JollyPopper

My Feedback: (6)

You can soak the whole engine, preferably disassembled, in RC fuel for awhile to soften the gunk, then use a tooth brush and Dawn Power Dissolver to clean it. You can buy the Dawn at Wally World. There are other methods that work also, but this one works as well as any I've found.

BigMax is correct about the head shim. It is almost impossible to see as it fits very snugly in the groove that the liner fits into. It is bare aluminum so it looks like part of the head, but you will be able to get the point of a knife under it and pop it out if it is there. If it is missing and you want one, I have one that I could give you. I'm running my compressionless engine without it hoping that would help compression. He is also correct about the thrust washer. You will need one if you get your engine running, especially if you use a starter. It is simply a very thin flat washer between the drive washer and the engine case that acts as a bearing surface. I MIGHT have an extra one of these also, can't remember for sure, but if you find you can get your engine running by aligning the sleeve, I will look and see if I have one. I was only guessing as to the position of the locating pin as it has been some time since I had the head off mine. It could very well be closer to 3 o'clock than 4 o'clock, but it is on the intake side of the engine, not at the rear.

I'm not suggesting you scrap your engine because I believe you have a good chance of getting it running, but if you do decide to sell it as a parts engine, I would be interested in it. Again, if you get it running decently, I have a head shim and maybe a thrust washer. We'll get one of these turkeys running one way or another.

Funny thing, you respond to Max and my brain engages as my name is also Max and it is not that common a name. Any time I see or hear it, I think someone is talking to me.

Keep us posted.

Max

big max 1935

My Feedback: (9)

I clean engines with ZIP-STRIP paint remover . Tried other stuff but keep coming back to it . A tooth brush (my wife's), 00 steel wool & hot soapy water.Never hurt one yet . The DAWN POWER cleaner or what ever you call it works OK but it will turn some aluminum black if left on too long.
Take a file & knock off the high spots on the head & piston top before you put it back together & before you clean it .Max H.

Johnkpap

Hi Sean

Sorry to hear that the engine is in a bad way,

Some times you do get Ripped of on $bay but I have done alot better than I have lost.

I always try and buy Engines from Sellers with a Feedback higher than 100 on used engines, I also try and buy engines that you can still get parts for.

My latest one is a HP Gold Cup 61.....Advertised as in Very good condition.....NOT !!!..... someone has been at the prop hub with pliers and cleaned it up with sand Paper [X(]

the backplate was drilled for a pressure nipple .....None of this was advertised as a Feature!!!

I have Ordered $30 worth of parts from MECOA and it should be as good as new.

It was still a good deal as a HP Tuned Pipe in great condition was included

At $80.00 AUST plus parts it is a very good deal :- A new HP ringed Engine with pipe and Muffler would cost over $250 USD plus international Shipping

Best Wishes

Johnkpap

Redwulf__34

Hi Guys,
Didn't' have time to pull the sleeve last night. I'll get that done soon. I hope your right bigmax. It really doesn't look mis-aligned. I'm looking at the ports. There is only one port in the sleeve that can line up with the exhaust. And it's lined up as perfectly as it could be. The other 3 ports are higher or lower. But I'll still pull the sleeve and have a look anyways. The shim is there in the head still. I did find it.

Jolly, i got the magnet on the piston and sleeve. its aluminum. No sticky the magnet to it!

Sean

Redwulf__34

Random thinking happening here today.................just a thought........the piston in this engine doesn't have a front and back does it? Could the piston be in backward and that causing it to act like it's running backward when it's running forward?? ?? ? ? ? ? ? ?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The piston will not make it do that but the sleeve will

If the sleeve is reversed the sleeve will not align up in the exhaust properly

JollyPopper

My Feedback: (6)

Redwulf, if you take the liner out of the engine you will then be able to take the piston out also. The side of the piston that has been running on the exhaust side will be noticeably darker than the intake side unless the guy has run it both ways. I'm not sure what would happen if you reversed the piston, but I suspect the difference would be very little.

MILDBILL-RCU

My Feedback: (6)

You have said that the exhaust port looks lined up & that there are 3 other ports that are higher & lower than the one lined up with the exhaust. The exhaust port in the sleeve is the highest port (closest to the top) in the sleeve. As the piston comes down after firing a air-fuel charge, it must be able to relieve the pressure & dump the exhaust into exhaust outlet in the case of the engine. This must be the first port to open as the piston comes down & must be aligned with the exhaust port in the case. Next will be the transfer ports that open. Then the next to open is the boost port, which is the lowest port in the sleeve. The picture is looking into mine & the ports you see are as follows, The one your looking through is the exhaust (highest one), next is the transfer port on the left, (middle height ports, 2 of them, there is a second transfer port in the sleeve & is out of the picture). last port (& lowest one) is the boost port & it is the one in the back towards the right in the picture. Hope this helps. Bill

aerowoof

sos pad with warm water and elbow grease will look like new in a few minutes

Redwulf__34

Hi Bill,
Thats the way I see mine. Exhaust port is the highest. It looks lined up. But it could be off a few thousands or something. I'm going to get the sleeve pulled and look for the alignment pin. That's the only way to know for sure. I haven't been able to locate my lpg yet!

Sean

MILDBILL-RCU

My Feedback: (6)

If yours does look like that & the highest port is lined up in the exhaust port, then as an "off the wall" check, have you tried running this without the muffler on the engine? It almost souds like the exh. could be plugged. Pull the muffler apart & check for being plugged up with something. I have seen the baffle plate hole reduced down to 1/8" diameter with crud building up on some engines that have been stored improperly. Not that you did it, but the seller might have & then tried to use it again, could'nt get it running right, & the sold it as a good running engine that you bought. I would check muffler before I pulled the sleeve if you say the ports are lined up properly. Bill

Redwulf__34

Bill, You gave me an excitement there for a minute! I thought maybe that could be it. But it's not. I pulled the exhaust apart and all is clean and clear.

I've still not pulled the sleeve but I'm sure it's fine. The exhaust port is lined up very well and there is also a "little" tab/pin that is visible in the alignment groove from the top. You can't really see it in the photo I posted but there is a little pin there. There is an excessive amount of oil inside the engine and the muffler but that should be an issue. I think someone did what they should have and put a good bit of oil in it when they stored it.

Anyway, I'll get the sleeve pulled and clean her up. Then reassemble and see what happens.

Sean

big max 1935

My Feedback: (9)

This is probably not it but I did run across it once . A modeler sent me a engine that he had cleaned in his wife's kitchen sink with hot soapy water . He left for a nature call & his wife noticed that the muffler he had laid on one of her place mats was leaking oil out of it . To solve HER problem she stuffed a piece of paper towel in it . The muffer was pretty clean so he didn't wash it . Guess what happened when he tried to run it ! I didn't have the heart to charge him to FIX it but the shipping both ways was over $10.00.
Lesson learned ,never trust a woman around model stuff & that goes for cats & dogs also. Max H.
Guess some one already sent in about the muffler but I thought mine was a better lesson ! Max

big max 1935

My Feedback: (9)

If you find the sleeve is in properly ,check the piston & sleeve for burnt on oil . That will really mess the running up.
I buy & sell quite a few engines & almost every one I completely tear down & clean, clean , clean! Have sent them all over the world to a lot of happy buyers . You just got a " as is engine" & a bum deal. Max H.

Redwulf__34

I'm still here guys. Just got sidetracked with some things. I've got another engine coming for parts. I still haven't pulled the sleeve yet but that's going to happen soon I hope. Everything inside looks good max. From what I can see anyway. No burnt oil in the sleeve or on the exposed area of the piston. However there is a worn area on the front end of the sleeve.

We'll get it pulled in the next few days and I'll see what i have.

Sean

Redwulf__34

Howdy Guys!
I pulled the sleeve tonite. The engine is completely torn down now. I don't see anything wrong with it. My alignment pin is on the top. There is a groove in the top of the sleeve too. She was lined up right. I don't see anything obviously wrong. No burned on oil etc. She is pretty clean inside.

I may try to clean her up a little since it's all torn down. But like i said. She isn't bad. I'll post some pictures tomorrow.

Could it be possible that the missing shim behind the prop was causing my problem? It had a lot of slop in and out.

Sean

big max 1935

My Feedback: (9)

The shim behind the thrust washer just comes into play when you use a electric starter & push against the prop. Once it starts the washer does nothing . If the crank pin is chewing up the rear cover the aluminum particles will take out the glow plug quick. The crank pin should not hit the cover with the shim gone unless the front of the case is really worn or the rear of the thrust washer worn.
I guess I would put it back together & try it again . Think I would give the spray bar a good look as this seems to be the start of things. Max H. []

JollyPopper

My Feedback: (6)

Redwulf, going back to your post #15, you mention lots of play around the crankshaft. Do you mean end play or lateral play? A little end play would not excite me much, especially without the thrust washer being there, but lateral play would raise a red flag. If you can move the crankshaft up and down or sideways enough to feel it, it would likely be enough to draw air in. You would then have an air leak just as if the back plate were loose or you had a pin hole in the fuel line. That could cause major problems in running. Just something else to look at.

Redwulf__34

Hi Jolly,
No Lateral play at all. She is good that way. Then end play isn't enough to allow the pin to go back and hit the rear cover either.

Going to clean her up and try again. The spray bar is brand new. That doesn't meant somethings not wrong with it. I'll have another look around at it.

I've got another engine due to arrive today. Maybe I can mix and match some parts. I forgot to bring my camera in today. I'll post the pics later on.

Thanks for hanging in here with me guys!
sean

Redwulf__34

Hi guys,
pictures as promised. You can see a few things here. You can see the shape of the sleeve...not bad, no burnt oil etc. you can see the piston, just a little black spot, you can see the pin that sticks up from the case and also the grove at the top of the sleeve for alignment. There is a decent amount of where that shows up on the front (prop side) of the sleeve from the piston. I suppose it's normal wear?

Sean

big max 1935

My Feedback: (9)

If it were mine I would clean EVERYTHING down to what it looked like when new. get all the brown & black stuff off. Then put it back together. Can't hurt it as it won't run now. Steel wool , alcohol & lots of elbow grease. Max H.

pimmnz

Piston and top of sleeve looks really rough from the photos, looks just like a too lean run, and you really should look at sourcing a new piston/liner. Do not try steel wool on the piston, and be real careful with the liner, the fit of these two items is critical to the longevity of the motor. Those long scours on the piston are not a good look. If you can feel them with a fingernail, it's too deep and you will need to replace the items.
Evan, WB #12.

JollyPopper

My Feedback: (6)

I've been trying for over a year to find a piston/liner assembly for one of these engines. The only thing I have been able to come up with so far is running engines that guys are trying to sell for new price. I have not seen one for under $70.00. Even if Redwulf could find one at the right price, he would still have the same problem. He would still have a .60FP that doesn't run. Both he and I need to find a broken engine with a good piston/liner in it at a decent price. These are FP engines, for crying out loud. They are bushed engines with air bleed carburetors and porting that makes them a steady but unspectacular engine, not worth the same amount of money as an FSR or FX or even an SF. The LA line replaced these things.

Redwulf, did you get that second engine? If so, you might pull the liner out of it and compare it to the one you already have. I agree with pimmnz that your liner and piston look pretty bad. If that picture is not misleading, it does appear that it was run lean (hot) and you may even have some liner peeling going on. Even so, I still don't understand why it won't run above idle.

Redwulf__34

Yeah, I did get the second "parts" engine. It's way better than what I have now. Actually it's pretty much new. Going to see what happens with it first. I'm going to go get a crock pot and some anti freeze and clean mine up. I have an old HB .40 that ran like a dream back in the 80's. I couldn't get it to fire up after it sat for so long. So I'll crock pot them both and see what happens.

I'll keep you posted.

Sean

Redwulf__34

Hey Guys,
I should have mentioned I have this engine mounted on it's side. I know where the tank is supposed to be mounted when an engine is upright. However this one being on it's side makes it a little confusing to me. With that said, the tank pretty much fills it's compartment. So I really couldn't move it up or down if I had too. I guess I could move the location of the engine. I did mount the center line of the engine according to the drawings.

The engine I received fired right up for me. No electric starter either. I choked it with two flips, then flipped it twice on idle and it fired up. When I advanced the throttle it shut down. I fired it back up and opened the throttle slowly with the battery leads still attached. Once to full throttle I pulled the leads off and adjusted the needle. She seemed to be running ok.

The nice gentlemen who sent it to me warned me to be careful trusting it as it would shut off at about 1/4 fuel tank. The only thing I noticed in the short time I fooled with it was on idle she would increase RPM with the nose up. That would indicate the air bleed needs to be opened just a touch. If I'm correct this would also cause it to falter a little when advancing the throttle quickly..........

I'll say comparing this one and mine, the compression is low on mine. This one I've got now is pretty new. I'm not even sure if it's been properly broken in!

I think my best bet right now is to table mine temporarily and see what happens with the newer one.

Sean