Nitromitry

Hi Guys
I've got a WS7 II in a Ofna 9.5 pro. I got the engine to run at 245 F and it goes like HELL!!!!!
The bottum end is not as crisp as the other buggies at the track. I've put a 14T clutch bell with blue ali lightend clutch using black springs from FastTracks. It sounds like it "changes" gear. Someone told me at the track that my bottum end was to lean, richend it up and it improved alot. Still not as chrisp as Hyper 7 pro engine or os v-spec.
CAN this be improved ??????????
I'm open for advice!!
Thanks

SManMTB

13T bell?

Nitromitry

It had a 16T when i got it, I've put a 14T on now.
I'm also usind a Ofna 086 pipe if that will make a diff???

econ909

Has anyone ran the LRP.28 yet? I was wondering how it ripps compared to like a mach 26, or wasp 26. How is the tuning also? Does it hold a good tune or is it like the wasp 26 where u have to keep the idle a little high so it doesnt quit on ya if u give it half throttle and let off. Im running the wasp 26 in my hotbodies truggy right now but want a little more for the track(novarossi 28 is getting me in the straights).

Thanx for the info in advance

EB4man

RB engines like it lean on top and rich on the bottom. there is also a race tune and a bash tune.. you also need a late engaging clutch.. 1.1 springs with black shoes works. Thats a MUST to start with!! I don't count screw adjustments anymore so this is how you want it to run for a baseline race tune... when the engines hot and you pull in...the idle should hover high for a few seconds and then drop down to a nice purrr....it will eventually load up and die...maybe 10 secs or so. so it will need to be blipped to keep it cleared and from stalling. When its ran this way...it should make explosive power....just like mine.Try to tune the LSN to get those results and see what happens..Then on the HSN.. I lean mine out in small increments till she stalls when I nail it..and then start backing off till it will stay running full throttle and then go slightly more for insurance...lol Make sure there is good smoke dumping out the exhaust when it accelerates full throttle. The screws should be in the neighborhood of 5-6 out on the LSN and 3-4 out on the HSN. you can lean the LSN so it will idle better for bashing. And don't try to tune the engine by temperature... Watch and listen carefully!! It should sound smooth, run like a bat out of hell and dump smoke!! Did you buy this engine new and was it broken in properly?? And how much fuel is ran through it??

sh0wtime

the 086 is classed as a topend pipe by many!
what length header are you running? try a long header! if you still think it needs more bottom try thr 9863 type pipe as thats a low to mid pipe & thought of by many to be the best all round pipe with this engine
i agree with the richer bottom end & leaner top for the WS7II as it will bog low down when hot otherwise!

engineguru

The 086 pipe contrary to what many may think has more torque and more bottom end than the 063 on the RB engines. This is not my opinion- stated by RB Concept Team Drivers.

Nitromitry

It must be the clutch then, because it idle highish and then boggs down to low idle and does die if not reved. It always smokes on high revs but richend it up a bit when i saw the temp being 296 F. Running smooth at 240-250 F. Can I still use the aluminium clutch shoes with Mugen 1.1 mm springs?[] I got 2 sets of springs with the clutch black and goldish.
I bought the engine off ebay, the compresion is not awesame but there is still compresion.
Where can I buy piston, liner and conrod AND how much will that set me back. (Mail order if possible).
Thanks EB4man!!!!!!

Hellmutt

I dont run the ws7II but I have ran beside one and my new sh 2004xb has a very similar powerband, similar raspy engine sound...both are nice motors. I originally ran a .63 pipe because thats what I had used with my nova and it matched up well. The sh engine didnt like the low end pipe so much, so I tried an 86 pipe and wow, what a difference. More low end power (even though its a mid/high pipe)...and lots more top end. I get my low end torque from late clutch engagement, also the low end is cruddy until it fully heats up. Mine likes to run at 250-255 when race tuned using 20% nitro. Anyway the ws7II should have plenty of throttle pop once you find a way to make it happy ~Goodluck!~

EB4man

The 086 pipe makes more power everywhere and the long header adds a little down low... I don't reccomend the aluminum shoes.. you can try them and see how they work with the 1.1 springs but I would pick up a set of the black shoes. How many seconds does it idle high for before it drops down?? As for the piston, liner, and conrod.. I dunno have not had to rebuild mine yet...go to the RB Concept website and poke around and they have an awesome forum for thier engines. Alot of info on there.

Nitromitry

Idles for about 10 - 15 sec and then dies. I ordered the 1.1 mm springs today. I heard that the aluminium shoes have better bite, I had black carbon shoes on there from Hong Nor and the one shoes broke where it hinges after a tank!! Just thouhgt the ali ones wouldn't break? Witch carbon shoes would you reccomend?

killer89

My Feedback: (-1)

go to a 13t bell... anyone that runs a 14t on a Ws7 is crazy...

EB4man

If the Mugen shoes fit go with those... as for the engine..it sounds a little too rich, try leaning it slightly.. it should idle high for anywhere between 3 and 6 seconds..then it should drop to a nice low idle... then eventually yeah, it will die if the throttle is not blipped a little.

EB4man

its not crazy...it depends on the conditions. I run at places where I use a 15T. Alot of traction requires a smaller bell.. when its real slick..like hard baseball diamonds in the summer...you can use the larger ones with great succes... plus you get a higher top speed..

killer89

My Feedback: (-1)

and burn your clutch to hell...

EB4man

a clutch will only burn up if it slips and that can happen with ANY size bell...so I suppose you burned up a clutch because it wasn't set-up right....

zimzalahbim

My Feedback: (8)

i think you will find that the "no low end power" of the WS7II can be cured with aluminum shoes with 1.0 springs. at least that seems to have cured the issue with mine.

Nitromitry

OK!!!!!
I've put Mugen 1.1 mm springs with aluminium shoes and it still not much better!!! I richend the LSN and there was an improvement, I carried on untill it didn't want to idle anymore, and then turned it back slightly.
Its much better but I think it should be allot better!!!!!!!!! I bought the engine off ebay and it you look into the exhaust port, you can see its "burnt" redish brown. The compresion is also NOT to great. Can this be the cause?? When it get hot(after 1-2 tanks) it does not idle. Then I have to keep the trottle open, and then only after 2 sec. it starts and dies again if I don't keep it reving!!
HELP!?!?!?!?!?!?[:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@]

everspeed

Try running your engine a little cooler by richening up the HSN. If it's got much wear on it, then much above 240 degress will cause the sleeve to expand more, and ceate even more blow by which will cause an engine to loose it's bottom end. Even a new engine, if it gets hot enough will start bogging some at lower RPM's. And an engine with some wear on it will start to bog at even lower temps. Also, what fuel type are you running? Nitro percentage, and tpye? And what glow plug?

Nitromitry

Blue thunder 25%, RB6 plug, 245 F(temp)

Nitromitry

It runs like MAD on top end, smokes and does not over heat. Even start first tme!
I'm planning on running this engine for another 3 months and then re-doing it, just hope that will solve the problem!
I've got a S7 that I am going to put in my other 9.5 pro, but waiting for clutch and bell. I will comare the 2, but that only next week if i'm lucky![]

SKYLINE350GT

Yea that's why they sell the WS7II Combo witha RB 9863 Pipe and long header.

killer89

My Feedback: (-1)

13t bell...

turbopwr

Actually I believe the WS 7 II likes the 053 the best. I have that combo with the rich LSN , and Fiorroni sliding clutch and the bottom is not not that bad, not like a P5 but not that bad. In my opinion though the WS7II motor is more of a open track motor.

EB4man

Switch those aluminum shoes to Kyosho or Mugen blacks!! Thats most important. The aluminum shoes are prolly gettin hot and starting to bind causing it to want to stall! When its hot and you stop, it should idle high for 3-4 secs and then drop down and then stall after like 10 secs without clearing it out. The engine is an open track engine and likes to scream but still has plenty of low end grunt for small tracks. All it takes is the right tune!! Its real similar to setting up a 1/4 mile drag car, If the car likes to leave the line at 3500 rpm and the clutch/converter engages at 1500 rpm its going to bog,sputter, and not go anywhere....lol but if it engages at 3500 where it makes power...it will burn rubber and haul. That is most likely your problem. I would never use aluminum shoes, metal on metal creates nothing but heat, but thats just me. Turbopwr...have you tried an 086 combo with long header? Who sells a combo with the pipe? RB doesn't sell a combo so I assume its a hobby store who put together a combo to make it more appealing...