Can't drill parallel.
 

Ok guys, this has been bugging me for a while and I could use some help. I'm working with average to minimal tools here and I can't drill two parallel holes or in some cases with robart contol horns, three holes so that the screws line up for the back plate of a control horn. Is there some trick that I'm not getting or is this one of those obvious things that I'm just over looking?

Thanks in advance for the help.

RE: Can't drill parallel.
 

If your using a power drill, thats probably your problem. Most drilling I do, I use finger drills. Drill bits with a shaft or handle like a screw driver that you turn with your fingers.
When I mark horns, I use a ice pick to mark the holes while the control horn is in postion, then follow up with your hand drill.

RE: Can't drill parallel.
 

You could also fabricate a jig to align the holes or
bite the bullet and buy the Robart drill guide

RE: Can't drill parallel.
 

I second the hand drill...i have the hobbico finger drill set that i got free from Tower. That way you can drill slowly and in a more controlled manner, as well as be able to check your progress every few turns of the drill...

I know that you said you had minimal tools, but on my most recent build i used a drill press ($100 from Sears) and i'm never lookin' back!!! The holes were perfect...and that was on a Hangar 9 control horn where you have to drill THREE parallel holes

RE: Can't drill parallel.
 

I echo JCB's suggestions. Here are links to the "finger drill", called a pin vise.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXL467&P=ML
Next is the smaller version..... both WITH the drill bits. VERY handy.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXL466&P=ML
If there is any way you can afford or have place for a drill press....... that would be a great investment, not only for the hobby but for MANY home projects. I am 66 years old and have a drill press from my dad that was probably manufactured in the 40's. Even though it has no frills, is a bench model with a 3'8" capacity, I consider this as my most used and valuable tool used in my workshop for almost 40 years. ....... good luck.........lownslo

RE: Can't drill parallel.
 

You don't need to buy anything.

As you drill each hole, wiggle the drill around to enlarge the hole so the screws have some freedom to move on the back side.

The screws do not need to be in a tight hole. It's the clamping action that does all of the holding.

RE: Can't drill parallel.
 

After numerous times trying to drill the holes perfectly, I gave up and did just that last night. I also put a few drops of thin CA in and around the holes to stiffen up the wood a bit.

RE: Can't drill parallel.
 

If going thru thin balsa, you could use a fine sewing pin. I have three sewing pins I use for building. I have the thick t-pins for stronger hold, a medium diameter white-bal-headed pin for les strength holding duties, and yellow-ball-headed pins for delicate holding operations. If I was having a problem drilling thru to each point, I would take the yellow-head pins, then push them tru until all holes were filled correctly, then one at a time remove the pins and drill the hole with the pin-vise using the push pin hole as a guide to help the bit go the right direction.

RE: Can't drill parallel.
 

hi
check your hobby shop for harry higley tap and drill guides. these gadgets work great for less then 10.00 bucks

good luck and happy flying

pt19 flyer

RE: Can't drill parallel.
 

As far as getting control horns easily installed, sharpen the end of the bolts, I use my disk sander but it could be done with a file. After you get em installed file the ends flat again to keep from snagging yer meat when you clean your model.

RE: Can't drill parallel.
 

Lots of good suggestions here. It's not getting through the wood that's the problem, it's just getting the screws to meet up with the holes in the back plate of the control horn without the balsa looking like swiss cheese when I finally get them right. The three screw ones are the worst. I guess as long as I stay with two hole control horns and get the clamping function of the control horn to work, I'll be ok.

RE: Can't drill parallel.
 

First thing you need to do is work on a level surface.

Now get out your ruler and your pencil and do some layout. Mark where you want the control horn to go. Put marks where all the screw holes go. Mark the clevis--mark whatever you need to do so you KNOW where every screw and clevis is going to attach. This is not the time for "thats about right"

Now you set your control surface on the bench and block up the trailing edge (brown scrap wood) until the centerline of the control surface is level. Notice the red line in my drawing. That red line should be equal distance from the bench on both ends of the red line. Then you know it's level.

Now you set your drill press to level and do a test run through scrap 1x2 and make sure the head is indeed drilling a perfectly vertical hole in the wood. Not slanted off on the X axis by 2 degrees or tilted forward on the Y axis 3/4 degree. Perfectly straight up and down.

Locate the holes for the control horn screws. You should already have the holes laid out.

Drill the holes.

It's all in the setup. Takes time, but done right, it will make you a better modeler.

RE: Can't drill parallel.
 

When you need to drill holes in the trailing edge of the wing for hinges, you do basically the same thing.

I made a jig for my cordless drill. The jig holds the cordless drill exactly perpendicular to any trailing edge surface.

Layout the holes where you want the hinges.

Set the wing down on the bench. Block up the trailing edge until the center of the wing is level.

Using a cordless drill--set shims under the drill to elevate it off the work surface until the bit is centered on the trailing edge of the wing. The jig on the side of the drill keeps you drilling straight on and not off at a sideways angle.

The first pic is an end view of the drill and wing laying on the bench. The drill is shimmed with 3/32" balsa strips to get it level.

The second pic is looking from the top. The jig is a simple piece of 1" wide basswood about 8" long. I always use Robarts and they need a 3/16" hole. But, you can make the hole any size. Make 15 jigs. It's easy. I drill a hole in the basswood and epoxy in a piece of brass tubing the size of my drill bit. The bit just slips barely through the hole in the brass tubing and can't wobble around. The brass tube is epoxied into the basswood. When I slip the bit through the jig, I slide the basswood up against the trailing edge of the wing. Now I know I'm drilling a perfectly perpendicular hole into the back of the wing. The drill and wing are shimmed--so I know they are level too.