eb4 carb problem
#1
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From: brighton, UNITED KINGDOM
lo all
i have an eb4 s2 pro rtr.
i am trying to tune it cos it doesnt idle properly when cold and bogs out at full throttle.
i decided to return it to the factory settings and start afresh.
i have the idle speed set to 1mm in the carb and when i try and start it it kicks in and then
revs down b4 cutting out ( after about 5 secs ) i think that means its running lean right?
but sometimes when i adjust the LSN the throttle sticks and wont open. has anyone ever had this happen to them?
i was thinking thats when im having problems tuning it to idle prperly.
its a a practically new car ( only had half a litre through it ) so i was wondering if it could be to do with that?
any help would be greatly apreachiated.
i have an eb4 s2 pro rtr.
i am trying to tune it cos it doesnt idle properly when cold and bogs out at full throttle.
i decided to return it to the factory settings and start afresh.
i have the idle speed set to 1mm in the carb and when i try and start it it kicks in and then
revs down b4 cutting out ( after about 5 secs ) i think that means its running lean right?
but sometimes when i adjust the LSN the throttle sticks and wont open. has anyone ever had this happen to them?
i was thinking thats when im having problems tuning it to idle prperly.
its a a practically new car ( only had half a litre through it ) so i was wondering if it could be to do with that?
any help would be greatly apreachiated.
#2
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From: North of the, , UNITED KINGDOM
No that means its running rich. It will stick if you wind it to far. If it's a new engine then try warming the block with a hair dryer before you try and start it.
Also engine type, fuel type and plug type would help for more diagnosis.
Also engine type, fuel type and plug type would help for more diagnosis.
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From: BelfastN.Ireland, UNITED KINGDOM
I have just finessed running in my mp 7.5 kyosho RTR and i used the same procedure as i have done with my heli engines and aero engines.First of all let me say that buggy engines seem a little tricky to tune cpmpared to heli and aero engines, i put that down to the type of engines/carbs that comes with the RTR`s.My friend just ran in his schumacher swift at factory settings and by the book, 3 tanks with the wheels off the ground then took the buggy out, ran it slow and then started to lean it(it was a breeze).I had no such luck as my kyosho refused to run idle at factory settings, it was scary as it ran very hot, even though it was dripping rich and just loved locking up at TDC (top dead center).What i done to solve the problem is what i do with all my engines (if they give problems) and it has never failed me.First of all you need patience, get the engine back to factory settings or slightly richer, open the throttle enough to get her going and keep the glow battery connected, then run three or four tanks through the engine.The glow will help a lot in keeping the engine turning over until you get the first few tanks in, the engine might cut out a few times and might lock at TDC but, keep at it.After you have run 3 to 4 tanks (with wheels off the ground) its time to get her moving, screw the high and low speed needles in a half to 1 full turn, don't worry if it smokes a lot just run her at no more than half throttle.The most important thing is not to worry about the engine not ticking over as you really must sort the high speed needle setting first, so start turning the high speed need in at 1/8 to 1/4 turns at a time.When your engine starts to clear itself and runs better you can turn your attention to the low speed needle, most people i know start with the low speed needle set flush to the carb body as its a good starting point.Next start leaning the low speed needle, you will notice the idle speed starts to pick up so set you carb slide opening to 0.5 or so by way of the spring loaded screw to get a good idle.I would also bet that the standard plug it came with is not the best so what i would do is use a fuel with 20% nitro and an OS#8 plug.Try your best not to leave the piston at TDC after a run, as the sleeve and piston cool and contract at different rates, you might find the engine locks up.If your engine locks up at anytime try using a hair dryer or heat gun, i think the hair dryer is better as you would be surprised just how fast that aluminum heats up, heat up in around the piston area and try tuning the engine over (it might take a few attempts) just remember Patience.I am waiting on a TT EB4 S2 pro coming next week and hopefully i`m prepared for the next running in session.If you need anymore help try looking at this link [link=http://www.nitrohouse.com/engine_breakin.htm]NitroHouse[/link] I'm sure it will help.I'm really sorry for being so long winded but i know the feeling so well when an engine sends you to hell and back, i just wanted to share what i went through.
Good Luck.RoyG
Good Luck.RoyG



