does your hyper break suck?
#7
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From: gladstone, AUSTRALIA
i think its the servo, it doesnt seem to pull on verry well. also whats this about the fuel line, can u expline a little better, any pics?
#8
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From: , OH
Put some short pieces of fuel tubing between the collar and the brake arm. You can also put some small washers between the tubing and arms. It softens the initial hit of the brakes, and makes for more controllable braking.
#9
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From: North of the, , UNITED KINGDOM
My hyper BREAKS really do suck, they are way to short and I'm called upon to get back to work far too soon.
On the other hand my hyper BRAKES are brill they will lock up the wheels with the stock servo quite happilly. Check your pad gap.
On the other hand my hyper BRAKES are brill they will lock up the wheels with the stock servo quite happilly. Check your pad gap.
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From: gladstone, AUSTRALIA
ok, ok, i think we all do
what is the pad gap and how wide should it be
what is the pad gap and how wide should it be
ORIGINAL: everspeed
I have the same experiences Alex.
I have the same experiences Alex.
#12
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From: North of the, , UNITED KINGDOM
I like to hold the pads squashed up to the disks, wind in the screws till they just touch and then back them out 1/4 turn. This should give you 0.25mm of play and allow the car to role along in neutral without the brakes binding.
#13
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From: Fort Huachuca,
AZ
ORIGINAL: had enough
the stock brakes work fine,,,yours maybe need adjustment.
I was running the 4-disk system for a while, I'm running Craddock's now.
The both worked great when adjusted right
the stock brakes work fine,,,yours maybe need adjustment.
I was running the 4-disk system for a while, I'm running Craddock's now.
The both worked great when adjusted right
btw I'm running the 4 disc setup with a Futaba S9350 (133oz tq) and it locks em up and drags front end. I'm currently trying to get my front brakes to grab less. I want to be able to brake and turn.
#14
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From: gladstone, AUSTRALIA
well there u go, shows how much i know[&:] i didnt even know u could adjust the BREAKS

ORIGINAL: Uberchav Alex
I like to hold the pads squashed up to the disks, wind in the screws till they just touch and then back them out 1/4 turn. This should give you 0.25mm of play and allow the car to role along in neutral without the brakes binding.
I like to hold the pads squashed up to the disks, wind in the screws till they just touch and then back them out 1/4 turn. This should give you 0.25mm of play and allow the car to role along in neutral without the brakes binding.
#16

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ORIGINAL: zr1s10
What are craddocks?
btw I'm running the 4 disc setup with a Futaba S9350 (133oz tq) and it locks em up and drags front end. I'm currently trying to get my front brakes to grab less. I want to be able to brake and turn.
What are craddocks?
btw I'm running the 4 disc setup with a Futaba S9350 (133oz tq) and it locks em up and drags front end. I'm currently trying to get my front brakes to grab less. I want to be able to brake and turn.
It is very hard to set the car up with enough bias to allow you to have much turning while braking unless you are on a super high traction track
You really should think about geting you braking doen before you need to turn. I have mine set up as good as I can and under full brake, the car wil still push.
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From: London, UNITED KINGDOM
I had a problem with my x1 cr brakes, found that cutting a small amount of the pad away where the springs would touch the pad helped huge. the springs were not compressing enough to let the pads grab the disc properly.



