well this question is for the true blue ttr dudes. we held our championship race this labor day weekend and the track was hard packed and bumpy. i ran the 1/8th scale sportsman class with my s3 and man what a handful all weekend it was so loose in the rear and man that thing was hoping around like something fearse!!! we tried alot of different things like shock possition oils camber position and lenghts ans so forth. it got a little better but was still a handful. i know the tires i was runnin wernt the greatest treadz jolly is what i was runnin and they lacked forward bite but the track after the 18th expert a main left the track very bumpy and rutted i started the a main 10th and finished the 1/2 hour main 4th. thats not bad but what a handful. well now im pondering the idea of the flat chassis do any of you ttr guys run it yet and if so is it a good upgrade? i mainly run on bumpy tracks I NEED HELP WITH THIS!!!! i love the ttr but cant stand how the ass end bounces and washes out. my new collari inotek 380 was more than fast enogh to take any other buggy on the sraight but i couldnt keep the power to the ground and that sucks.[:@][]

OK what you need to do now is change your shock piston from the TTR to Mugens or xrays as a first step
and regarding the flat chassie it run great but again its nota direct fit you will need some grinding to be done and im facing only one issue with it that the engine is to high i tryed starting it with 3-4 non of them worked so what i did got a bigger flywheel and made the hole bigger to start it but again no use i ended up using the hand held bumpstart

Use mugen pistons drilled to 1.6mm (2 holes) with 35wt oil front 30 back with red springs, if still a real handful try mugen grey springs, this will solve you problems at ones . If you have any other questions just ask and will try and answer for you.

Liam

thanks guys but whats the mugen pistons do soften the damping?

Roscoe....do your self a favor and get the Flat Chassis.....well worth the money....every since I changed to the flat chassis I have been able to drive the car harder through the rough sections of the track without having to worry if the car is going to get upset or not. I used to run the Mugen pistons but have switched back to the stock ones. I have been running the flat chassis for about 5 months now.

Try the mugen pistons first with the stock chassis and see what you think, the damping is alot smoother and rides the bumps better.

Liam

OK I dont own or run a ttr S4 but as a general rule, I go by: If the trac is bumpy, With 1.5mm holes in the pistons, if you firm up the spring rating and run thinner oil the shocks, ensuring the rears are a lower weight oil to the front, something like 30 front and 25 rear then the bug will glide the rough stuff with the suspension able to act quick enough that the shock will compress before it pushes the chasis up, i.e. not kicking the back end from side to side as you hit every bump.

[link=http://www.rcpics.net/media/Bash_2.wmv]In this Vid you can see how the suspension will work with this setting.[/link]

Right click and "SAVE AS"

thanks to al of you guys for the info. im gonna try the mugen pistons and mugen springs front and rear and try 25 in the front and 30 in the rear with thin swaybars.i moved my shocks in one hole on the rear tower and lengthend my rear links befor the a main and whent from 40 weight oil to 35 in the rear and that helped i really also think the treadz jolly tire was not the right choise for the track conditions i probley should of used proline dirty harrys or comodo 2 panthers. i also started the weekend with 5000 in the rear diff and changed to 2000 that also helped on the straights. if all else fails then the flat chassis is on the order list i have a nother big trophy race oct. 1st. that track is much larger with very long straights. its not as bumpy but it does have its rough spots so im gonna use all of the above set up info you guys gave me and see if it works. once again thanks this really helps me alot!!!!