A.B.U

Alright, so i'll have to get that charger then. What Charger can charge a 12v Gel Cell battery? Yes, that's the starter box i was referring to.

I guess i MAY have to file the wheel down.. I got my 8ight last November.. but i never got around to buying things for it.. (got into guitars and all that..)

Does A Main carry that Nova pipe? Could you link me to it..? and a header for it, of course

gtsum

That charger will charge a 12v just fine (but, you need a power supply or another batter for it..it is DC only!) If you are looking for an AC/DC charger, I have a MRC Superbrain 977 and it is good, but I do not like it near as much as the Triton 2. My neighbor has the MRC Superbrain 989, and it is pretty good and it is AC/DC operation...This is the pipe I would get for the Ninja:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/4568

1/2 the cost of the nova pipe, it is hard anodized, and is tougher then the nova pipe..comes with a header on it

A.B.U

Wow, that pipe is super in expensive.. o.o. that'd be odd running a $310 engine, with a $50 pipe, lol But it IS a good pipe, right?

Hmm.. another engine question.. how's the OS V spec compare to the Ninja? It's like 20 bux cheaper.. is it any good?

Will [link=http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/13173]this charger[/link]be fine for just charging the battery pack..? It saves a whole lot of money, too.. just a temporary thing, cause i'm not made outta a whole lotta money :P

Thanks for all the help by the way, gtsum

gtsum

Well, I ran that pipe on my Ninja and it was great...almost everyone I have talked to that runs this pipe says the same thing...it works great on almost all engines. The Nova pipe and header will run you about double the cost, so that is your call..they are pretty thin and get dented up pretty good though. The vspec is a good mill as well, but to get the most out of it, I would run it with the OS T2050 pipe...that pipe and header is about $115, so you need to consider that. The vspec hits harder then the Ninja...the Ninja is smoother imo...powerwise, they are about the same. I think the Ninja will last longer as well.

That charger will not work for you..it is designed for stick packs and does not charge the smaller cells in the receiver pack and or your radio...it would charge stick packs though

A.B.U

Man o man o man.. The Ninja Set up (with the ninja pipe/manifold) is 435.. the VSpec with the 2050 pipe is 410..
$25 saved switching motors.. but doesn't the V Spec need new bearings somewhere in it?

Whatcha mean by it hits harder? You mean it's way more responsive to more throttle?

Do you know of an affordable (not soo expensive) charger that could charge that pack?

smuller81

i've rebuilt the diff's in my 8ight rtr and i'm having trouble with just the front diff binding up. the rear diff is silky smooth. i bought a whole new front diff assembly case and all, and i'm running into the same problem. i called losi and they said it was just tight and i needed to run it. anyone know what might be going on?

A.B.U

I have a less pricey engine/pipe/manifold set up..

Novarossi P5X, Novarossi Long Manifold, Novarossi 9886 pipe. This combo should work well with that track, right? I figure I don't need crazy speed since i'm not quite used to the 8ight.. at all.. and the P5X, from what I hear is a great engine..

gtsum

yep. that would be a good combo as well for that track. You really cannot go wrong with the Ninja, the Vspec (longevity issues there though..some people have no issues, others have bearing and or rod issues), or the Nova P5xs.

Rockman

As far as the diffs are concerned, by following the directions you will see it is critical to make sure all of the parts are seated and lined up. The manual also describes the need to put the left side tires on the ground and give the engine some throttle so only the right side turns and then do the same by placing the right side on ground and letting only the left wheels turn. This will help seat the parts in your diff. Don't give to much throttle.

A.B.U

Alright, sweet.. i'll go with the p5x then, and upgrade it to a larger engine over time.. although i highly doubt that'll be really needed.

Oh yeah, the DuraTrax Piranha AC/DC digital Peak Charger (NiCd/NiMH) will charge the ballistic batteries pack i listed, wont it?

gtsum

yep, it will work fine

A.B.U

alrighty.. that saves a bunch-a money, then.

Thanks

hkenvy91

has anyone had problems with their cvd's?
let's see, ive sheared 1 pin ,my cvd cup pushed /stripped the set screw out itself out on the pinion gear, and pin set screw likes to wriggle loose!
i have shrink wrapped them and the front is fine all my problems have been with the rear main cvd

Nik.

nope, only problem i ever had was the screw coming loose and losing the pin. Loctite it and get the GMK CVD condoms at amain.

Rockman

On my CVDs I am using www.M2Cracing.com ring and shrink wrap. No problems all summer.
Rockman

Snaut Rocket

Hey if i buy the compettion kit will there be any upgrades i wpuld have to do to it. Or is it bullet proof stocked.

vnmsgt

I just got a 8ight with everything but a motor and mounts. I have ordered the losi motor mounts but they have not come in yet. I was wondering should any .28 motor fit in this buggy with the losi mounts. I have a .28 CEN motor to put in it but when I just set it in the chassis without the mounts it looks like the back of the motor will hit the chassis brace with the rotostart on it and at the same time keeping the end of the crankshaft (no bell installed yet) even with the center diff spur gear. I know the mounts are not in there yet but I am just curious if I would have to buy only certain particular motors to fit this chassis. Thanks for your help.

rcmxsports

Getting pretty sick of trying to install the pin onto the Losi 8 clutch. I like the way you can change the shoes and run 2 carbon and 2 alloy and switch spring rates on them. But getting them together is a pain in the butt.

Any tricks???

And what are you guys running on shoes and springs I'm running 4 alloy with 2 gold and 2 silver springs looking to slow down the clutch engagement so I can get more bottom end punch. I'm trying to put the black springs on but they are so fat that I can not get the stupid pins in. I'm hoping this will work better as a clutch set up. I'm running a MR Ninja 21 with a Hard anodized JP3 which has tons of top end and so so mid but crappy bottom. I'm going tp try a JP1 which is more for bottom end and like I said I'm trying to slow the engagement on the clutch so my motor revs higher before it engages the clutch maybe with this set up I can gain some bottom end too.

Any ideas???


ANY HELP MUCH APRECIATED

hkenvy91

bevel the end of the pins with a dremel, not alot , just enough to kill the adges

rcmxsports

I did that still kinda tought to get in and with the black springs they are impossible because the springs are so thick

bloodrush

what servos do you recomend on a budget?

Nexus

I'm picking up a Losi 8ight RTR very soon...

Just wondering if guys who have run/purchased the RTR version could list out the upgrades they made. If possible pics would be nice of items like chassis braces, etc.

--

luisev

What starter boxes are you fellas running? I'm getting a little tired of the Losi box... [:@]

ofna2005

hey guys ,
Pickinig up the losi tomorrow whos got a ruff track set up i could try ? Losi 8 Buggy . thanks

Mz

how does the RB Concept S7 MSC 7-Port compare to the novarossi p5x?
thanks