Reciever battery?
#1
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From: Coral Gables,
FL
I have a OFNA hyper 7 PCR RTR, and i want to get a rechargebl reciever battery for it. On towerhobbies the best ones look like the team orion 1600mah ones, but there all out of stock, but im going to wait for them, but the problem is they make 3 different configurations
Standard hump
1/8 on-road stick
1/8 off-road hump
Which one of these will work with the PCr RTR? The car came with 2 battery holders, and i dont know what there each for.
Standard hump
1/8 on-road stick
1/8 off-road hump
Which one of these will work with the PCr RTR? The car came with 2 battery holders, and i dont know what there each for.
#2
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From: Barboursville,
VA
The long narrow holder is for a 5 cell flat pack with the cells in a line that you zip tie into the holder. The boxy shaped one is for a 5 cell hump pack with 2 cells on top of 3 cells which you zip tie to the holder. It really doesn't matter configuration you use just get a battery pack to fit in them.
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From: St. Erhard, SWITZERLAND
#5
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From: Coral Gables,
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Well i measured it and i dont think the stick one will fit in the stick holder, it isnt long enough, or am i wrong. if you look at the measurments none of the Stick packs will fit in it?
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From: St. Erhard, SWITZERLAND
I used to have a Hyper 7. I put the stick pack into the RC Box. Of course the stick is longer, so I drilled a hole into the box at the front.
The stick stuck out a bit of the RC-Box then and I just sealed the box with goop. The receiver (Spektrum, so not the smallest) still did fit above the battery (cushioned with foam of course).
This surely gave the car a much better CG and cleaned it up optically. The guy I've sold my Hyper to still uses it like that.
But if you have a good charger, want to save weight, have better runtimes, don't want to cut open your RC box, check out the link I wrote on my above post. If not, don't.
The stick stuck out a bit of the RC-Box then and I just sealed the box with goop. The receiver (Spektrum, so not the smallest) still did fit above the battery (cushioned with foam of course).
This surely gave the car a much better CG and cleaned it up optically. The guy I've sold my Hyper to still uses it like that.
But if you have a good charger, want to save weight, have better runtimes, don't want to cut open your RC box, check out the link I wrote on my above post. If not, don't.
#11
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From: Brookings,
OR
ORIGINAL: SN VipeR
But if you have a good charger, want to save weight, have better runtimes, don't want to cut open your RC box, check out the link I wrote on my above post. If not, don't.
But if you have a good charger, want to save weight, have better runtimes, don't want to cut open your RC box, check out the link I wrote on my above post. If not, don't.
For one thing, you have to have the right charger, one specifically designed to handle LiPo batteries... otherwise, they can catch fire/explode. It is also advised to observe the batteries while charging so as to be able to react in the event of a problem.
Second, LiPo cells are rated at 3.7v per cell, with two cells being rated at 7.4v. Typical servos are rated for 4.8-6.0 volts. That means one cell isn't enough, and I really don't know if the servos can handle the extra voltage of two cells. They might, but it could also burn them out or severely shorten their life.
Third, a crash or a hard knock can rupture the battery, potentially causing a fire or explosion. The recommended wait in the event of a crash is 1/4 to 1 hour, depending on who you talk to. On a related note, shorting the battery can also cause it to catch fire.
Finally, there are a number of other side issues to be concerned about, such as disposal of the battery, not exceeding the minimum voltage, etc.
Considering the expense and potential hazards involved, I have serious doubts that converting to LiPos for your receiver is worth the trouble.
#12
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From: Coral Gables,
FL
I no im not gonna use Li-po's, but i ust want to make sure that a standard hump battery will fit in my PCr wityhout any mods?
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From: St. Erhard, SWITZERLAND
Yes, it will!
Reindeer, you are absolutely right! I did think long and hard, but I decided to go with LiPo.
You do get more Voltage, more than 8V if it's freshly charged, that's why I use a regulator (see it on the VXR page). The advantage is that you have constant Voltage throughout the race, and the regulator tells you by LED when your pack gets near depletion.
The LiPo-Packs are much smaller than comparable NiMH, so you can cushion them really good with foam inside the radio box against crashes. VXR say that their packs do not explode or catch fire but they simply swell up and are rendered useless. I hope I'll never find out if they're right or wrong.
As far as disposing the packs: If you treat a LiPo-Pack the right way and only use it on weekends, it could live longer than you.
Reindeer, you are absolutely right! I did think long and hard, but I decided to go with LiPo.
You do get more Voltage, more than 8V if it's freshly charged, that's why I use a regulator (see it on the VXR page). The advantage is that you have constant Voltage throughout the race, and the regulator tells you by LED when your pack gets near depletion.
The LiPo-Packs are much smaller than comparable NiMH, so you can cushion them really good with foam inside the radio box against crashes. VXR say that their packs do not explode or catch fire but they simply swell up and are rendered useless. I hope I'll never find out if they're right or wrong.
As far as disposing the packs: If you treat a LiPo-Pack the right way and only use it on weekends, it could live longer than you.
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From: na, BELGIUM
ORIGINAL: Rs43EVOman
I no im not gonna use Li-po's, but i ust want to make sure that a standard hump battery will fit in my PCr wityhout any mods?
I no im not gonna use Li-po's, but i ust want to make sure that a standard hump battery will fit in my PCr wityhout any mods?
stop being a whining baby, everyone has said a hump or stick will fit and you just keep on asking. quit it and get one.
#15
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From: Barboursville,
VA
Either one of these will work fine.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByC...ProdID=HPI2013
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByC...ProdID=HPI2012
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByC...ProdID=HPI2013
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByC...ProdID=HPI2012
#16
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From: Queen Creek,
AZ
Don't forget sleaze bay:
Hump:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Ofna-1400-MAH-NI...QQcmdZViewItem
Flat:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Ofna-1400-MAH-NI...QQcmdZViewItem
Hump:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Ofna-1400-MAH-NI...QQcmdZViewItem
Flat:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Ofna-1400-MAH-NI...QQcmdZViewItem
#18
why pay 30.00 at Horizon or 21.99 for an ebay item of lesser quality? go direct to OFNA US.
http://nitrohouse.com/acces,_batteries_%26_chargers.htm
19.95 for 1400mah. and get the flat pack, quit hand wringing it. that's what the optional battery holder is for.
http://nitrohouse.com/acces,_batteries_%26_chargers.htm
19.95 for 1400mah. and get the flat pack, quit hand wringing it. that's what the optional battery holder is for.
#19
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From: Coral Gables,
FL
Yah, on towerhobies there gonna have 1600 MAh nimhs by Team Orion soon, and when they have those in im gonna get that. But hoq much longe will that last compared to using 4 AA's?
Also, this is a goow battery right? becuase i dont think the 1600Mah's are gonna be out for a while so i might get this
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJRB2&P=0]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJRB2&P=0[/link]
Also is this [link=https://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHCF1&P=M]charger[/link] the only one that will work with it, becuase i dont really want to wait 14 houes to charge the battery
Also, this is a goow battery right? becuase i dont think the 1600Mah's are gonna be out for a while so i might get this
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJRB2&P=0]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJRB2&P=0[/link]
Also is this [link=https://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHCF1&P=M]charger[/link] the only one that will work with it, becuase i dont really want to wait 14 houes to charge the battery
#20
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From: Queen Creek,
AZ
The length of time depends on the mah rating of the AA batteries you were using. It all comes down to the mah rating for a given type of cell, and how well it is matched to the cells around it.
Regardless, the 5 cell ni-mh pack will outperform the AAs though, not so much because of the run time (though it will be better) but because it give a higher voltage, which allows your servos to react with more strength and speed.
The OFNA pack I linked to is 10 bucks cheaper than the one you pointed out (from Nitrohouse as mentioned above). Since both have the same mah rating, you might as well save yourself the money.
As for chargers, get a PEAK charger. It will give you longer run times, as well as making your batteries last longer before replacement. Your link points to a ni-mh battery, so you will need a charger that supports that type of cell. Unless you have a power supply, or want to connect it to a full size car battery all of the time, I would suggest a unit that is AC/DC. If you have the money, I would say go for a unit like a MRC Super Brain 977 or 989, because these units can charge two different batteries at once, and charge all types of batteries currently used in R/C. These will give you the ability to charge the battery at a faster rate too. But they won't be ten bucks like the one in your post, they run at just under $100.00. You can get cheaper peak chargers, but those are the most useful I have found for nitro R/C.
Regardless, the 5 cell ni-mh pack will outperform the AAs though, not so much because of the run time (though it will be better) but because it give a higher voltage, which allows your servos to react with more strength and speed.
The OFNA pack I linked to is 10 bucks cheaper than the one you pointed out (from Nitrohouse as mentioned above). Since both have the same mah rating, you might as well save yourself the money.
As for chargers, get a PEAK charger. It will give you longer run times, as well as making your batteries last longer before replacement. Your link points to a ni-mh battery, so you will need a charger that supports that type of cell. Unless you have a power supply, or want to connect it to a full size car battery all of the time, I would suggest a unit that is AC/DC. If you have the money, I would say go for a unit like a MRC Super Brain 977 or 989, because these units can charge two different batteries at once, and charge all types of batteries currently used in R/C. These will give you the ability to charge the battery at a faster rate too. But they won't be ten bucks like the one in your post, they run at just under $100.00. You can get cheaper peak chargers, but those are the most useful I have found for nitro R/C.
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From: Greer,
SC
Look around on ebay and stuff, and find [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHFP0&P=7]this[/link] charger, and enjoy the faster better charger.
*edit*
[link=http://search.ebay.com/Traxxas-Power-Charger-Revo_W0QQfromZR8QQfsooZ1QQfsopZ1QQfstypeZ1QQssPage NameZRC0022]Here[/link] are a bunch of them.
*edit*
[link=http://search.ebay.com/Traxxas-Power-Charger-Revo_W0QQfromZR8QQfsooZ1QQfsopZ1QQfstypeZ1QQssPage NameZRC0022]Here[/link] are a bunch of them.
#23
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From: Queen Creek,
AZ
Can you afford half of $100.00? Here is a peak charger like the one I started out with before I upgraded to the Super Brain. It can do nimh, but only one battery at a time, can't do 12 volt starter box batteries, and can't discharge.
#24
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From: Coral Gables,
FL
Whats the best charger i can get New (cant use Ebay) for $90? or should i just save up for the super brain, and will the 977 work with a stnadard wall outlet? amd dpes it cme with all the connectors to charge reciever packs, 12V starter box batteries, standard nimh and nicd packs,?


