I am fairly new to RC and have had a small amount of experience with kit-building. I had a recent poor experience with CA hinges on an ARF kit from World Models. The kit is wonderful and my bad experience is mostly due to my poor technique in gluing in the CA hinges supplied with the kit. I have decided though that I don't care for CA hinges . At best they seem to be too stiff. I have bought various hinges , slotters etc. over the last couple years. I bought a Dubro hinge slotter kit and I believe that was a serious mistake. I have a new Harry Higley hinge slotter that I haven't used yet ( and may never use as you read this post)but I believe it is the best available for slotted-type hinges . Much more precise etc. ! But now to my point. The hinge issue was very confusing because there are so many options (& opinions). After exhaustive research , reading various posts etc. I decided to order some Robart hinges , both 1/2A & 1/8 sizes and the Robart Drill Guide. Most people seemed to give them rave reviews. I also ordered the similar Great Planes hinges in two sizes. I read on Airfield Models that most ARF's use 3/16" balsa and also that the Robart 1/2A size will work with 3/16" balsa. When I received my hinge order I noticed that the smallest Great Planes hinge was slightly larger than the Robart 1/2A's so I went with the 1/2A's. I debated about getting a small hobby drill press because of my worry about getting the holes drilled accurately. I cut the botched CA hinges from my ARF kit and took the plunge and drilled the holes using only the drill guide and a pin vise with a #47 drill bit (about .078" and it went almost flawlessly. Initially, I was worried about tearing through the 3/16" balsa because there was so little room for error with the #47 bit. My firse hole was slightly off-center but I took more care afterwards to hold the pin vise straight and had no problems. Tear-through was never an issue. The completed hinged elevator is light-years better than the CA hinge job.For some reason Robart does not make a drill guide bushing for the 1/2A hinge but I read (again on Airfield Models) that you could use 1/8" brass tubing inserted in the smallest bushing that came with the guide . Couldn't find brass tubing locally but found some 1/8" plastic tubing that fits like a glove. It went very well without this new plastic bushing but I am confident that the next effort will be even easier. I intend to replace any CA hinges included in kits (and scratch-builds) in the future with Robart s. I would have saved a lot of money if I had gotten the Robart s way back when. I am a solid Robart convert. I hope this helps someone out there.I'm still tring to find a source for a fine-point grease pencil etc. that will write on plastic covering and be removable. Would appreciate anyone's thoughts on this. BTW-I have no financial interest in Robart . I wish I did. P.S. This is a copy of an earlier post in general electric forum. Since then I have had a 1/2A Robart that has come apart. This occurred when I was turning the hinge to get it perpendicular to the control surface before gluing. The 1/2a's have no metal hinge pin like the larger ones. I am going to try a small Great Planes version as it has a metal hinge pin which is surely much stronger. The only problem is that is is slightly larger and may be a problem in the 3/16" balsa. I wish the Robart 1/2a's had a metal hinge pin.
M.B.
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Breadman

For marking on covering use a Sharpie. It leaves a very clear mark and erases cleanly with a paper towel with a splash of rubbing alcohol.

Dave

I've been using CA hinges for a while & NEVER had any trouble with them. I've had some pretty hard crashes & never had one fail. When first installed you need to " break " then in to loosen them up, but that's about it. They might not be good on giant scale, but the have worked grea on my 40 & 60 size planes.

CA hinges have worked for me for some time, but I have since 'seen' the light of the Robarts and will use them from now on.
Nothing against CA, I think they are the easiest hinge available, and the simplest IMO.
But I feel a 'hinge' actually requires a pivot point to be properly functional, not relying on flexing mylar and cloth.

You wouldn't hang your workshop door on mylar would you??

I use a dry erase marker to mark my covering. It sticks fairly well and all you have to do to get it of is wipe it with your thumb or a rag.

I also use it to trace on the covering when I am cutting out designs.

Thanks to all for the great suggestions ! I'll try the Sharpie and the dry-erase marker. I got a private e-mail from a nice gentleman that suggested using the Great Planes Slotting tool. Anyone had any experience with this on 3/16" balsa? I've read several posts about this tool that weren't too positive but obviously not all feel this way.
MB

I've used Tyvek as hinge material with great results. It's tough as nails!

I have never had great luck with anything that has the Great Planes name on it and that includes my hinge slot machine, both sides are supposed to cut, mine only operates one side?? Yes, I have checked it out and replaced the blades.
I have used other peoples machines and they work quite well, GP just hates me for some reason.
I use different sizes and types of hinges for different planes and reasons. I posted photos yesterday of 3 types of slot cutting guides that will help keep the hinges centered, these work very well.
Hinge pins are the easiest to use but not always the best, if the plane isn't set up to use them they can be A problem and weaken the LE & TE and may not have enough wood to be glued in very well.
I don't use CA hinges anymore but there really isn't anything wrong with them. Like anything, if someone shows you how to do something it's much easier, CA hinges are easy to install and work very well, I think Mike or Ken have an instruction thread on how to install them?

Are those Robart 1/2a's in your photo? Have you had good luck with them holding up?