rc car CRAZY

i have my sh 28 engine finally and im not sure how to run it in.

The manual says to run it in with LESS than 20% nitro, and to turn it on, leave it for 10 secs, then put it round slowly for 3 mins and then stop the car. Leave it for 10 mins and turn the hsn 1/8 turn leaner and repeat the process. To do this for about 45 mins so it will be fully vbroken in and to run the engine a bit rich.

My good rc mate says to run it with MORE than 20% fuel during run in and to let it idle for about 7 tanks without letting fuel run out. Then slowly for 4 tanks, and then you can drive it normal and tune it.

Which one is better as ther completely opposit

ps its a size 28 engine lol.

Ben

eb4_boy

I say that the second ones sounds like better advice than the first. Does he know his stuff then?

ttr_dude

yes i think he does li

rc car CRAZY

Lol, i think he 2nd guys advice is dumbass, lol. I hope he doesnt read this


Im only kiddin.

Ben

rc car CRAZY

Comeone people this threads been here for 3 hours allready.
if the 1st 1 is the way to go im goin to run it in with 10%
ben

ps. eb4_boy is the guy with the 2nd run in advice.

Super_Dave

The manufacture specs are always the way to go. When testing their engines thats the way they break them in. Never run over 20% nitro for break in. More nitro = more power and of corse more power = more stress on engine parts. I do know people who have broken in on 30% and the motors don't last anywhere near as long as they should or make as much power as compaired to the same motor I broke in on 20% nitro. If you can get 15% nitro use that and go by manufacture break in specs but 20% will work well too. All engine manufactures also recomend not going to a lower nitro % after you were at a higher % (don't run 30% then go back down to 20%). I've never seen someone at the track have a problem doing it but I have heard of people getting tuning problems.

Engrose

Idle for seven tanks?? I've never heard of an engine that would benefit from that!

But I have heard several times that you should use the same fuel for break-in as you will use later. Apart from that, it seems like the first method is the one to follow.

ruffian

I broke my RS5 in on 30% and ran it on the ground from the first drop. 4 cycles of 3 minute runs varying the throttle and getting temps up to 190-210 dgrs. Then cooling with piston at BDC. After the 4 cycles I ran another 4 cycles at 4 minutes repeating the same as before. I've put about 6 gallons through it and it's still strong as hell. I'm about to replace the con-rod so I can make sure it doesn't let go. I've been told to replace them about every 3-4 gallons to ensure they're rebuildable down the road.

rc car CRAZY

This is hard, your all saying run it in with less that 20% and hes saying do it with 30%. It says on my manual, do no more thstn 30% ever.

Ben

eb4_boy

You may never of heard of anyone idling for 7 tanks, put i think i should know. My m8 has run engines for 23 years and the way he does it, 3 years or more running for each engine no parts replaced in the engine. I think it does work my friend. So its a good benefit.

Liam

ruffian

I'm not telling you what you should do. This is just what I do and it's worked well for me. I'm by no means an expert but this method has treated me well for a while now. I started using the Bess heat cycle method about 4 engines ago and haven't turned back. I run my engines in the 230-235 range after break-in and have had very long life out of my motors. Well except for an RG I lost the filter on and didn't realize it. [X(] I do notice that a lot of people seem to run there LSN way too lean. If you start your car up cold and it runs like a raped ape your too lean. It should be a bit sluggish until you get it up to normal operating temps.

Dsavin

"It should be a bit sluggish until you get it up to normal operating temps"

This is the best advice anyone can offer and a mistake often made by many people. Tuning should be done small increments fat to lean and on a race temp engine. I'd go as far as saying that the car should still be slightly sluggish (Rich bottom end) on a 5 minute qualifier. Because after 10 mins in a final it should be right on note?..... unless your compotent enough to make a minor adjustment between heats and qualifiers to allow for this. IE slightly leaner for 5 minute heat, Richen up to compensate 10minutes or more finals.

Nitro percentage during break in. Use the fuel you would normally use, dont buy a lower nitro for break in. I agree that you shouldn't go backwards in nitro content but i dont agree that 30% nitro cant be used during break in. Why,
1 it's oil % that you should be concerned about and not the nitro content. More oil = more lubrication.
2 People are saying use the heat cycle method and dont be afraid of getting engine temps in to the 200C. As long as the engine is in the 200C what difference does nitro content make? Heat is the build up based on the revs & friction. If the engine is not getting into the 200's spead it up slightly & vice versa if it's over 205 - 210. I bet if the engine is ticking over slowly on 30% nitro it wont get into the 200C range?

I always heat my engines with a heat gun during the first stages of break in. It loosens then piston & Liner a little therefore reducing stress on the conrod when the piston reaches tdc

I dont think there is a right or wrong way? I just think good quality fuel, Patience & a light throttle finger are the keys to breaking in engines but everyone has " there way ".