Glue for planking
Been wondering what glue you guys use that dries quick but isn't a pain to clean up like CA when you plank a big plane. Titebond is nice, but takes too long to set up. What other glues are used?
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I use both at the same time,, take a look here http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/seap...l#post11447017
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Originally Posted by scale only 4 me
(Post 12285205)
I use both at the same time,, take a look here http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/seap...l#post11447017
Is SIG bond different than PVA like Titebond? I get mixed messages on that. Does it set quickly? |
Aliphatic resin is the same as carpenter's glue,, I buy it by the gallon at home depot being a Cabinetmaker ;)
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Sig lists Sig Bond as an aliphatic resin. It's similar to Titebond and is easier to sand. It will bubble up when sanded so I sand perpendicular to the glue joints at first. I also use it to join the wing sheeting together. Try a few strips before you commit to it. Dan.
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Originally Posted by All Day Dan
(Post 12285256)
Sig lists Sig Bond as an aliphatic resin. It's similar to Titebond and is easier to sand. It will bubble up when sanded so I sand perpendicular to the glue joints at first. I also use it to join the wing sheeting together. Try a few strips before you commit to it. Dan.
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When you sand a large blob of the Sig Bond pieces break away and can scar the wood. You have to be careful. Dan.
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Titebond can do that too. I found that if you apply a little heat first, then it turns rubbery and easier to sand without marring. I tried the TB and CA approach and it worked well. Top of the fuse is planked, working on assembling the bottom then I can plank it.
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What's nice about glue vs.CA,, you can wipe most the excess off with a wet rag, that's what I do when I build cabinets too,, less to sand off later ;)
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Titebond Original formula or Ambroid for me when planking.
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What I got done so far using the two glue method. The only place I needed to pin was the large sheet on the side.
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Don't let the fact that titebond takes a long time to cure stop you from using it. What you need is a different build methodology. While a planked fuse is waiting to cure, set it aside and build on the wing, or the stab, or something else.
carl |
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acdii,
I've planked a few models in my time. Here's the latest and it's current, in fact I started prepping it for silk covering. Believe it or not all I use is CA. I put a dab here and there on each applied plank. The fit is key. Charles http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2194303http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2194304http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2194305http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2194306http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2194307http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2194308http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2194309 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2194310 |
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Got the fuse planked, no different than doing a boat hull, only much bigger and easier. Could have used my proportional dividers to make it easier, and my ships curves, but they were put away.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2194311http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2194312 |
Dan,
Really nice planking, and that is planking. Charles |
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I use CA, too.
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Tom,
Nice work, nice finish! I posted to be a member of the Brotherhood. Do I get a Brotherhood number? I've been using a white primer out of an aerosol can. This GBZ is planked. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2194340http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2194341 Charles |
Mike will issue your number when he gets a chance.
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For planking best to use Tightbond as it sands great ( CA does not ) and it is waterproof so not effected by moisture long term
I use CA to build everything i can as it speeds the build and will keep the plane together for the long haul i use Sig dope to fuel proof what is required ( not epoxy) i have planes that i built 20 years ago that still have good glue joints and I still fly Enjoy |
Tony,
I've never finished a model with dope. I stay away from it. I only use it, sometimes, to fill grain, and to apply silk. I silk the entire model. Well, I have used glass cloth also and silkspan. Lots of ways to get to that end result. Charles |
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Originally Posted by TomCrump
(Post 12289636)
Mike will issue your number when he gets a chance.
I see #1 and #2 are taken. :-( Think I can have #0? Yes I'm kidding. Maybe #007 That could work. Here's one reason why. Charles http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2194377 |
I use old fashioned model airplane cement. Sigment, currently. It dries reasonably quickly and sands very well. I run a bead along the plank, use a drop of medium CA to hold it to the former at the beginning, then pin the strip about every two inches or so.
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Originally Posted by Strat2003
(Post 12290359)
I use old fashioned model airplane cement. Sigment, currently. It dries reasonably quickly and sands very well. I run a bead along the plank, use a drop of medium CA to hold it to the former at the beginning, then pin the strip about every two inches or so.
There's more than one way to skin a cat. I know, terrible expression.. I've never used anything but CA and I never used a single pin. With CA, as I said, I use a dab here and there so sanding the thing round becomes easier. I use .125" contest grade balsa only. Planks can vary but .25" or just a tad thinner is what I have found to work well. I hand sand/bevel so each piece is tight. CB http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2194766http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2194767http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2194768 |
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