Podrelease

Hi,
I've already got an LST shacked up, I'm really hoping the Hyper 7 does'nt go the same way.

I've bought it from Ebay a few days ago and I've only just tried to start it - what a nightmare! I've got the UK PBS model with the better starter box. I checked the forums for info and made sure I aligned the car, loosened the Glowplug, heated the engine and started from BDC. For the first few attempts all I did was burn rubberfrom the starter belt then it started to bite and run!

I thought this was great but I can't get it to stay at idle, as soon as the pressure on the car is lifted it dies. Even if I'm revving the engine, when the throttle drops near 10% it dies again - so it has'nt evenbeen of the starter box yet.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated as that's around £700 spent on Nitro RC and no running car yet.

Thanks again.

rc car CRAZY

Check your idle position at closing, there should be a 1mm gap. If there isnt fiddle around with the idle screw.
If this isnt the cause then you might need to re tune it.

Ben

rc car CRAZY

Also could I have a ebay link to look at.

Ben

Podrelease

Thanks, I'll have a look at that now. Should it be the case that once started it should sit nicely at idle? The LST is faultless at doing this.

Here's the link of the car I bought.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...MEWN%3AIT&rd=1

rc car CRAZY

Its a nice deal, looks like he kept good care of it. When it starts up it should just idle but wen on the starter boz you may get a slight bit of wheel spin.

Ben

rc car CRAZY

do you know if the enginer has been run in yet.

Ben

Hyper7PCRMan

I suspect your engine need new sleeve and piston. You can grab flywheel if it loose, it mean bad.

Podrelease

Im going to have a breakdown if this needs a new sleeve and piston. The compression seems really firm - absolutey no way of getting the piston to roll over by hand. Is the starter belt meant to have any teth on it to grip the fly wheel? If I rectically take the plug out it clocks over NP, but slight compression and the flywheel just sticks and starts shredding rubber -this is even after a good 2 mins with a hairdryer to loosen things up. I feel totally demoralised and frustrated.

The glowplug is good - fuel is pumping. If I could just get it to start and idle once I'de be happy with it. The last few tries have resulted in nothing at all, not even a slight start or bite.

Podrelease

Sorry Ben, yes the engine has been run in by previous owner.

rc car CRAZY

so check the idle screw. If you have a lot of resistance then it probably means that the piston and conrod are fien, When it gets hard to turn does it feel like there is something in the way, and it cant seem to move the object or does it incease in pressure. If it cant seem to move the object your engine mite be blown

Ben

Podrelease

I checked the idle screw it did seem a less than a mm so re adjusted it. I can definitely fell a build up in compression rather than a blockage / con rod failure. If I can get it running then I'm gonna be buzzin - I can then maybe go about installing a roto-start plate as I find this on the LST much easier.

rc car CRAZY

Yeah give it aother try and when u get it running leave the glo starter in for about 10 secs to get the engine running and then try to get it running, you know how the clutch works dont you and that you have to get it to a certian rpms to get it running.

Ben

r/c cracker101

be sure to tighten ur glowplug back down the engine wont idle without completley tightend

Da Smak

OK it looks pretty new from the pics, even the manifold looks clean.

So,

Reset the screws to this (just leaner than factory)
Idle = 1mm gap
MSN = 1/2 turn in from flush
LSN = 3 turns out from closed (Watch you dont move the MSN when setting this one)
HSN = 3 turns out from closed

It should now run a bit boggy and stall if you blip the throttle. I recommend the OS #8 plugs for this mill with 25 % nitro, the plug will lower the compression a bit but this will not affect the timing too much.

let it run for about five mins at Idle, if it does this ok then shut it off and let it cool for 5 mins at BDC. Do this for the rest of the tank (this is a precaution as the mill is already broken in).

Next wind in both LSN and HSN 1/4 turn. This will allow you to run it around without stalling, it will still be rich and accel/top end wont quite be there but it will run without citting out.

Next tweak the LSN to set the accel of the line, it may sound boggy at the mid to top but that's next.

Now time to set the HSN, 1/8th turns clockwise till you find the speed at which it run with a nice smoke trail.

The key is the smoke, you should always be able to see some, NO SMOKE MEANS NO LUBRICATION. That is when you'll throw the rod.

Podrelease

Thanks for all the advice so far, nice instuctions Alex - I'll try all this tomorrow. Got to get this baby on the go - the Wife has been watching me from the start with it. I just know she's gonna pop real soon as I've 'dedicated' myself to the Hyper for the last couple of days [>:]

BILKO1

Correct me if i'm wrong but i thought moving the msn was a big no no. If you do move it you have to remove the hsn and housing then with the msn flush move it till one of the 4 holes lines up that you will see through the hsn housing hole.

Da Smak

Moving the MSN is no big deal when your seting it up to start. It doesnt matter where the holes are as there is a space around the MSN to allow all 4 holes to provide fuel to the throat.

Once you've set the MSN it is ADVISABLE not to touch it again as it WILL affect the idle, LSN and HSN settings. What I do is set it up as I said then silicone it in place. This not only holds it in place but seals it up properly as when these mills where new they had a problem with the o rings perishing, just something I never got out of the habit of doing.

Now if your engine suffers a mid range dip in accel this is when a tweak of the MSN can help. BUT you will need to fatten up the LSN and HSN a tadge and by doing this it may affect the idle. The reason they say NEVER touch the MSN is because folk dont adjust the other needles to compensate and end up leaning out their engines inadvertantly.

Hope that squares you away Bilko.

hyper701

when u say MSN = 3 turns out from closed, do u mean wind it in till it stops then wind it out, or 3 turns out from flush

Podrelease

I've only just got round to working on the Hyper again. Tet to the levels stated by Alex but a little too lat to run so I'll try tomorrow. I recorded the needle settings that I received the car by. They were: LSN 3 1/2 turns out. HSN 3 1/8th turns out and MSN was 2 1/2 turns out from flush. Lets hope this baby kick in tomorrow. Thanks again for all the advice so far .

Da Smak

HYPER701 !!!! PLEASE read it again with a little more attention this time maybe. It meas what it says.

Pod, let us know after, eh?

MassiveMods

It should now run a bit boggy and stall if you blip the throttle. I recommend the OS #8 plugs for this mill with 25 % nitro, the plug will lower the compression a bit but this will not affect the timing too much.

How does the plug lower compression ?

hyper701

sorry dude, i didnt mean to piss u off, its just that everyone says different ways of doing it, u r the only one that says to do it like that, anyway i tried it and it worked 4 me thanks, but there is no need to get mad

Podrelease

Tried the settings - wow. messed up or what? I adjusted the MSN, HSN and LSN as stated. The result was some sort of total binding to the point that the LSN locked up in the carb. Also with this setting the idle gap was more like 7-8 mm, and max adjustment on the idle screw only resulted in a couple of mm's movement either way.

Nothing was happening so I left all the needles the same bar the MSN - which I put to the setting that I received the car in. The same thing happended the Hyper Starter box just could'nt turn the flywheel over and a whole load of other rubber sreddings from the belt. I don't get it? How can they say that this Starter box is made specifically for the 7? It's too weak and thats with it running of a 12v source. Turning my Mach 26 over with a rotorstart is simply p**s compared to this.

Got out the hairdryer and then tried again - no joy. I did this for around 2 hours - just hoping for a start but all I got was burnt rubber - from the wrong thing - the starter belt!

So I bought the gear inside and thought hey, 'one more time' pushed down on the car and bang! It starts! then dies - by now I've got a living room full of poison but I was totally buzzing. Took it all outside again and got a few more starts and stalls, but no idle. Kinda upbeat that it started but for every start their were 20 attempts with no engine turn over and I still could'nt get it to idle. I still cant suss out why the Starter Box finds it so difficult to turn the engine - no flooding but still no turn over. The compression still feels strong but this is not a new engine. Granted, the MSN may be totally out of whack I need to get it to what Alex said - but not sure how - tried to but the binding kicks in.

What are alternatives? Pull-start? I really don't like the idea of another Starter Box - think I've got a phobia after this one.

When I dropped some after-run oil in the engine I noticed tiny brass particles around the glowplug. Is this normal for an engine which is'nt new? Not sure what to do next. I even contemplating selling this and buying a new Pullstart 7 - but thinking about it thats seems a little dimlo.

Hyper7PCRMan

You can bring your RC to near your hobby store. They will help you and solve problem.

Da Smak

Hey I wasn't mad, just hoping you'd read it again and see your mistake. [8D]

Anyway, glad it worked for you as other so-called experts (Showtime for instance) is dead set against this method and has gone all out to prove it wrong in the past. So another satisfied buggiest has their motor running sweetly once again and I'm pleased to hear it.

Now get your behind away from the screen and rag that mill.