Problem with lx comp diff
#1
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From: Massapequa,
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I am a noobie so cut me some slack and please help. I had a problem with my lx comp it was just revving and not going anywhere. So I just replaced the clutch and had the same problem. The guys at my hobbie shop said that my front diff wasnt working properly because when they would spin the front wheels only one wheel would spin instead of both. They said that the wheel that wasnt spinning was making the engine rev higher because all power was being transferred there. They told me to diassemble the diff and see what could be wrong. I didn't see anything broken or striped but I am noobie so I really wasnt sure what to look for. I reassembled everything and still had same problem so I disassembled it again and realized there was a small allen screw which I went ahead and tightened. Now the buggy runs but did i change a setting? Now both front when spun spin in the same direction when spun by hand. Is this normal or should I buy a new diff?
#3
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I already took it apart but didnt see any damage on the gears. When I reasembled it and spun the left side dog bone cup the right did not spin but when i spun the right side dog bone cup the left did spin. When I locked down the allen screw the entire diff spun but in the same direction. If I take it apart what ekse should i look for?
#4
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From: Queen Creek,
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Well, I don't own a LX Comp so its hard to say exactly. I looked up the manual on OFNA's site, and found two possibilities. Either you tightened the little grub screw on the side of the plastic case, or you tightened one of the four hex screws that hold the large square like cap piece of the differential to the circular differential body.
If it was the grub screw you tightnened, my only guess is that the locking pin had come out, and you pushed it back into place by tightening the screw.
If it was one of the four hex screws, you probably tightened down the diff case, which helped to align the gears better. That doesn't mean over tighten to achieve alignment. There are shims in the diff for this purpose. Just make sure its tight enough to where you can't use the small end of an L-shaped allen wrench to get it loose. You should still be able to loosen it when using the large end of an allen wrench without any add on pieces/tools for leverage.
To check and see if your diff is working properly depends on where it is right now. If it is in your hand, simply hold one outdrive, and try to spin the other one. You should not be able to, unless the gear assembly tries to spin too. The only way you should be able to have both outdrives spin, without the main gear trying to rotate would be by spinning them in opposite directions.
Similar method if the diff is already back in the car. Set the car on a table with the body off and the front wheels hanging off the edge of the table. Spin one wheel, and one of two things should happen. Either:
1.) The other wheel spins the opposite way, driveshaft connecting front diff to center diff sits still (center shaft does not rotate)
2.) The other wheel sits still or spins the same way, center driveshaft rotates
If you get results other than this, something is wrong.
Also, it should be equally easy to spin either wheel. If one end binds, check the bearings on the diffs and the hub carriers (by wheels), then the drive axles, then check the diffs for broken/worn parts.
If it was the grub screw you tightnened, my only guess is that the locking pin had come out, and you pushed it back into place by tightening the screw.
If it was one of the four hex screws, you probably tightened down the diff case, which helped to align the gears better. That doesn't mean over tighten to achieve alignment. There are shims in the diff for this purpose. Just make sure its tight enough to where you can't use the small end of an L-shaped allen wrench to get it loose. You should still be able to loosen it when using the large end of an allen wrench without any add on pieces/tools for leverage.
To check and see if your diff is working properly depends on where it is right now. If it is in your hand, simply hold one outdrive, and try to spin the other one. You should not be able to, unless the gear assembly tries to spin too. The only way you should be able to have both outdrives spin, without the main gear trying to rotate would be by spinning them in opposite directions.
Similar method if the diff is already back in the car. Set the car on a table with the body off and the front wheels hanging off the edge of the table. Spin one wheel, and one of two things should happen. Either:
1.) The other wheel spins the opposite way, driveshaft connecting front diff to center diff sits still (center shaft does not rotate)
2.) The other wheel sits still or spins the same way, center driveshaft rotates
If you get results other than this, something is wrong.
Also, it should be equally easy to spin either wheel. If one end binds, check the bearings on the diffs and the hub carriers (by wheels), then the drive axles, then check the diffs for broken/worn parts.
#5
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From: Massapequa,
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kx250ryder,
Thanks for responding so quick. As of right now I have both wheels spinning in the same direction when the buggy is in the air and I spin one wheel. I am going to disassemble again and see what happens.
Thanks
Thanks for responding so quick. As of right now I have both wheels spinning in the same direction when the buggy is in the air and I spin one wheel. I am going to disassemble again and see what happens.
Thanks
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From: Queen Creek,
AZ
That is fine, as long as the center driveshaft is rotating too. Manually hold your center shaft still and spin one wheel. As long as your other wheel rotates in the opposite direction, and you don't hear any grinding noises and the action feels smooth, chances are you probably have it done right. Diffs aren't designed to be difficult to build.



