os 40 on canard
#2
Hi suzonka
I have been flying a Canard I designed for about 4 years. For anyone to help you we need more information about your plane. What are the various specs, including weight, wing span, chord, etc? Generally, a pusher engine cannot cool itself while on the ground. I get into the air withing 30 seconds of engine start. If more time is needed to tune the engine I replace the prop with an identical tractor prop and tune all I want. What is the location, vertical and horizontal, of your fuel tank relative to the carburator valve?
I have been flying a Canard I designed for about 4 years. For anyone to help you we need more information about your plane. What are the various specs, including weight, wing span, chord, etc? Generally, a pusher engine cannot cool itself while on the ground. I get into the air withing 30 seconds of engine start. If more time is needed to tune the engine I replace the prop with an identical tractor prop and tune all I want. What is the location, vertical and horizontal, of your fuel tank relative to the carburator valve?
#3
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (7)
ORIGINAL: Villa
Hi suzonka
I have been flying a Canard I designed for about 4 years. For anyone to help you we need more information about your plane. What are the various specs, including weight, wing span, chord, etc? Generally, a pusher engine cannot cool itself while on the ground. I get into the air withing 30 seconds of engine start. If more time is needed to tune the engine I replace the prop with an identical tractor prop and tune all I want. What is the location, vertical and horizontal, of your fuel tank relative to the carburator valve?
Hi suzonka
I have been flying a Canard I designed for about 4 years. For anyone to help you we need more information about your plane. What are the various specs, including weight, wing span, chord, etc? Generally, a pusher engine cannot cool itself while on the ground. I get into the air withing 30 seconds of engine start. If more time is needed to tune the engine I replace the prop with an identical tractor prop and tune all I want. What is the location, vertical and horizontal, of your fuel tank relative to the carburator valve?
The tank is even with the needle valve wing spand is 48 inches x 6.5 inches, wieight is 3.5 lbs front wong is 34 x 5 inches trike landing gear . its the canda goose.
#4
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From: portland, OR
I'm gonna ask a stupid question.........Your picture shows a regular tractor prop, not a reverse pitch pusher prop...you are not try to run that engine backwards are you? Just asking...
#5
Hi suzonka
You did not mention how far away the fuel tank is. On my Canard the center of the fuel tank was about 15 inches away from the carburator. I was getting irratic RPM during various manuevers. I added a 2 once fuel tank right next to the engine and solved all fuel problems. Muffler pressure connects to the main tank; main tank outlet connects to small tank pressure connection; small tank outlet connects to carburator. Your .25 engine, if in good condition and tuned right should handle a plane that size. I have a pusher puller with two .28 magnum engines. In the winter I can take off with just one engine, front or back. I use 9 x 6 props made by APC. The pusher prop is marked 9 X 6P. The P is for pusher. Make certain your pusher prop is not mounted backward. The efficiency drops tremendously. Let me know how it goes.
You did not mention how far away the fuel tank is. On my Canard the center of the fuel tank was about 15 inches away from the carburator. I was getting irratic RPM during various manuevers. I added a 2 once fuel tank right next to the engine and solved all fuel problems. Muffler pressure connects to the main tank; main tank outlet connects to small tank pressure connection; small tank outlet connects to carburator. Your .25 engine, if in good condition and tuned right should handle a plane that size. I have a pusher puller with two .28 magnum engines. In the winter I can take off with just one engine, front or back. I use 9 x 6 props made by APC. The pusher prop is marked 9 X 6P. The P is for pusher. Make certain your pusher prop is not mounted backward. The efficiency drops tremendously. Let me know how it goes.
#6
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (7)
ORIGINAL: anonymouse
I'm gonna ask a stupid question.........Your picture shows a regular tractor prop, not a reverse pitch pusher prop...you are not try to run that engine backwards are you? Just asking...
I'm gonna ask a stupid question.........Your picture shows a regular tractor prop, not a reverse pitch pusher prop...you are not try to run that engine backwards are you? Just asking...
#7
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (7)
ORIGINAL: Villa
Hi suzonka
You did not mention how far away the fuel tank is. On my Canard the center of the fuel tank was about 15 inches away from the carburator. I was getting irratic RPM during various manuevers. I added a 2 once fuel tank right next to the engine and solved all fuel problems. Muffler pressure connects to the main tank; main tank outlet connects to small tank pressure connection; small tank outlet connects to carburator. Your .25 engine, if in good condition and tuned right should handle a plane that size. I have a pusher puller with two .28 magnum engines. In the winter I can take off with just one engine, front or back. I use 9 x 6 props made by APC. The pusher prop is marked 9 X 6P. The P is for pusher. Make certain your pusher prop is not mounted backward. The efficiency drops tremendously. Let me know how it goes.
Hi suzonka
You did not mention how far away the fuel tank is. On my Canard the center of the fuel tank was about 15 inches away from the carburator. I was getting irratic RPM during various manuevers. I added a 2 once fuel tank right next to the engine and solved all fuel problems. Muffler pressure connects to the main tank; main tank outlet connects to small tank pressure connection; small tank outlet connects to carburator. Your .25 engine, if in good condition and tuned right should handle a plane that size. I have a pusher puller with two .28 magnum engines. In the winter I can take off with just one engine, front or back. I use 9 x 6 props made by APC. The pusher prop is marked 9 X 6P. The P is for pusher. Make certain your pusher prop is not mounted backward. The efficiency drops tremendously. Let me know how it goes.
Thanks again , I had a header tank like the helicopters use and it still didnt work and it was a 2oz and now my tanks about 10 in away from the carb at the center. I even used larger fuel lines to allow more fuel to flow.
#8
Looking at the photo of your plane it looks as if the engine is mounted high. Is it a lot higher that you fuel tank that would cause your fuel flow problems as well as lean conditions that could be the root cause of you overheating. If the centerline of your tank is below the spray bar on your carb this would explain a lot of you issues. If it is try going to an inverted mounting, I do believe this was Andy Lennon's preferred method of mounting an engine and this would cure your problems.
P.S nice job on your plane.
P.S nice job on your plane.
#9
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (7)
ORIGINAL: iron eagel
Looking at the photo of your plane it looks as if the engine is mounted high. Is it a lot higher that you fuel tank that would cause your fuel flow problems as well as lean conditions that could be the root cause of you overheating. If the centerline of your tank is below the spray bar on your carb this would explain a lot of you issues. If it is try going to an inverted mounting, I do believe this was Andy Lennon's preferred method of mounting an engine and this would cure your problems.
P.S nice job on your plane. say this may sound crazy , but its a chance to try it out, what if I mount the tank temperally on the top wing so its way above the carb line and if it works then Ill do something differrnt ,I cant lower the engine any more because of the ground clearance.
Looking at the photo of your plane it looks as if the engine is mounted high. Is it a lot higher that you fuel tank that would cause your fuel flow problems as well as lean conditions that could be the root cause of you overheating. If the centerline of your tank is below the spray bar on your carb this would explain a lot of you issues. If it is try going to an inverted mounting, I do believe this was Andy Lennon's preferred method of mounting an engine and this would cure your problems.
P.S nice job on your plane. say this may sound crazy , but its a chance to try it out, what if I mount the tank temperally on the top wing so its way above the carb line and if it works then Ill do something differrnt ,I cant lower the engine any more because of the ground clearance.
#10
It might flood with the tank was that high but a worth a shot.
If you were to mount it inverted your prop should be mounted at the same level as it is now only the head pointed down which would lower your carb about 1/2 an inch or so. Sorry if I am missing something but it looks like you engine is behind the fuse so that is why I mentioned changing you engine mounting to an inverted setup.
Either way I feel that you real problem is with the tank level relative to your engine, is there any way you could raise your smaller tank to the spray bar level? I do not think the distance is your problem but the tank height try it first with a regular prop (for cooling) while the plane is secured on the ground. If you can adjust it and it runs in all ranges from low to high with no problem try it in the air.
You will be surprised at how much the tank level can effect the performance of a models engine. I would go with a bit longer fuel ine if it would allow you the proper height for the tank level. The mid point of the tank should be at the spray bar in your carb.
Another option is to go with a side winder mount the head pointed to the side this will also lower your carb.
Also keep in mind going with a 40 size will add more weight and require more ballast up front which will add to your wing loading and reduce the performance of your plane.
If you were to mount it inverted your prop should be mounted at the same level as it is now only the head pointed down which would lower your carb about 1/2 an inch or so. Sorry if I am missing something but it looks like you engine is behind the fuse so that is why I mentioned changing you engine mounting to an inverted setup.
Either way I feel that you real problem is with the tank level relative to your engine, is there any way you could raise your smaller tank to the spray bar level? I do not think the distance is your problem but the tank height try it first with a regular prop (for cooling) while the plane is secured on the ground. If you can adjust it and it runs in all ranges from low to high with no problem try it in the air.
You will be surprised at how much the tank level can effect the performance of a models engine. I would go with a bit longer fuel ine if it would allow you the proper height for the tank level. The mid point of the tank should be at the spray bar in your carb.
Another option is to go with a side winder mount the head pointed to the side this will also lower your carb.
Also keep in mind going with a 40 size will add more weight and require more ballast up front which will add to your wing loading and reduce the performance of your plane.
#11
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (7)
ORIGINAL: iron eagel
It might flood with the tank was that high but a worth a shot.
If you were to mount it inverted your prop should be mounted at the same level as it is now only the head pointed down which would lower your carb about 1/2 an inch or so. Sorry if I am missing something but it looks like you engine is behind the fuse so that is why I mentioned changing you engine mounting to an inverted setup.
Either way I feel that you real problem is with the tank level relative to your engine, is there any way you could raise your smaller tank to the spray bar level? I do not think the distance is your problem but the tank height try it first with a regular prop (for cooling) while the plane is secured on the ground. If you can adjust it and it runs in all ranges from low to high with no problem try it in the air.
You will be surprised at how much the tank level can effect the performance of a models engine. I would go with a bit longer fuel ine if it would allow you the proper height for the tank level. The mid point of the tank should be at the spray bar in your carb.
Another option is to go with a side winder mount the head pointed to the side this will also lower your carb.
Also keep in mind going with a 40 size will add more weight and require more ballast up front which will add to your wing loading and reduce the performance of your plane.
It might flood with the tank was that high but a worth a shot.
If you were to mount it inverted your prop should be mounted at the same level as it is now only the head pointed down which would lower your carb about 1/2 an inch or so. Sorry if I am missing something but it looks like you engine is behind the fuse so that is why I mentioned changing you engine mounting to an inverted setup.
Either way I feel that you real problem is with the tank level relative to your engine, is there any way you could raise your smaller tank to the spray bar level? I do not think the distance is your problem but the tank height try it first with a regular prop (for cooling) while the plane is secured on the ground. If you can adjust it and it runs in all ranges from low to high with no problem try it in the air.
You will be surprised at how much the tank level can effect the performance of a models engine. I would go with a bit longer fuel ine if it would allow you the proper height for the tank level. The mid point of the tank should be at the spray bar in your carb.
Another option is to go with a side winder mount the head pointed to the side this will also lower your carb.
Also keep in mind going with a 40 size will add more weight and require more ballast up front which will add to your wing loading and reduce the performance of your plane.



