i was breaking in m s7......and it says to run it on the track........do you guys think 180 is too high for its 4th tank

If that is Farenheight then no. If anything its slightly low but I would not get to worried about it.

It is little low but if you are doing the breakin in cool temps you should not be alarmed but the ultimate goal is 200 to 210 degrees. After three to four tanks of driving the car around, dont be afraid to goose the throttle near full a couple of times just dont do it for more than a second or so. Try to do very small adjustments to the high end needle only as you lean it slightly, really shoot for that 200 degree range with lots of smoke. You can start racing it at the 8 to 10 tank range but only lean the low end to make sure she stays lit while you are waiting for the starting tone. Be very very very very patient waiting for the engine to make full power. At three quarters of a gallon, it will turn into a screaming snarling monster as it revs to the moon and sends your car cartwheeling off the end of the straight away. At about three gallons or so, change the con rod. This engine revs so high that when you take into account the long breakin and the high revs, you run the risk stretching the con and goose egging the brass bearings in the con. This messes up the timing of the engine and a failure and 30k rpm would not be good. This conrod change reccomended for all Noverossi based engines. If you add a thin shim to the head botton and run an 086 pipe or equivilent, it have even more low end pull and scream even faster. I run mine on 20% odonnel and nitrotane and they are ballistic. 9.5 gallons on one of mine and it is still faster then the one I have with 3 gals on it. This engine rips with almost no pinch on the piston and sleeve but dont change it until the engine starts running erracticly.

RB motors have some of, if not the highest tolerances between the piston and sleeve of any engine. Or, you could say they come from the factory with the tightest pinch... from my limited experience anyway.

Because of this, I like to up the temperature of the heat cycle to 220. I believe that little bit of extra expansion is important so as to not cause extra wear on the sleeve. With a tighter than average pinch, it seems logical that more sleeve expansion would be necessary to prevent the piston from scraping as much on the sleeve. I'm guessing this would also have the added benefit of being a bit easier on the conrod.

180 is certainly not too high.

I'd say that 180 is a little to low. If you are experiencing very cold conditions where you live at this time of the year, I suggest wrapping the head in alfoil to kepp the temps up and heat the engine well with a hairdryer or heatgun before you start it. Its true that you never tune to a temp but when running in a new engine you want to aim for at least 200F
+. If the engine is allowed to run too rich & cold, it just places more stress on the conrod as the piston/sleeve is not running at a high enough temperature to allow it to expand & fit properly.
I'd just perhaps lean out the LSN a touch to get some temp in and yes do not be affraid to start to give it good squirts of the throttle. Still go easy but just start to vary the RPM range.
But in winter particular, its important to maintain a engine temp so get out the alfoil. Works well.

ya i have been giving it full throttle only until the rpms raise then i quickly let off.......i held it a little longer a couple of times......and wow this thing pulls on the top end....well it is a 7 port motor so i guess it should

im going to go to the track this weekend and put some more tanks on her so i can get past the break in phase....just as soon as i get some more 20%

thanks for your help guys

Yeah I've got a WS7 and they haul A! Yeah they are a genuine top end screamer Match them with a good pipe and you can;t go wrong.

just remember , most RB's like to run hotter then other engines.. i know my S3 (wich i use to run stock class) runs 240 all the time.. at 220 or lower she won't run worth anything , neiter is my WS7 , they both have to run 240-260 in order for them to run at their top potential..

just remember during break in the temps are going to be a bit higher due to the added friction in the liner/piston , the temps will drop a bit once it gets broken in..

does an WS7 II or III fit in a hyper 7 TQ?

Yes

thank you