LST Racer

I just bought a XB8 and put a Collari LC21 B7 engine in it and have Hitec Digital servos and a JR XS3 Radio. This is an awsome kit and would like some people to talk about there problems and setups, I guess I want a forum just like I have for my LST. Anyone have any comments?

JonteJsson

Hallo!
There is a forum at the Xray site ..
http://www.teamxray.com/xforum but it would be nice with another whole dedicated site with all news etc. etc.

powder_king

I got my XB8 over christmas and the build was awesome, no problems at all (except for me getting a pull start motor) i have an MX3 transmitter an an OS VZB V-Spec for an engine on order, now all i have to do is wait till spring to run it[&o]

zzman

My Feedback: (3)

great kit huh. you really cant believe the craftsmanship until you build one. one thing you need to make shure you do is line up the spur & bell exactly. i havent had any probs but others do and bend the G clips a bit more so they dont fall out. as always use locktite on all metal to metal screws. go to the forum and start w/ either genes set-up or david joors. the stock set-up is crap.

FreakOfNature

I'm fairly new to the R/C world and after a few weeks with my Hyper 7 RTR, I decided to dive in head first to build a kit. And if I was going to build a kit, I might as well get the best! This kit was easy to put together even for a newbie like me. I'm just running the standard setup right now though and haven't gotten any good tires to put on the wheels yet so I have some cheap Ofna sets on it for now. This thing handles a MILLION times better than my Hyper for sure.

XRay XB8
Novarossi Rex P5
JP-1
Airtronics Servos - 357 Throttle, 358 Steering

livthemoment

sometimes simple paint jobs just look good...

zzman

My Feedback: (3)

and really nice when they get trashed. when you have a $50 paint job you tend to cringe[:@]

LST Racer

Just bought front and rear upper and lower arms, c-hubs, steering knuckles and all turnbuckles and hinge pins, an air filter and 4 wheels. This huge list of spares for only $80. RC-Mushroom is cheap even with $23 Hong Kong Express whatever that means. Another thing is that I am looking for a good set up for a 17 sec indoor short track that is hard clay and has lots of turns and jumps. Any ideas?

LST Racer

I can't tell if my gear mesh is to tight, I put a peice of paper in between the clutch bell and spur gear when installing the engine and then pulled it out after I set the engine without the paper ripping but there is a little noise and slight resistence. I put about 5 tanks through it like this as I broke in my Collari last Sat and everything seems to look fine. What do you think?

cemeb4dk

As long as it doesnt rip the paper, you should be ok, Are your breaks hangin up?

Also Your track I am assuming you are talking about Leisure HOurs a good start is a -1 degree camber to start with.

nitro_D

LOL not making fun but "Rovarossi", thats a pretty cool name. Really catchy.

Model Mania

in my xb8 kit there was a piece of corregated cardboard that set the mesh brilliantly but ive lost it now did anyone else use this for the mesh?

zzman

My Feedback: (3)

"RC-Mushroom is cheap even with $23 Hong Kong Express whatever that means". -thats the more expensive mail and faster but ive used the economic shipping and its only 5 days. just so you know next time and save some cash. ive raced at LH also and im running low to the ground and level. 3,7,1 in the diffs but im gonna try david joor's set up and try the 5,7,3 he said amazingly it had the opposite affect and acted real good. and he said if you want to really dial it in use 5,7,2. and i run 50wt in front and 35wt in back for the shocks. w/1.5 conical pistons.here is what david posted- Here is my rule of thumb, I come with 5/7/3 and look at the track and can tell where I need to go usually out of these combos.

5/7/3 Everywhere
5/7/1 A lot of 180's
5/7/2 Smaller tracks with tighter turns
5/5/3 Rough/Rutted tracks
5/5/5 Experimental, wet tracks with ruts

pcengine

I like to share my experience although I just gave up my XB8 ownership after 3 months weekend practice and raced twice. It is still one of the good buggies in terms of the craftsman and components accuracy. Perhaps my buggy wasn't welcome at my track, it kept breaking those component in its front, lower a arm, knuckle, C hub, hinge pin, front shock. I have to say I wasn't bashing it. It doesn't matter of breaking anything as long as I can get those spare parts easily at affortable price. But it kept irritated me at critical moment.

I would say to keep your pit box with the spare parts of those broken parts I mentioned above. When accident happens at its front, you will lose the whole suspension system at either sides almost all the time. Even though some of the parts may not be seen broken ,damage should have been actually caused inside until it really break sometime later.

This buggy is for gentle driving style, turn smooth at corner, head straight at fast runway, in order to have it finish on a race. So its setup is as important as others do and stock setup is probably for most Europe track as it claimed (maybe for US, if forgot). Find the suitable tires first then start from diff oil setting, 3000 for both center and front is probably a good start. Shocks setting is the 2nd thing that hard at front and soft at rear is probably an all rounded theory. Ride height, camber and toe angle and sway bar thickness are the last consideration to have it riding as you like. Those rest setting will take your time to test.

For option, you may consider to replace the stock front torque bar which the ball joint will lose or the plastic may even break. Proline wing that fit as well, is probably stronger enough to against bent. Can use front bumper at rear as well. Clutch system just like Werks may be good choice to save clutch bell for going back to stock clutch somedays later.

For regular maintenance, check diff bearings and clutch bell bearings at every twice race days, servo saver bearings at every 4 race days, wheel hub bearings at every 6 race days, all ball joints at every 8 race days. Replace when it binds. I don't recommend on cleaning though it saves some bux. Remind that it is just a rough figure.

zzman

My Feedback: (3)

sorry to hear of your loss. i have broke F&R arms as well but they were only $4 ea. and they were both my fault. id say the arms do break easier than most. but, im glad they broke instead of the more expensive parts. im still playing w/ the set-ups and im close to having it dialed. i hope this bug works for me as well? if it dont then ill just get another that i think will suit my needs. thats the thing there are sooooo many out there for every aspect of the driver and tracks that sometimes its just trial and error. which might just cost a bit to find out.

FreakOfNature

hahahah Totally missed that typo. It's fixed now.

manilaheli

My 2 cents,

I agree with some of the experiences with pcengine...

Off power driving style doesn't suit it (full throttle and braking at turns). It's best to use a on-power style of handling the throttle most common to onroad nitro cars. I'm currently still changing to this driving style so naturally I know I won't be competative until I can.

I've also accumulated lots of damage on the XB8 which seems unique (doesn't show up on other buggies) like breaking turnbuckles and hinge pins. The flywheels are notoriously easy to crack, and the clutchbell hits the chassis due to the low engine placement and more chassis flex. The spur gear also is more prone to damage if you don't get the gear mesh done correctly. The radio tray also doesn't keep out dirt as I wou;d have wished and the body shell holes on the engine don't really match.

That said, the drivetrain of the XB8 is still the best I've seen, they don't wear out as fast as others, my uni's and diff gears are all in very good shape as I'm still using the originals with no noticable slop on any of them.

Booyah

Couple of new hop ups from King headz

Extended engine mounts:


Radio Tray:

zzman

My Feedback: (3)

not bad but ill stick to my fiber tray. i like it and it looks sweeet!

pcengine

KH claimed the additional screw for their engine mount is an option How to gain the claimed rigidity without screwing the extended end on to chassis? [X(]

lstmanuk

What engines can you put in it? as in what is the biggest?

thanks

Da Smak

for racing it's a .21. But there are now .70s that will fit. But they are well thirsty.

pcengine

another coming one piece engine mount