timfarrar

Charlie :

The new way of glueing (CA) is fast and easy but there is something to be said about the old way. I believe it is lighter and your parts dont have to be cut so perfect to get a good bond.

There can be a little gap and Ambroid or Titebond II dosent care.

But by coencidense I just learned of a good trick with Titebond II.

When sheeting your wings paint it over your ribs, spars, and what have you where the sheeting is to be. And then paint it on the sheeting where it will contact the ribs, spars, and stuff.
Let the glue dry and then iron the sheeting onto the wings.

I think this is a cool tip, I cant wait to try it out.
Actually the guy that told me about it said, "yellow alphatic wood glue" from the hardware store but my first thought was of Titebond II.
Dont you think thats what he meant ?

SEEYA, TIM

Charlie P.

Titebond II is a PVA (polyvinyl acetate) glue, as is Elmer's & other white glue. I really don't know if the properties with a aliphatic (fat based) yellow glue when "re-sticking" with heat will work. I'd test it on some scrap several times before I committed a model to it. Titebond I ("Original Wood Glue") is aliphatic and TB III is another PVA. I've heard some disappointing results with the Titebond III, which I think sacrifices some other qualities for waterproofness.

I do use CA for framing up the wing ribs & spars. Just too fast and easy to ignore.

I pre-fit and mark contact spots with a pencil then use a soldering acid brush to paint glue on the rib and contract points of the sheeting, and then "T" pin the snot out of it as I work it around the curve. I wipe the outside with a wet towel to clean up any excess glue that oozes out. Wiping the outside of the sheet with just a bit of household ammonia on a towel or spritzing with some in an atomizer helps it curve without snapping, too.

bhady

In the process of building a GP Super Aeromaster. This is the first kit after about 25 years out of the hobby. so far so good. Power will be a Saito 100. Assembled a few ARF's to get back into the hobby and in the air relatively fast (Sig LT40, Tower Kaos GP Easy Sport)
bhady

mobflier

I am currently building a T-Craft 20 kit from Great Planes. Check it out on my profile. I also built a Great Planes electric Cub, also available for review. One ARF in the wings (Lanier Mariner 40) and I have the plans for the Curtiss Wright that was in Model Aviation about 3 months back. So many planes so little time.

dan203

I am scratch building a Florio Nifty-Fifty with a little larger than normal control surfaces and ailerons.

bipeguy03

I Just got started on my Carl Goldberg Suhkoi, Going with a Super Tigre G-2300. Just got the tail feathers built

jmb52760

Great Planes Giles G-202.

OK kit for die cut.

ben.roper

I'm building an American Eagle B-24 liberator. I'm hoping to have it finished for Bomber field in September 2007.

Göran

I just finish my FG-1D Top Flite giant kit.
Powered with four-stroke Laser enginer v-twin 360 or 60cc.
Methanol and runtronic ignition system.
Sliding canopy.


Now I´m building Gary Allen 33% Jungmaister.

TopThumbs

We'll (my 12 year old son an I) will be building a Goldberg Eagle II w/ a OS .70 Surpass as his first trainer.
Then on to completing an old Goldberg Ultimate w/ a Saito 1.20 and repairing some hanger rash on a Super Hots .60 w/ a K&B .65 Sportster

Bill

dicknadine

howdy Ed. still trying to find and build all of Roy Clouth's ODDBALL designs. latest is the Rotor Wng. 16" dia, just about ready to fly @ 16oz. have 2 more sets of plans coming. one of those, that you order and then they tell it will be a ew weeks they now have to order prints from someone else. right now its stay in the house- out of the rain and cold, the flying field requires floats on your planes. dick we have not been back to Bay St. Louis in a long while and getting etchy fingers to go back for a visi, now that they have let me drive the car by myself again. its rough getting older-- NOT OLD-- just older-- hell-- 83 1/2 young, ain't old. dick