ok I was going to start my car and bash it in my back yard but the engine wont start so i tried to start it for 15 min. then it starts makes a loud noise for 2 sec. and dies it happend 5 times then it started and I left it to idle but the speed was increasing and i noteced some orange/yellow oil lots of it comming out of the pipe ???

any 1 knows whats wrong>???

yeah the carb did not move when the car was increasing speed

You're burning out the excessive amount of ARO you have in the engine.

yeah im kinda a newb so if u can briefly explain it i would appriciat it

Is the motor broken in? If not do you leave fuel in the tank/motor when you store it?

yeah i leave fuel in the tank when i stored it for a week

what fuel do you use(color) - id start by always draining the fuel out of the tank if you store it for a period of time. a week should be ok but no more than that. its hard to tell ? put a new plug in and before you do- leave it out ond crank it over to blow the excess fuel out. then go back to the factory settings and go from there. also try to warm the motor up w/ a heat gun or hair dryier. it does help...200deg.

leaving fuel in the tank even for one night can have adverse effects on your motors internal bearings. Try putting a new plug in it and if that doesnt work still open the motor up and clean it out thoroughly, most likely your bearings are rusted. Not good. Always burn all fuel out of it when done running for the day and use after run oil.

ok i went to pull the pull start and it wont go back in???

does this mean it broke??

ahhh ya that would be a good sign.. [X(] yes its time to get another one or re-wind that one w/ a new coil if that one is shot?

hey were in KUWAIT, i just got back from there, where are you stationed? hey dont replace the pull start dont waste your money, if you take the pull start apart youll find a hex shaped one way ball bearing, its what spins the crank, i think its a 12 millimeter socket that fits it....just use a 1/4 inch drive socket set, 8 inch extension, and a cordless drill, spinning the engine clockwise.......it will usually make it easy to start, thats how i start all my cars.........as for starting problems.......set high and low speed pins to the factory setting, check the bolts that hold the heatsink to the block for tightness, chech the glow plug for tightness, mine wouldnt start for three days, till i found the heatsink bolts were loose, causing no pressure to draw the fuel up into the carbs.......always try fresh glow plugs........if you have long fuel lines, cut down on them, you have all these guys that have all these long A** fuel lines, and just needs more time and vacuum pressure to get the fuel to the carb, Also take off filter, cover air intake with finger, turn flywheel by hand slowly, watching the fuel being drawn throught the lines to the carb, then try starting it. Also ensure the seal at the bottom of your tank isnt letting air into the fuel lines mine did that ones, and last of all, that i can think of, make sure your gas tank lid closes tight, and seals........See it helps the engine run, because the return line that goes from exhaust to fuel tank, isnt really returning un-used fuel.....what its really doing is pressurizing the tank, helping force fuel in to the line to the carbs, while the carbs are also sucking pulling the fuel...........does all this help? let me know, ill check the post for a couple days to answer any other questions you have

SORRY ,TLR but you got some things wrong... first off if you run your motor w/ out a back plate dust and dirt can get into your motor. thats why they make them. if he wants to make it a roto start he can get the roto cover to do this? if it was me id do away w/ the pull and get a cover for it and use a starter box. this is the only way to start nitros in my book. the drill method doesnt turn fast enough to REALLY get it to start good. the roto start turns way faster. OK now as for the fuel lines THEY NEED TO BE LONG it is to get all the air bubbles out before they get to the carb , so DONT cut them and use clear lines so you can see the fuel. then you can tell when the fuel gets to the carb and see if you have an air leak. if you see bubbles then you know if you have an air leak? some people use even longer lines to give it a chance to work the bubbles out and if that dont work then you better check everywhere for a air leak. and as for priming it just put your finger over the exhaust stinger and crank it and it will prime.if you take the filter off and even a piece of dust gets in it can mess that motor up in a hurry. and i bet your hands are not clean when you do this???now that should clear things up and this is comming from someone who knows nitros[>:]

as long as you have a goiod seal at begaining of fuel line, and a good seal at carb, and you ensure the heat sink and glow plugs are sealed, good, you dont have to worry about giving the fuel line long enough to let the bubbles settle, And yes use clear tubing, I DO, u get to see the good fuel flow, Now call me a dirty mechanic if you want.....but i always stick my finger in my mouth, before placing over the carb air intake, and for the crap about dust cover, dont know about yours......but mine has a seal on the back of the crankshaft......that is planty to stop and dirt or crap getting into the motor..........so you dont need to buy fancy block of designs

well you can go through all the HASSEL that you do just to start yours but i got better things to do (like race) than piss w/ the filter and drill and bull. and you can ask any racer how much fuel line you NEED and they will tell you to ...[:-] i have a pull tie on my filter and i shurely wouldnt want to go through the hassel to - put my finger in my mouth and cut the tie and prime the tank and put the filter back on and tie it then finally get the drill out and try to start it.[:'(]

well then again see I DISAGREE WITH , and yes you disagree with me.....because my interest is not in the racing, my part of the hobby is in just purely doing everything,, And guess what i like just as much as running, my cars.....i love the cleanup, i like all levels of the hobby the same, and yes i like to get it started the best way that worked for me..........and know meachanically speaking the most quickest and direct route for air and fuel is the mostappropriate, you dont have to give air bubbles time to settle, if there is no air bubbles, now if you racers dont have attention to detail to ensure trouble/ air free operation exist well guess what continue doing what works for you, but have the hobby is sealling up the low of luel, one you prime the fuel line by spinmning the fly wheel, guess what....theres no reason, for fuel to be getting trapped in your fuel line.....because you ensured a good seal, so if you want to give your air bubbles time to settle by lengthening your fuel line, go ahead...but either way that fuel with the settled air in it will go threw your carb....and you never be able to accurately set up your low/ and high needle needles, because instead of having just fuel coming throught the fuel line, you will have air entering the car throught the fuel and air intake, so then yes youll have to much air to fuel ratio, and yes guess what these aare not V-8 big blocks those few little air bubbles you wanted to settle....yes will be cause to much air over fuel ration burning in your cyclinder.....

bla bla bla bla bla do what works for you .i was just helping the guy and i know this is not a v 8 duhhhhhhh. air does come from other places like your carb , back plate, ect. and the point is bashing or racing the method i stated WILL work for him . by the way how long are your fuel lines on that V8 ?

well a v8 has a fuel pump......Wheres the fuel pump on the RC Car.........thats why you shorting the fuel lines

im mounting it now ,so i can get fuel into my carb .so i dont have to suck on my finger

to busy sucking on other things, to get the car started, huh?

actually they do have a fuel pump.. the exhaust pipe pressure acts as a fuel pump..

*TLR* did you come from camp Doha???