JIMARRINGTON

I just recently tried to use Sig Koverall. Used Stix-it to put it down. I really liked the way it shrinks. But I had problems with cutting the edges after it was applied to the model. They wanted to unravel and I could not get a clean cut. Does anyone know the secret to getting a good clean edge using Koverall?

Thanks
Jim

stang

My Feedback: (1)

Have you sealed it with a nitrate dope yet?

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

Don't worry too much about the "fuzzy" edges. Trim as close as you can to the stuck-down edge, and when you dope the material, the fuzzies will either get glued down by the dope, or get a bit stiffer. When you get a couple of coats of dope down the first sanding will eliminate the threads sticking up. Just use a fine grit paper, at least 240-300. Once you get the fuzzies gone, and a couple more coats of dope on, you won't even be able to find the seam.

bps

My Feedback: (3)

I have found also that if cut with a hot knife you will pull the fabric less which results in a cleaner edge, not perfect but cleaner. Once you have begun the doping process you can sand lightly and remove the edge almost completely. I used a latex sealer and glue named mod podge from Michaels Craft stores and thinned it with water. First step is to completely seal the airframe and sand smooth. Next adhere the Koverll using the same mixture just as if using dope to adhere the fabric only no smell! After that dries you can use a covering iron to smooth down the edges, sometimes I do this step at the same time the fabric is adhered. Next trim the fabric with a sharp knife, you will use a lot of exacto blades during this step. Use covering iron to iron down any edges and then fill the weave with the thinned out solution applied with a foam brush if your using the latex. Dope will melt the foam brushes as will the Stix-It. Takes about 3 coats to completely fill the weave using the latex. Then your ready for latex paint. Did I mention, NO SMELL!!!!!!!!!!!!! I love this latex and Koverall.

Stickbuilder

Jim and all,

The secret to getting clean cuts with Koverall, is to use a new single edge razor blade. They are much sharper, and hold their edge longer than will a #11 Xacto blade. You will soon learn how to let the cutting edge of the blade run along just under the apex of the leading edge of the wing, and make very smooth cuts. As soon as you notice that the cut is beginning to fuzz, change to a new blade. You will then need to seal the cut edge with Nitrate dope, and after you apply sufficient coats to seal the weave (minimum of 3) you will have to look very hard to find the seam.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

JIMARRINGTON

Thanks everyone.

I used Minwax waterbased polyurathane to seal the weave on my airplane. It took six coats. I actually have some of the Modge Podge. Never thought of using it to seal Koverall. It can be bought in the craft section of Wal Mart as well. It is usually used to glued puzzles togther.

I did not have much luck sanding the edges of the Koverall on my model. The fabric just seemed to fuzz. I might have been using to coarse a grit though. I think I was used 150 or 220. A lot of the unraveling took place when I ran my iron over the edges to seal it down.

I guess I will need to do more experimenting on my next build.


Jim

JIMARRINGTON

Here is a pic of the model I was referring to. It is a Dynaflite SE5a kit. After the Koverall was applied, I primed it. Then gave it a light sanding and airbrushed it with Wal Mart acrylic craft paint thinned with windex. Final coat was interior/exterior Minwax Polyurathane from a spray can.

Jim