Hyper 7 Pro to K3
#1
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From: Chicago,
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I have a H7 Pro that's just broken in and just recently bought the K3. I'm contemplating whether to sell the H7 or not. I've accumulated some spare parts for it from eBay including the longer chassis. The K3 is still being built, I'm just taking a break because my fingers are so d**n sore! Eventually, after getting used to the K3 and having enough spares, I will get into racing it.
Here's the progress on the K3.....rear differential and rear suspension so far.....only took me about 5 hours to get to this point....
... sad?
I've had the aluminum parts anodized red 'cause blue just doesn't do it for me. The chassis is still at the shop getting hard anodized and should be ready tomorrow. What do you guys think? Pointers are welcome for building the K3.
Here's the progress on the K3.....rear differential and rear suspension so far.....only took me about 5 hours to get to this point....
... sad?I've had the aluminum parts anodized red 'cause blue just doesn't do it for me. The chassis is still at the shop getting hard anodized and should be ready tomorrow. What do you guys think? Pointers are welcome for building the K3.
#2
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From: melbourne, AUSTRALIA
hey i pmed u and also i advise you keep the h7 if you like it and wait untill u have built the k3 u never now there might be a very slim chance you don't like it.
but just interested if you where going to sell the h7 how much would you be looking for. i might be able to help you sell it.
but just interested if you where going to sell the h7 how much would you be looking for. i might be able to help you sell it.
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From: aliso viejo, CA
i've been tossing around the idea of getting a hyper 7 pbs / pcr but most recently i just decided I will get a kanai 3 and start building from there.
the fun part for me is always building the stuff, so i may as well start with the best and go real slow, instead of getting a rtr and building it up...
the fun part for me is always building the stuff, so i may as well start with the best and go real slow, instead of getting a rtr and building it up...
#6
i'd recommend just building it up as per the kit instructions but with the addition of some CNC chassis braces & front Steering knuckles
it'll be almost indestructable then

it'll be almost indestructable then
#7
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From: Chicago,
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Yup, building a kit is fun. I've had 4 on-road cars and one buggy that were already built when I bought them. The K3 is my first kit that I will be building from the ground up. It's so interesting and fun to put the little things together and see your progress....ahhhh, the satisfaction of enjoying the fruit after the labor...sorta...hehehee....downside is your fingers tend to get sore big time. I can't wait to finish it.
#8
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From: melbourne, AUSTRALIA
hey if you fingers are getting so swore you must be doing something wrong our are you using the standard allem keys that come with the kit.
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From: Newport, RI
hey bro.... where did you take all the metal to get ando'd red? i hate purple and blue and was trying to do something a lil different and use red, but it is hard to come by... especially for the PCR. I have done many lil things such as red fuel line, filter, fuel filter, engine head protector, washers, silicone stuff, and nuts..... but i want to get the rest ando'd red, and don't know where to go to do it.
Buz
P.S.- looks nice by the way.
Buz
P.S.- looks nice by the way.
#12
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From: Chicago,
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Hey Buz,
Try looking in your local yellow pages and start there. The place I had my pieces done is local and I've found couple more places around but the shop I used is the cheapest and fastest turn around. You could have them back the same day if you bring them in early enough or if not, they will be ready the next day. The basic charge here is between $50-$65 for the lot, not per pieces. So the many you're having done, the mor practical. Or you can have a buddy anodized his parts at the same as you and you could split the cost. This is my second time using the same shop and so the owner is giving me a little break in price
There are two kinds of anodizing...regular anodizing and hard anodizing. Hard anodizing is twice the cost of the regular and it's supposedly would make the stuff like steel...this is good for the chassis, tower braces and the nut wheels 'cause those take the most abuse.
Try looking in your local yellow pages and start there. The place I had my pieces done is local and I've found couple more places around but the shop I used is the cheapest and fastest turn around. You could have them back the same day if you bring them in early enough or if not, they will be ready the next day. The basic charge here is between $50-$65 for the lot, not per pieces. So the many you're having done, the mor practical. Or you can have a buddy anodized his parts at the same as you and you could split the cost. This is my second time using the same shop and so the owner is giving me a little break in price
There are two kinds of anodizing...regular anodizing and hard anodizing. Hard anodizing is twice the cost of the regular and it's supposedly would make the stuff like steel...this is good for the chassis, tower braces and the nut wheels 'cause those take the most abuse.
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From: aliso viejo, CA
ORIGINAL: Booyah
Nothing like starting at the TOP
Credit card is going to hate you
Nothing like starting at the TOP
Credit card is going to hate you
It's hard to resist just getting the OFNA Hyp 7 PBS but I've seen a few too many posts about the diffs leaking, the plastic parts needing to be re-tapped or they will strip out, the radio and servos being junk as well as the non threaded shock bodies, etc...
Will the diffs in a Kanai 3 leak?
#15
ORIGINAL: motobrett
Will the diffs in a Kanai 3 leak?
Will the diffs in a Kanai 3 leak?
they shouldn't do if you build em up properly

but anything that holds a liquid can leak from time to time!
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From: Irmo, SC
I just got into the Hobby myself and I started with an Ofna Hyper 7 So far I have no complaints. I kinda bent my front shock tower but I got that straightened out. other than that it's an excelent little buggy. I wouldn't sell it for the world. well maybe I would but it would take a lot. I do have a question though. If anyone has any experience with H7's could you maybe give me a hint as to a good way to keep it from doing a back flip when I make jumps?
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From: Marbellamarbella, SPAIN
yep when in the air let go of accel!!
on buggys like this if you carry on accelerating the buggy will tip back if you press on the brake it will tip forwards!
on buggys like this if you carry on accelerating the buggy will tip back if you press on the brake it will tip forwards!
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From: Irmo, SC
It works!!! thank's a lot. I appreciate the help and I f I have anymore questions I know where to go. Also Is there really a two speed tranny for the Hyper 7? [sm=confused.gif] I also am in the market for a good truck. something along the lines of a savage. If anyone has anything for sale let me know.
#22
how long is a piece of string?
there are too many variables to consider to guestimate an accurate top speed!
what engine? is it leaned right out so it revs? what pipe? what fuel? what length header(this affects top RPM)? what type of tyres? tyre circumference? spur gear & clutchbell sizes? these are a few of the most important variables to consider[X(]
but as a rough guess, say about 40 MPH!

there are too many variables to consider to guestimate an accurate top speed!
what engine? is it leaned right out so it revs? what pipe? what fuel? what length header(this affects top RPM)? what type of tyres? tyre circumference? spur gear & clutchbell sizes? these are a few of the most important variables to consider[X(]
but as a rough guess, say about 40 MPH!
#23
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From: SydneyNSW, AUSTRALIA
that all depends on a lot of things, out of the box it should do about 35 to 40 mph. i got mine to do about 58 to 60 mph with some modification and it was a 4 port.. here it is before and after my latest mods..
actually check my other post " Hyper before and after " or have a look at my gallery
actually check my other post " Hyper before and after " or have a look at my gallery
#24
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From: Chicago,
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BigBuz,
Whatever you do, DO NOT hard anodized your chassis...regular anodizing is OK. Look what happened to mine. The Slide chassis on top is what it's supposed to be. I had them both hard anodized and the K3 chassis got cooked.
Whatever you do, DO NOT hard anodized your chassis...regular anodizing is OK. Look what happened to mine. The Slide chassis on top is what it's supposed to be. I had them both hard anodized and the K3 chassis got cooked.



