Making pull pull hardware?
#1
Thread Starter
Moderator
I've done some searching about pull pull setups and have learned a lot about geometry and tension. What I haven't learned is whether there are some cost effective alternatives to buying the hobby shop pull pull hardware. I know about the steel fishing leader, but how about attachment hardware or homebuilt control horns for the surfaces? I'm flying a .60 size bird with standard torque servos, so there's no need to go heavy duty with it.
#2

My Feedback: (1)
I have on occassion done a few on old timers and and the larger old timer pictured has pull/ pull on both elevator and rudder primarily for CG consideration Also is a picture of my Schneider Sport with Pull/Pull done this way.
I use brass threaded couplers like these:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD893&P=7
and flatten the large end then drill a small hole to thread the Spyder wire of about 16 pound test and tie. Drip a small bit of ca on the knot and your done. This is not steel wire it is some sort of synthetic, just like string but very durable.
John
I use brass threaded couplers like these:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD893&P=7
and flatten the large end then drill a small hole to thread the Spyder wire of about 16 pound test and tie. Drip a small bit of ca on the knot and your done. This is not steel wire it is some sort of synthetic, just like string but very durable.
John
#3

My Feedback: (8)
Lately I've been looping the wire right through a standard control horn (just one one end) and crimping. Saves a few parts and a little weight. Obviously it comes at the cost of less adjustment and a more permanent approach.
I was going to try some left over fuel tubing for crimps on my next small project.
I was going to try some left over fuel tubing for crimps on my next small project.
#4

My Feedback: (-1)
I use the steel plastic coated fishing leader, I have it in different tests for different size planes. I buy Dubro rigging couplers with the hole on one end and the threads on the other. They come in 2-56 or 4-40. For the holding/crimping pieces I have a lot of small aluminum and brass tubing. I just cut about 1/4 inch pieces, thread the line and crimp it. I then use a soldering iron and heat the crimp tube and it melts the plastic coating a little inside so the line will never slide out. It's been 10 years sense I bought any of the pre made kits and all my planes have had pull/pull rudder. You can make the back tiller from 4-40 all thread and buy the Dubro fiber ends . There are a lot of ways to do it. Like Joe mentioned, I have laced the wire through the horn and wrapped the wire and heated the plastic with a match enough to melt it together.
#6

My Feedback: (-1)
ORIGINAL: lilhachet
If ten bucks is to much, your in the wrong hobby.lol
If ten bucks is to much, your in the wrong hobby.lol
#7
Thread Starter
Moderator
I got it done. The packaged Dubro setup was $20 per surface, while my homebrew was about $5 per surface. I also have adjustability after it's all put together, which is a plus. I posted some pics in the "Tips and Techniques" forum for those interested.



