Ok I did get my 9.5 Violator in and I finally took it out tonight to break it in. It was about 35 degrees out and I also took my 1/10 scale out. It seemed my 1/10 scale which usually fires right up took forever to start and after going through a battery of my roto start on my .26 on the violator, it didn't even begin to fire. Another weird thing is that there was no gas coming out the stinger even though I flooded it. Is this normal? I know the glow plug was glowing because I tested it. The glow plugs coils were glowing bright except for the last coil that attaches to the side of the glow plug. Also it came with two washers, do I use both? We felt the air filter and it seemed it was wet, is there a way the gas could've been coming out through the air filter. I mean we primed it and then cranked and cranked on it until the battery was dead in the rotostart and it didn't even begin to run once. Just looking for some tips. I'm going to try again tomorrow and it's supposed to be 60 here so maybe that will help.

I broke mine in last night. It was a little hard to start initially, but eventually I got it going and got about 4 tanks through it. I am in Charlotte, NC and it was cold here too, about 35 -40 degrees. One thing that helps a lot is heating the carb and motor up with a hair dryer before you try to start it. The fuel does not vaporize well in colder temps, and this helps a lot with any nitro car, especially a new/tight motor.

The only problem I noted was with the brakes - they were very inconsistent. After I cleaned it up I checked the manual and noticed that I didn't have the short piece of fuel tube on the brake linkage that the parts diagram shows. I put that on and will try again later today...I think that was the problem though.

Good luck. Oh yeah, everything I've heard about the steering servo being lousy it true too.

hey there

i had the same troubles with my hyper 7, it took me forever to start (took me 4 days and three different rc dudes to help) and i still have the bruised fingers from pull starting it. what i suggest is to firstly only use one washer on your glow plug. secondly try to turn over the engine in short bursts without the glow plug in whilst covering the cylinder head with your hand. have a look to see if your hand has some fuel spluttered on it? if it has then let the car breathe for a minute then put the plug back in. if you got splutter its probably flooded.

ok next is the fuel reaching the carb? if not blow into the pressure tube that is attached to your exhaust, that should feed fuel to your carb. thirdly make sure you have the factory settings for your engine before going further.

if your air filter is wet maybe you should try to determine what the moisture is. if its fuel then that is weird. if its water then you have to dry it out. water going into your fuel is not good.

and ambient temp can play a part in breaking in a new engine but if your other car wouldnt start then maybe it has something to do with it.
the other thing to consider is the fuel you use. fuels vary from batch to batch, even if they are the same brand.
hope ive been of some help.

My 1/10 scale did start eventually, but my 1/8th never even popped once. My 1/10 scale after I pull on it for a while will spit gas out the stinger even if it hasn't started. Is this the same with 1/8 engines? Mine iddn't even have a drop on the tuned pipe even when I tilted it nothing came out and that seem very odd to me for as much as I tried to start it. I checked the high speed needle and it's correct, but I don't have any base settings for any of the other needles as they sad they should be set from the factory.

Ok I switched glow plugs and it was about 60 here today vs. 30-35 yesterday and it started right up. First tank i let it idle through with no problems then heat cycled and second tank ran it up and down my street blipping throttle to about half. Third tanks started having some problems, it would die as soon as I hit the throttle, but idle fine. I did change a few screw setting around because it wasn't sounding right. It was hesitating and sounded like backfiring a bit, not sure though. Anyway how can you tell where the closed point is on this carb? I try to close it but it just gets harder to turn and never really stops like it's closed. I don't push it too far because I'm scared I'm stripping it. I was in a park today and man these are louder than 1/10 scales! I did run it in short grass a few times just to get a preview of how great it goes off road compared to my 1/10 scale, although it didn't seem as powerful. Hopefully thats just because I don't have it tuned right and not fully broken in yet. Can I take it full throttle yet, I'm on about my 4th tank which on the violator is a lot considering it's 140cc's each tank.

hey

i would try closing your bottom about 1/4 turn then try again. if its idling good then flooding that could be it. and i would get at least 8 to 10 tanks before going full throttle. you will know when your engine is run in. it should start easy and straight away. if you have fuel coming through your stinger you could be flooded, definitely if its back firing.

now turning your needles to close should be a very delicate exersize. you should stop as soon as you get slight resistance. dont push it you can stuff up the carb.

the other thing is be patient. its taken me just over a month to break in my hyper 21 and today i just worked out how to tune it better.
the other thing is not to tune your engine till its warmed up. your engine will react differently when its warm. lick your finger and slide it on the cylinder head (dont burn your finger ) THE SPIT SHOULD BOIL OFF IN ABOUT 3 TO 4 SECONDS that is when you are running the right temp. if it dosent boil off like that after a few laps up and down the street then its running too rich, if on the other hand it bubbles off in a second or two then its too lean.
its all part of the fun of getting to know your car. take time , go slow, you will be thankful you did. best of luck