Is this to much engine?
#1
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From: Arlington,
TX
I have a great planes easysport .40, it now has a .045 super tiger on it now, but I cant keep it running, and untill I learn more about these engines I dont want to fool with it. I do have a O.S. .061 fx thats new and not being used, would it be too much? Heres a pic of the plane I have.
#4
There is no such thing as too much power! That's what the throttle is for 
Seriously, the Easysport should handle the .61 with no problems. But, do not dive the plane at full throttle! It may flutter and come apart.[X(]
Doug

Seriously, the Easysport should handle the .61 with no problems. But, do not dive the plane at full throttle! It may flutter and come apart.[X(]
Doug
#6
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From: Sterling , CO
SCOTT42
Sound like a fuel feed problem, Check your fuel lines and tank, you may end up with the same problem with the .61 and all that work for nothing[:@]
Sound like a fuel feed problem, Check your fuel lines and tank, you may end up with the same problem with the .61 and all that work for nothing[:@]
#7
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From: Fowlerville,
MI
ORIGINAL: SCOTT42
Hum, I see a project starting tommorow. I was thinking it would be ok, but Ive still have a lot to learn.
Hum, I see a project starting tommorow. I was thinking it would be ok, but Ive still have a lot to learn.
#8

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I had an Easy Sport with an OS .61SF on it. It was a great plane. I changed out all the controls to 2" wide ailerons, 3" wide elevators and a 4" wide rudder. A 12-7 APC worked best for me. I did install a longer main & nose gear for prop clearance. I also flipped the dihedral brace over to get anhedral. Excellent flying plane.
#10

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SCOTT42
If that SuperTigre is a ringed engine, it may very well not be broken-in yet. I had all lkinds of issues with my ST-G90 until I read that it wasn't fully broken in yet. Most of our R/C engines will break in with maybe 2-3 tanks of fuel through them (being generalistic here). My ST-G90 took a whole gallon of fuel through it to break in. Simply stated, the rings needed a lot of running to properly seat themselves. Most of the sport R/C engines are non-ringed, so they break-in much quicker. There is a ST group here on RCU, they can probably help with instructions. Theres actually an instruction set on how to properly break in an ST engine. I'll see if I can find it and post the link for you. It saved my life, and my ST! Once my G90 was broken-in it runs like no other engine. The patience it took to complete the break-in has paid dividends!
Hope that helps,
-Jorden
If that SuperTigre is a ringed engine, it may very well not be broken-in yet. I had all lkinds of issues with my ST-G90 until I read that it wasn't fully broken in yet. Most of our R/C engines will break in with maybe 2-3 tanks of fuel through them (being generalistic here). My ST-G90 took a whole gallon of fuel through it to break in. Simply stated, the rings needed a lot of running to properly seat themselves. Most of the sport R/C engines are non-ringed, so they break-in much quicker. There is a ST group here on RCU, they can probably help with instructions. Theres actually an instruction set on how to properly break in an ST engine. I'll see if I can find it and post the link for you. It saved my life, and my ST! Once my G90 was broken-in it runs like no other engine. The patience it took to complete the break-in has paid dividends!
Hope that helps,
-Jorden
#11
ORIGINAL: twistedskies
Needle settings are off on your tigre.
Needle settings are off on your tigre.
#12
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The carb has 2 needles. Both need to be correctly adjusted by the user for the engine to run properly at high speeds and to idle and transition consistently at low speeds. They are not factory adjusted. The only other explanations for not continuing to run are air leaks in the fuel supply system, and fuel foaming in the tank due to a lack of vibration isolation.
#13
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From: Arlington,
TX
ORIGINAL: perttime
That is the first thing that came to my mind. Too lean, I suppose. Or have you tried adjusting it?
ORIGINAL: twistedskies
Needle settings are off on your tigre.
Needle settings are off on your tigre.
#14
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Turning the big needle "in" leans the engine. "Out" richens. Try turning the big needle "out" 1/2 turn and see what happens. Then try another 1/2 "out" and see what happens. If the rpm starts dropping off then you need to turn the big needle "in". When turning the big needle "in" the rpm will increase. It will increase to a point where it will start to drop again, eventually dropping off far enough to stop the engine due to a lack of fuel and too much heat. The initial drop off is the lean point. Too lean actually. Hit the lean point, back the needle "out" until the rpm increases again, then back the needle "out" about 1/4 turn or so more to be on the rich side.
Next comes the low needle adjustment but that can wait until you do the high side. If the engine idles fine and doesn't bog when you advance the throttle then the low is ok. If not then you have some experimenting to do at mid to low rpm levels with the low needle. Takes time and trial and error.
Next comes the low needle adjustment but that can wait until you do the high side. If the engine idles fine and doesn't bog when you advance the throttle then the low is ok. If not then you have some experimenting to do at mid to low rpm levels with the low needle. Takes time and trial and error.
#15
It's only too much power when you can't slow down enough to land. With too much prop on the front, even at idle the prop will move too much air to slow it down and land.
Don't ask.............. [sm=lol.gif]
Don't ask.............. [sm=lol.gif]
#16
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From: Sun Prairie,
WI
I have the same plane. mine is an arf. i already have the o.s. .61 on it. i run a 13x6 apc prop. I have done no reinforcement but i have removed the two side pieces of wood next to the engine. I previously had an o.s. .50 on it and had vibration problems. with this set up, the plane will hover, snap, knife edge, and do most other aggressive maneuvers. ive ran this setup for almost a year now,and the only failure ive had with this plane was an aileron coming unglued. a definite hot rod but gentle when you want it to be. i added a little weight in the tail to balance, but wing loading is still super low.
#17
I don't think your engine will self destruct if you try opening the needle... though getting hands on help and instruction is a great idea in any case. With the other engine you would have to get your needle settings right too.
You are making sure the plane is well restrained when running it? And keeping your hands and hair out of the prop?
People usually also point the plane up when checking their needle settings. Pointing the nose up may reduce fuel flow and make the engine go too lean and stop. It will not run right if it is too rich either.
If the engine is new, you should also run it in. During running in you should definitely not go too lean: you want to give the engine all the lubrication you can.
You are making sure the plane is well restrained when running it? And keeping your hands and hair out of the prop?
People usually also point the plane up when checking their needle settings. Pointing the nose up may reduce fuel flow and make the engine go too lean and stop. It will not run right if it is too rich either.
If the engine is new, you should also run it in. During running in you should definitely not go too lean: you want to give the engine all the lubrication you can.
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From: raymond,
WA
ST engines are also very picky about the spray bar being in the right position. If they're not then your in for some headaches. Make sure the holes in the spray bar are pointed straight down the venturi, straight towards the crank shaft. this one little thing will solve a lot of problems then you'll find that little ST to be a real sweet heart. or send it to me and I'll find an AT-6 to strap behind it.





