hi, i have a werks clutch install on one of my buggy and i never got it work right ! do i need any shim ? any where ? i try the carbon with gold springs and it take about 1/2 throttle to got the car start moving [:'(] and i try rulon with the green spring and the darn thing hasnt move at all [:@] , i'm not sure how far to screw down the spring ! any advice would be appreciated...

Need to follow the instructions for the most part and it goes pretty well. This is off of the werks racing site.
It sounds to me like you have the Adjusting nut screwed in to tight. Also make sure you LOCKTITE it as if you do not the spining of the flywheel will tighten it up which will make it not engauge as soon as you would like it to or tighten up so much it wont enguage at all.


[link=http://werksracing.com/faq.do?id=4]http://werksracing.com/faq.do?id=4[/link]
Assembly:
Begin by installing the flywheel (a) on the crankshaft with the factory supplied collet. Next, using a 10mm deep socket, install the long clutch nut (b) . Holding the flywheel with channel-locks is helpful in getting this clutch nut very tight.

Install the shoes (c), followed by the pressure plate (d). The spring (e) is next, begin with the 1.3mm Gold spring. Apply some blue thread-locking compound to the first threads, and install the adjusting nut (f). Wipe away any excess compound.

The initial adjustment should have the adjusting nut flush with the clutch nut, (see fi gure 2).

Adjusting Shoes and Springs:
The Carbon shoe has the moderate wear and is a common first choice, it has a linear throttle feel to it, with a moderate amount of grip.

Rulon on the other hand has higher wear, this is especially dependant on the amount of slip used. It does however have the most grip. Be aware, because of this, the clutch can feel like its getting heavy (engaging early), This is because of the increase in grip because of heat. Base your adjustment on a hot clutch, 1 minute. This is an excellent choice on a high traction tracks assuming you put the time in.

Teflon has the least grip with excellent wear, it is best suited on low traction conditions or for engines lacking bottom end. It allows the engine to spool up before the clutch locks.

As mentioned begin with the soft 1.3mm gold spring. Depending on the inner-diameter of your clutchbell, the shoes should begin to engage just above idle. As you tighten the adjusting nut, 1/3rd to 1/2 turn at time, the engagement point will occur later, resulting in improved acceleration. This is because engagement is getting closer to the beginning of the powerband.

If you don’t have the experience with the feel of your vehicle’s acceleration, another method is by observing the exhaust smoke. The very moment you hit the throttle, smoke should be coming out. If there is hesitation, or you see no smoke for 5-10 feet, tighten the adjusting nut, the clutch is heavy (engaging too soon). If you have to tighten the adjusting nut 3mm down from flush, use the next hardest spring (dark green).

You have too much tension on the nut.
Adjust the nut so that you have 1mm to 1.5mm of the thread exposed.
If it engages too early tighten nut a quater turn ,if engaging too late loosen nut a quater turn until you are happy.
Also make sure no oil residue is in the clutch bell ,this is common as the oil leaks from the clutch bearings.
All my clutch bells I clean with a pot scourer on inner contact area.
I use 2 rulon and 2 carbon shoes with green spring and have no hasles at all.
I replaced carbon shoes a month back after using clutch from October last year.

thanks, " D " yub u r right... my nut spring are way down. maybe my locktite slip or didnt dry enough.

thanks, " RZ " for the tip, the picture in the manual sheet didnt tell me any things.