EduardoC

So.... now that im planning on getting this, what would be a got set of hardware that combines performance with budget in mind for thos aircraft? I am getting a DA-50 which seems to be the ideal engine for this nice piece of flying equipment, but what about servos, batteries, backup batteries, etc... any suggestions keeping cash expense as small as possible without a big loss of performance?

RCFREAK

Hey mate, this is what I will be running in my up and coming QQ Yak 54 86"

Motor : DA-50R /with carbon carb plate
Muffler : Canister Muffler | Either BMB daempfer, KS canisters or MTW cans. Leaning towards BMB's
Prop: PT 23x8 (carbon)
Servos : 5985mg Ailerons/Elevators
Rudder Servo: 5955TG
Servo Horns: Some nice SWB arms / or AirWild ones
Receiver : Futaba 149DP / 9ch PCM
Batterys : RX Power/Fromeco 4800mAh "Peerless" /with Fromeco Reg & Switch
Ignition Battery: Fromeco 2400mAh "Peerless" /with Fromeco Reg & Switch
Titanium/Carbon Fiber linkages, with HD ball links allround
Twisted HD Extention's for servos
Karvan Wheels (i think these are the lightest)
Titanium Axles
Might be getting a Carbon Fiber Landing gear
Also a Carbon Fiber Spinner
Switch to a 20oz Tank

I would not say this would be the cheapest, but would certainly have to be the most ideal setup for one of these birds. I think Li-Ion batterys are a must have in any Gasser plane, not only for their superior mAh ratings, but they're lighter, and can deliver more current than a normal battery, a must for any hard flying 3d machine. Keep in mind you want to keep it light, so buy light gear, what ever your money can buy. As for the servos the 5985mg's are the newest ones out, but you could stick with your 5945mg's, or other brand equivalent. Remember not to skimp on items, buy the best you can afford. FLY AND ENJOY

EduardoC

wow, thanks a lot for this gorgeous list, it will help me do budgets thanks again!

Copper

I'm flying an 85' QQ yak and here'e what I am using.

Servos: JR 8611A on all surfaces. I got mine before the problems started, and they're supposed to be fixed now.

Batteries: Three 2300Mah NiMh with JR switches, 2 on RX and one on ignition. I wanted the redundancy but didn't want the cost of converting to Li ion. If I had it to do over again, I would use Li Ion.

Prop: PT 23x8 (carbon) Break in with 22x8 or 22x10 according to DA I used wooden props for break in.

TX JR 9303 and JR RX

I'm using the hardware that QQ recommends for all control surfaces.

I added a Smart Fly fiber optic kill switch for saftey I have no wires that run to RX within 10 inches of ignition.

I made my own servo extensions from twisted wire and connectors I got from Air Wild.

My plane flies incredibly well. I could have gone a little lighter, but it flies great as is. I may go back with carbon fiber gear and titanium axles as well as the Kavan wheels and tires later, but it's not needed.

Hope this helps.
Copper

EduardoC

coool, thanks a lot. just wondering, by Li-ion you are referring to li-po batteries'

RCFREAK

Li-Ion = Lithium Ion, Li-Po = Lithium Polymer, Two different chemistrys. We use Li-Ion for powering RX modules, and Li-Po for powering electric motors in electric planes. Two verry different batterys. For your yak get Li-Ion

exeter_acres

My Feedback: (2)

save weight... 1 2400 LiIon pack on the RX is more than enough...

and a 16oz tank is plenty of flight time... IMHO

RCFREAK

You will find that more that 80% of people that use the Li-Ion's use the 4800's on the RX as they are lighter than a normal nicd/nimh pack, and also they last 2 weekends without a charge.

exeter_acres

My Feedback: (2)

maybe for bigger planes, but it just isn't needed for the 85" version.......
I run 1 2400 pack and can still fly all weekend....

I know several people around here that use 2 2400's on there 33% planes too.,....
but it is all personal preference

shakes268

2400s are more than enough. I use 4800s (because I had them) in my 100cc Yak and they last me all weekend and then some. I never hit the 7.0v limit (Guess I'm not flying enough )

RCFREAK

OK cool, this is news to me. How many flights should i be expecting off a 2400mah Li-Ion pack. I fly 3d.

exeter_acres

My Feedback: (2)

all day!

EduardoC

Ah ok, thanks because i was thinking for the power-weight ratio that you guys were talking about lipo. Now, another question, redundancy is a MUST in these aircraft right? if so, which batteries then, because you guys lost me with all this i don't have to charge in two weeks talk :P i just want batteries taht can last me 5-6 flights per charge with no risk at all. Thanks in advance

dbcaster

Going with a 4800 Lion is not all about capacity and flying time. Li-Ion's don't have the same current output as a Lipo so the 2400 may be lacking in current depending on the servos used. It should be o.k. with a 50cc with one aileron servo, but running all high current servos could require more current than what a 2400mah pack can provide.

RCFREAK

Thats what i always thought as well, im going to continue to use the 4800's. No you dont need redundancy in a 50cc aircraft, anything higher and it becomes a must. Using redundancy on a 50cc is a waste of money, an over kill, and in the end makes the plane heavier.

Iflyit

My Feedback: (512)

And why is that? Are 50cc planes OK to crash because you don't have redundancy but 100cc planes aren't?? I lost a 50cc Yak last summer because a brand name regulator died and I only had one pack. I use dual packs in all of my 50cc and up stuff now, a couple ounces is definitely worth it is a plane survives.

Instead of using one 4800 pack you can use 2 2400 packs and they will handle the same amount of current since they are in parallel, the only extra weight you would have is the weight of the extra regulator and switch.

RCFREAK

Fromeco 4800mAh Peerless packs have built in redundancy, or didnt you know that? If one of the cells fails, it still has power.
And I am still hold my arguement that redundancy in a 50CC plane is optional,

exeter_acres

My Feedback: (2)

plane setup is ALL personal preference......

I run 1 2400 Fromeco pack for the Rx and 1 2400 Fromeco pack for the ignition..... I flew this setup all season competing in IMAC and flying 3d at home
Hitec 5955's on all surfaces.....

Really there is no rule.... you want redundancy? Sure, put the weight in...
For me...the single 2400 works....doesn't mean anyone else has to do it.... really...it is up to you

on my 40%er, I run 2 RX and 2 4800's
No powerboxes or expanders or any of that other stuff.....

Really it is up to the end user and there are No hard and fast rules

If that works for you fine.... but for me it was a choice...

Iflyit

My Feedback: (512)

Yes I knew that but I am 100% positive they dont have dual regulators built in The regulator is what I am worried about failing not the pack really, if that fails you wont have power.
I agree its all in personal preference but you did not say it was optional, you said it was not needed

RCFREAK

I still think its not needed , but ill say optional just to make you happy

Iflyit

My Feedback: (512)

If you had a regulator fail and crashed a plane you would not say that. There have been many posts about crashed planes because of regulators failed.

Its your plane not mine but I would reccomend dual packs.

RCFREAK

If you buy a top quality regulator such as Fromeco, you treat it right, give it propper vibration insulation. There is no reason for it to fail. Even after a hard 3d flight the regulator is not even hot to the touch.

Iflyit

My Feedback: (512)

Thats funny since the reg I had fail was a Fromeco and it was mounted correctly. They could not even figure out why it failed, they replaced it.
All electronic components can fail for any reason at any time.

RCFREAK

Mate, your RX has the same chance of failing compared to the regulator, the circuits are more fragile than a regulator, if you insist on haveing a backup battery and regulator, why not have a spare RX unit? and TX

flatlandmike

My Feedback: (17)

Because redundency to a point is good but if we back up every thing it would cost more than crashing one; total redundency is a huge weight penalty.

A method i use to get switch and reg redundency is i order my battery with 2 leads and hook up one switch and one reg to each lead, not only does this get switch and reg redundent but also spreads the load going into the rx.