I'm pretty sure that the Phaser 4 is the same thing as the Ofna Ultra MBX. Any hop ups you can find for the Ultra MBX should be a direct fit for your buggy.

Good info I will look up on that thanks .. What do you have and how do you rate it?

I drive an Ofna Hyper 7 PBS/Pro and like it very much. It's not in the upper echelon of buggies like the Mugen, Kyosho Kanaii or the EB4, but it's still very capable and will hold it's own at the track. Also to correct my mistake, I believe your Phaser 4, is the same as the Ofna Ultra LX Pro, not the Ultra MBX:

http://www.ofna.com/ultLXpro.html

I was so so very close to buying the hyper 7 but just could not justify the cash at the moment [&:]. What did you pay for it the best price I got was £470.[X(] Do you know any good online model shops?

I paid $420.00 shipped(american) for mine. www.renegaderc.com usually has some good deals on them too. For parts for all the Ofna stuff, Nitrohouse.com can't be beat. They don't have the greatest prices in the world however they have dang near everything for Ofna vehicles (They should since they share a building with Ofna ).

how does the 7 pbs go then ? You ever seen it next to the phasor 4 , go on dont hold back
you in the UK if so did you not have to pay import tax on it?

No import taxes here as I live in the U.S. The Ultra LX Pro (Phaser 4) is more of a basher than a racer. Like all of the Ultra series buggies, the LX Pro is a tank and durability is definitely not an issue. The technology of the Ultra LX Pro is a little dated when compared to some of Ofna's other buggies, but as with most other buggies, it can be made more "raceable" with some of the available hop ups.

Whats all this about running in then ? I just fired it up and stuck it on a box for 2 mins at half throttel then wacked it to full for a bit . Followed by a good 3/4 of an hour blating about.. Is that good or bad? what do you do?

[X(] Well, I guess that's one way to do it. Lol!!!! Generally speaking, you want to either idle the first couple tanks or put the buggy on the ground and "blip" the throttle while driving around in figure eights. After those first couple tanks, then you can start moving up in to the mid throttle region for another couple tanks. After that, it's time to start tuning it for running!

The reason for easing into the rpms is to give the internal parts a chance to loosen up and mate. If you just fire it up and go to full throttle, you risk the chance of blowing the engine right off the bat.

Yes it sounds a bit like what I did [X(] I did it in 3 stages and 2 tanks went through before I fully opend it .. Glad to see I sort of did it right..LMAO.. I have began tuning am i right in saying that there are 3 tuning screws.
the biggest on the side is the carb intake .the top one is the top end fuel input . and the bottom spring loded one is the low end and idel?

I have it runing 96% good just another 10 mins tomorrow and I think I will have cracked it.. But it does help is you know exhactly what you are tuning.

For reference:



There are some really good threads here at RCU regarding tuning. If you follow their recommendations, you'll be flying in no time!

Yes not far off after looking at the pic .[8D] All good fun Thanks for all the info and help see you round no dout . But it's bed time for this old knacker