my top and I'm sure it isn't exactly perfect.

How do you folks who have done so, gotten perfectly flat worksurfaces? Does anyone manufacture a workbench that would suit a modeler's needs?

hollow core doors arent stable I built mine out particel board it cost around $10.00 got it at lowes and they did all of the cuting for me.
Danny

Yeah I got a sheet of MDF but I cut it into some pieces to build another workbench with (which didn't work out quite as I had hoped hehe). If I intend to do that I'll need another sheet of it.

I'm wondering why the highest quality straight edges/leves are visibly not straight when you look down the length of them.

A solid core door will give you a better chance of having a flat surface that will remain that way. A particle board core is good. I've had this type of bench top for years and it has remained flat. There is enough beef @ 1-5/8" thick to suspend it on a couple of saw horses and not get any bow. Solid core is definitely more money if buying new, but a hollow core door will have more unpredictable movement if left on its own.

My workbench is a heavy-duty shelving unit split in two to make a 2 x 8 ft bench. On top will be a piece of MDF, and on top of that will be a sheet of Homasote. Shims will be used to make it perfectly level as well as perfectly flat, checked with a 5 ft level. To build straight and true models, your workbench has to be as straight and flat as possible.

This is the shelvin unit I'm using: It is fantastic.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...618&lpage=none

What is homasote and where did you purchase it?

I looked at something similiar, but I didn't get it because the shelves would not sit at the same height. Also, getting a single piece of MDF across the whole length would not have worked because of the steel crossbracing. I think that's the same one. How did you get yours to come together and work right?

Your 5 ft. level is probably not straight. I looked at a bunch the other day and if you look down the length they are visibly warped. Every single one. My 36" steel ruler has a more true straight edge.