Polycrylic and Polyurethane
03-29-2008, 11:56 AM
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Polycrylic and Polyurethane
I will be using a clear coat soon over Solartex and I am considering trying out Minwax Polycrylic, which I believe is similar to oil based polyurethane. But, I don't know for sure if the polycrylic is the better choice. Any input on this would be appreciated.
Thanks,
DaveB
Thanks,
DaveB
03-29-2008, 01:56 PM
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RE: Polycrylic and Polyurethane
I thought the polycrylic was a water based version of polyurethane. Is that so, or is the polycrylic a different product? If it is a different product, is the water based polyurethane fuelproof?
Thanks,
DaveB
Thanks,
DaveB
03-29-2008, 07:22 PM
#7
RE: Polycrylic and Polyurethane
Polycrylic (and MOST other waterbase polyurethanes ) are FUEL RESISTANT to 10% nitro (many report no problems with 15% nitro) with the following caveats:
1. Let the poly dry for a MINIMUM of 7 days before exposing to glow fuel residue. Raw glow fuel, as with MOST paints, you take your chances.
2. Do not let the residue remain on the finish over 4 hours. At ABOUT 4 hours the finish will begin to soften.
1. Let the poly dry for a MINIMUM of 7 days before exposing to glow fuel residue. Raw glow fuel, as with MOST paints, you take your chances.
2. Do not let the residue remain on the finish over 4 hours. At ABOUT 4 hours the finish will begin to soften.
03-30-2008, 01:39 AM
#9
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RE: Polycrylic and Polyurethane
I had a very bad learning experience with glow fuel and paint and let me say that automotive paint wont even hold up to glow fuel. [
] Basically you don't want to get raw glow fuel on anything and you definitely don't want to let it sit on anything.
] Basically you don't want to get raw glow fuel on anything and you definitely don't want to let it sit on anything.
03-30-2008, 01:46 AM
#10
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RE: Polycrylic and Polyurethane
A while back, I did a test with both Polycrylic and standard oil-based Minwax poly. I let each dry in the sun for over a week, placed a small puddle of Cool Power 15% on each for an hour, then wiped it off. The oil-based wasn't even phased by the fuel, but the Polycrylic was soft and sticky and never hardened again after that. Though this is in California, so maybe the formulations are different here because of the strict environmental laws.
I have also used flat black spray paint from Sears (their own brand) that is fuel proof to 15% - not bothered by raw fuel. But not sure about the other colors in their line of paint - might be worth a try for a top-coat.
I have also used flat black spray paint from Sears (their own brand) that is fuel proof to 15% - not bothered by raw fuel. But not sure about the other colors in their line of paint - might be worth a try for a top-coat.
03-30-2008, 06:39 PM
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RE: Polycrylic and Polyurethane
I have tried about every clear coat available in spray can and only one I trust is the Min wax solvent based Polyurethane ( in bronze can). Available in flat, semi-gloss and high gloss. It does yellow with age, so don't use it over white, otherwise it works up to 15% nitro. I am sure there may be some exotic clears out there but for local availability, PU is my choice from experience.
03-31-2008, 01:30 AM
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RE: Polycrylic and Polyurethane
I cleared my stick with Valspar Water Based exterior Spar Polyurethane. (got it at Home Depot)
It holds up well but will make the finish tacky if exhaust residue is left for a few hours. It'll dry up again in a day.
The flight box is oil based Polyurethane.... No problems at all with that stuff..
Polycryllic.. let to cure for 1 week.. 15% glow fuel took it right off in less than a minute.
It holds up well but will make the finish tacky if exhaust residue is left for a few hours. It'll dry up again in a day.
The flight box is oil based Polyurethane.... No problems at all with that stuff..
Polycryllic.. let to cure for 1 week.. 15% glow fuel took it right off in less than a minute.
03-31-2008, 09:16 AM
#13
RE: Polycrylic and Polyurethane
ORIGINAL: flipstart
I have tried about every clear coat available in spray can and only one I trust is the Min wax solvent based Polyurethane ( in bronze can). Available in flat, semi-gloss and high gloss. It does yellow with age, so don't use it over white, otherwise it works up to 15% nitro. I am sure there may be some exotic clears out there but for local availability, PU is my choice from experience.
I have tried about every clear coat available in spray can and only one I trust is the Min wax solvent based Polyurethane ( in bronze can). Available in flat, semi-gloss and high gloss. It does yellow with age, so don't use it over white, otherwise it works up to 15% nitro. I am sure there may be some exotic clears out there but for local availability, PU is my choice from experience.
I have had excellent results with "Dupli-Color Acrylic Clear Engine Enamel". I have only been able to find it in auto parts store and it is only available in gloss. After letting it dry for a week, it passed a raw fuel test (10% nitro left on the surface for 2 - 3 hours) and the exhaust test (held the test panel in the exhaust stream of a running 46 for 15 minutes - distance about 12" from the muffler)
03-31-2008, 09:18 AM
#14
RE: Polycrylic and Polyurethane
ORIGINAL: AviationNut
A while back, I did a test with both Polycrylic and standard oil-based Minwax poly. I let each dry in the sun for over a week, placed a small puddle of Cool Power 15% on each for an hour, then wiped it off. The oil-based wasn't even phased by the fuel, but the Polycrylic was soft and sticky and never hardened again after that. Though this is in California, so maybe the formulations are different here because of the strict environmental laws.
I have also used flat black spray paint from Sears (their own brand) that is fuel proof to 15% - not bothered by raw fuel. But not sure about the other colors in their line of paint - might be worth a try for a top-coat.
A while back, I did a test with both Polycrylic and standard oil-based Minwax poly. I let each dry in the sun for over a week, placed a small puddle of Cool Power 15% on each for an hour, then wiped it off. The oil-based wasn't even phased by the fuel, but the Polycrylic was soft and sticky and never hardened again after that. Though this is in California, so maybe the formulations are different here because of the strict environmental laws.
I have also used flat black spray paint from Sears (their own brand) that is fuel proof to 15% - not bothered by raw fuel. But not sure about the other colors in their line of paint - might be worth a try for a top-coat.
MOST paints, unless they are a 2 part paint (epoxy type), do not do well with raw glow fuel.
