I posted this question in the Stadium Truck forum,I'm not to sure on the advice and it wasnt very thorough.
dagass HELP.....I have the XXX-NT,I know theres alot of metal to plastic parts,is this something that needs to be locked?
Theres a ton of different types of tite as well,which would be suitable for my app?
Any advice here is very much appreciated.
Thanks Guys
DF

Dodgefan,
If your screws are backing out of the plastic parts, you may want to replace that plastic part.
What happens is the parts screw hole gets progresively bigger and bigger every time it comes loose. When it gets loose the vibration makes the hole larger and larger, then the screw has little to grab.

Loctite may help a little, but I don't think Loctite is your answer. As a temporaray fix, I've used CA to help hold the screw tight by filling the gap. This seams to work reasonable well.

When I was running my rc10gt this was a constant problem with the rear a-arm mounts, luckily replacing the was cheap and easy. I'm starting to have this happen to my hyper7, the front and rear bulk heads are coming loose after every run, it's time to build that new buggy, nothin like new parts

For metal to metal connections, use blue locktite. I use red on a very few things on 8th buggies and MT's, but only a tiny drop when I do use it. One of the guys i know from racing told me about a new locktite product designed for metal fastener to plastic part applications, but i have not seen any of it. He says it works very well. I'll be looking in to it next time I place a hardware order.

I run both 1/10th scale (losi XXXNT) and now 1/8th and have been told to never use loctite on plastic.

CA glue works (just a drop) as does tire glue. I found out about the tire glue when racing one day and a shock srcew backed out of the front A arm - the quick fix was tire glue and it worked well. AND - when it came time to remove the screw (to rebuild the shocks) it came out easily! Much cheaper than a new A arm!!!

slicks

Are they not one in the same? I've always used CA to glue tires, am I missing something here?

Yes, can't you see the obvious, they charge double after the put the words "Tire glue" on the label
Like CA isn't over priced as it is.

Dodge,

When building a new kit, as you know, it's necessary to loctite all metal to metal threaded connections. As for the metal to plastic connections, you are generally using a self tapping, coarse thread screw and thread locking is not necessary. As others have mentioned, there are occasions when you may want to put a drop of CA in a plastic screw hole before sinking in the screw, but this is generally not needed on a new kit such as yours.

If you were to run into a wall and rip a ball stud out of the A-arm, and you had no replacement arm, then you would use a drop of CA in the plastic screw hole to aid in keeping the screw in place. Also, if you clean and disassemble your truck regularly, you will start to notice that the metal to plastic connections will start to get a little sloppy and the screw won't bite as well. This is another instance where it would be appropriate to use a little CA in a plastic screw hole.

Loctite makes a product for this type of application call "Black Max 380". It's an adhesive that bonds to metal, plastic and rubber. If you run into a situation where you have a metal screw that is either backing out of a plastic part or you have a metal screw that has ripped the threads out of a plastic piece, this is the stuff you want to use. To use it like a thread lock, just a drop on the screw will keep the screw in place. If you find yourself out bashing and you strip a thread completely and you have no replacement parts, you'll want to use a little more and set the screw into the hole and wait for it to bond. It will get you out of a jam and let you continue to play.