scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

Has anyone personally tried one of these tools that this guy on ebay is selling?

[link=http://stores.ebay.com/Xschnitzer-Racing-Concept_Precision-Tools_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQsclZallQQsotimedisplayZ2QQ tZkm]The guys store[/link]

If the link is no good it seller "Xschnitzer Racing Concept"

binaryterror

I woudn't use that it won't pinch the sleeve perfectly oval at all...

Have it done right by OSrocket.

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

Da Smak

personally I'd rather mush the piston with a hammer than down size the liner and induce slop between it and the case.

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

Thanks for the unsolicited opinions guys, but once again
Has anyone personally tried one of these tools????

SKYLINE350GT

Yes- I have. They work fine. I bought one a while back from ctektools on the auction site. It works fine. However I don't reccomend pinching sleeves. unless they dont make new pistons/sleeves and rods for your motor anymore- or a similar circumstance. Pinches dont add compression and never leave the sleeve perfectly round. Causing blow by and other problems.

super_vegueta

I have one and work fine, no problems!, i use the tool in my ws7 and the results was amazing.

I hope this help.

Regards

MassiveMods

yeah i use one it works, adds about 2 litres to your engine

Da Smak

so does mushing the piston

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

Well despite grahama89's "Mushing" suggestion
I decided to buy one, well see if it's a waste or not
Thanks all

ZoomX

I have tried squeeze service and the sleeve resizer that I have got from THE auction site (search for resizer) for less than $20, both for my few MT12. I would say both has work extremely well for the price that I have paid. I am now in the process of observing how many gallon can each take after the squeeze. I will only try the mushing trick after some good feedbacks from the guys here

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

Mushing, Don't you have to live in Alaska or Canada for that??

Da Smak

Nah theres no Huskys involved in mine.

mattyk6

One of the guys at the track had his sleeve squeezed this last spring with something like this. It brought the motor back to life and he is still running the same setup.

WICKED RC

My Feedback: (1)

You can use a tube or pipe cutter around the top of the piston, if it has a oil ring at the top of it.Just go around the ring at the top 2or 3 times and your done.When the cutter is going threw the oil grove it pushs the metal to the outsides.When you are doing this do a little at a time.The piston should stop an 1/8"-1/4" from the top of the sleeve.Make sure and add oil on the piston before you put it in to the sleeve.

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

On a scale of 1-10, with 10 being the worst, how bad an idea is that??

fhm101

I once used the cutter trick in a moment of desperation after having my engine go soft before a big race with no chance of getting a replacemnt p/s set. After using the cutter, I had to come back with some 1200 grit paper to round off the raised portons of the piston to get it to fit. It worked fine for a day of racing, even though it tended to run a bit hotter than usual. I never ran it after that one day.

I had a local guy last year show me how to mush a piston. He put a 1/4" extension in a vise and set the piston down on it so the dome on the square drive matched the dome under the piston crown, then placed the ball end of a small ball peen hammer in the center of the piston top. He then proceeded to lightly tap the flat face of the ball peen with the flat face of a larger ball peen hammer. He would make a few taps and test fit, than a few more taps, until he was satis fied with the fit. The first piston came through just fine, but when he tapped the second one it split across the top between the wrist pin holes. I suspect the piston was defective as he continues to do this with all his engines and has good results from it.

As for the tool on ebay, you can do the same thing with heat and a hose clamp, and i'm sure the results would be as predictable, consistant, and accurate for much less money.

I've also seen sleeves resized in lathe chucks and large collets as well. The only sleeve resizing method I've ever seen that looks like it might be consistant from sleeve to sleeve is the adjustable die sets made by a man who goes by the name Ray A. in upstate new york. His stuff looks real good, but it carries a hefty price tag and would require either going into business to pay back or having a large supply of disposable cash to lay out for personal use.

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

Well,
I got the tool in the mail earlier today
Truthfully it looks pretty cheaply done. An over blown hose clamp it is
And it really wasn't the exact inside diamiter to fit the sleeve.I had to flare it out a bit ti get the sleeve to slide into the tool,
I ran it thought the procedure the guys spells out, basically, crank down on it a little spin it 180deg, crank again spin it 90deg etc., spin 180deg. one last time and crank it again. It seamed to do the job. The piston befoe I started slid all the way to the top very easy, now it stops about 4mm from the top.

I'll report back on it's performace after I run it. Before as soon as it reached running temp it would bog and flame out. well see if I can actually get some run time out of the engine.

And Those asking, Why not buy a new P/S you cheap scap? Well I have three hyper motors and this last 8-port I got just lost compression after less than 2 gallons. I think I burned it up in my H7 truggy with too high of gearing. Anyway, if I get a few more gallons using this tool then it's worth it. We'll see.

WICKED RC

My Feedback: (1)

On a scale of 1-10, with 10 being the worst, how bad an idea is that?? Quote


And you think MUSHING is better,will I dont care about any of it.Im not that cheap,to resize piston&sleeves.If you keep your temps between 200-240 you can get 8 to 10 gallons of fuel out of a good engine.And on the pipe cutter thing alot of people do that more than you think,I tried it on an old OS Hyper.15 just to see if it worked.It worked like a champ for me.

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

Dude, I have no Idea what Mushing intales, but your method doesn't sound like a good idea to me either,
Allot of people wear nipple rings, but that doesn't make it a seam like a good idea to me LOL
If it works for you , Great!! Rock on Cowboy

KyoshoKev

sooooo hooooooooooooow did it gooooooooooooooooooooooo??

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

I'ts not in the buggy yet
I don't think I can race Saturday morning, and the othr track that races Saturday night won't allow buggies til after the big ST race in a couple weeks.[:@]

So maybe I'll put it in my Truggy and see what it does,
Give me over the weekend to test it

Da Smak

I am pioneering the mushing technique. It's a simple idea that does not require the purchase of any mor tools/parts or induce slop between the liner and case (which itself causes conrod failure). Plus if the piston and liner have had it, then there is no harm in trying is there?

Now I have had a 100% sucess rate so far on the 25 P/Ls that I have trid this on and the first one to fail after mushing still got 5 Imp Gallons (7 US gals) before it lost compression again (when it was mushed again and still runs).

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

Alex,
This is the second time you mention slop between the liner and the case
Why do you think that matters if the Head being bolted down is what is holding the liner in place
I don't see how the liner can't move anywhere
And if it could move, what .001 how does that induce "Con Rod failure"??

Splain please

Da Smak

The extra gap between the liner and case can only result in the liner expnding more than originally intended, so you get a worse seal between piston and liner (and piston slop, causing the Con rod failures). Also you would suffer fron increased blow by from the ports. My way does not allow either of these and restores the engine to full power again. The squeezer will NEVER allow the engine to run flat out again with the same P/L.