I have tinkered with my evo 46 for weeks now. tried nearly every thing under the moon and have now decided to trash this motor!!!!!

So far I've had no problem with mine. I had a issue on a very hot and humid day on the last flight about a week ago, but I corrected that with a new glow plug. They say that the engine doesn't need break in, but after the first 11 flights... it's good to change the glow plug anyway. Don't forget to check the Carb Seat... sometimes they don't come from the factory real tight.


I heard rumors that the .46 Evo runs even better without the baffle in the exhaust. I'm waiting to hear fom someone if it works, and or if it would damage the motor in any way.



Luftwaffe Oberst
Aero Modelers Club
AMA District II
Pulaski, NY

Just had my first run in with an Evo .46 today. Engine would not run for more that 2 min, and die. Checked evrything we could think of then some one asked what fuel we were using...answer 15% nitro...Suggestion was to change to 10% nitro, we did, and engine runs as good as any I've seen...........

Yes, that's all I ever run... 10%. Someone suggested to me try a hotter plug in this forum... I might try that if my Evo motor ever acts up again.



Luftwaffe Oberst
Aero Modelers Club
AMA District II
Pulaski, NY

Please don't throw in trash. Send it to me. I have 4 (3-46"s and 1 - .61) and I love them. Never no trouble. I run 15% Cool Power.

so other than complaining what was the question you needed answered.otherwise just return the engine to the factory for service.

Irglnman is this your first glow engine? If so dont give up hope on it, see if someone else can get it to run.

Take it off your plane and try it on a different plane or on a test stand.

The statement Evo engines stink is just not accurate. I have never had one but lots of folks are pleased with them. You could have gotten a lemon or your just missing something simple to get it to run.

Peter, We changed plugs from the original to an A-3 and it made no difference, not saying it won't for someone else, but the fuel change fixed our problem....Flew the plane, 1st flight for 10 min with no problems at all....after the fuel change.

Ok,
First of all this is an engine off a hanger 9 Arrow trainer. It went caput a year ago . so the engine seems fine just a broke needle valve so i ordered one from horizon and installed it on a 40 size twist minus all the trainer stuff that came one this engine. I removed the baffle and got some more horse power but in order to get the tank level with the carb i had to raise it all the way to the top of the fuse. no padding on top of the tank. now here is where the probs come in.The motor runs like a scalded cat when it is in level flight doing circles and figure eights. but roll it on its back it will dead stick going in a down line it will dead stick . I have set the plane on a bench and ran nearly a gallon of fuel throught it trying to figur the cause of the prob. I get a few bubbles in the lines some from the tank some seem to come from the needle valve but most part i think it is caused by vibration due to the tank situation. Now I have installed three different tanks. three different sets of complete fuel lines. Different clunks. different clunk lines .none of which is binding at the back with full freedom of movement. when I test the plane at half throttle and simulate inverted flight just like it would do in the air the engine bogs down and dies. but I see no bubbles when I do this. What is my problem?

I am running Byron 15% a fox hot plug tried os#8 and some other plug but the prob still is there. I have tried different fuel but it was 15% too.

Man...beg borrow or steal some 10% and try it.........it's your last chance...don't give in to the gremlins........trust me........ If it doesn't work I'll pay for shipping the engine to me.......

If the engine is dying on down lines or inverted flight, its probably just starved for fuel. I've seen this before. People want a nice clean installation, so they make the fuel supply line very short. When the clunk comes out of the fuel in the tank, the only fuel available is the fuel in the line. Try putting a loop in the supply line between the tank and the needle valve. This will give you a longer reserve. Also make sure you're reducing your throttle on the down lines.

Also check your low speed mixture. You may be too rich on the low end. When you go inverted or on downlines, the increased fuel supply pressure further richens your low end, which may be causing the engine to load up and dead stick.

Finally, you might want to try the setup in the tank where the vent line has a clunk as well. This supposedly (I've never tried it) results in a more even fuel supply pressure.

Brad

Hmmm, If you put a clunk on both the carb and vent line......won't you need a third line to vent during filling? Might just try that just to see what difference it makes, if any....

Hummmmm these are great suggestions.which I will try but I use hayes brand tanks and they only have one input for a clunk. I can try a Dubro or Sullivan tank and see if that helps. Keep the suggestions comming I will try anything that I haven't tried yet but they are getting slim.

If something works, let us know. It's not the engine itself for sure. It's something in the fuel supply or as someone else suggested, maybe a tad too rick on the low side.

I've never had any trouble with an Evolution engine - from their small one up through their 45GT....and about the only thing that stinks about them is the smell of Nitro + Castor

Well I guess I had to let of some steam there .I am sure they are just as good as any other brand out there but the thing of it is no one in our club or even the hobby shops know alot about these motors and troubleshooting them is a headache. I am going to clean the carb real good this week retune it and see how that works.

sucks to hear the engine isn't good for ya! you can always send it to me!!

I'm sending mine back to hangar 9. First flight ...overheated and seized the piston. So much for the stop screw which prevents over-leaning....

Was messing with a club member's Evo 45 this weekend at our fun fly. I found that the evo's low speed needle is EXTREMELY sensitive. About 15 degrees from really over-rich to quit on throttle-up lean. Also very easy to turn (didn't need a screw driver), so I think vibration could allow it to loosen.

Motor seems also to be prone to becoming loaded up on start-up. The club member I was helping was often too quick to reach for the needle valve to lean it out, when really it just needed 30 seconds or so to burn out the load-up and come on song.

Nice strong engine from what I saw, tho, and aside from the touchy low end needle, seemed friendly enough. I do prefer my OS 46AX, tho.

J

YA KNOW i HAVE THE SAME PROB WITH THIS MOTOR.UNTIL I GO INVERTED AND IT DEAD STICKS tHE LOW END NEEDS VERY SMALL MOVEMENTS AND IT LOADS UP ON IDLE BUT. i THINK i AM SUCKING AIR SOMEWERE .WHEN I invert the plane , with it at half throttle most of the time the engine dies like it gets too much fuel or goes to rich but in all other bench test I am running at top notch settings. only when I go inverted.

To me there is only 2 engines worth buying 1. OS and 2. Saito. It is not worth it to try these other brands (i have and regret it) I stick to Japanese only ! The same with cars.

My Evo engine runs better than any O.S. that I've had do to doing these things. [8D]



Luftwaffe Oberst
Radio Aero Modelers Club
AMA District II
Pulaski, NY

Seen a couple that run as good as any OS. Seen no make that runs better. Seen some special purpose engines that run better than general purpose and that is apples and oranges.

But EVO's don't all suck. Some do. Most don't.

Their idea of an already broken in, factory adjusted engine with limiting devices has some merit. The idea is wasted for flyers who are smart enough to seek out experienced teachers, but it works for those who don't.

I've never seen any make of engine that was a guaranteed loser, and that includes the blister packed McCoys from the 60s. But the only guarantee of getting a cheap engine to work and work for awhile is to put it into the hands of a smart, experienced modeler. Or maybe just blind luck will do it too.

There are good engines and there are cheap engines. And the ones that are predictably good are usually not cheap. And often are marked OS.

Very true and OS are user freindly. Once a person learns to learn the tricks , the cheap motors often have more power than OS. and fly just as reliable once the learning curve is over.