Ok, Im new to all this RC stuff, but I was told it is normal to pay hundreds of dollars for a product/buggie, and it falls apart while your breaking it in at a street parking lot. The screw fell out of the steering servo, and the rear shaft came off and I lost it. I had to pay 20 bucks to have it replace. I new I should have gotten the Ofna Violator. I took the wheels and tires off of my raze and put them on the sho for more traction because the stock tires are horrible.

Is it ok to run 30%? I was told this could blow my engine, even though its already broken in. I have the infinity .21 .

all nitro cars/trucks have loose screws when u buy them..................thats why ur suppose to tighten everything before u use it..............what u have is a problem called user error.............alot of people here run the SHO i know off the top of my head at least 10 that have it and all of them agree its a great car

Not sure what car you have, and it doesn't really matter.

Most RTR cars need to be looked over when brand new, to see everything is tight and correct. Every time you run, you need to check the car over. These cars take lots of abuse, and vibrate parts loose amazingly quick.

You will spend hours of entertaining maintenence on your car. Heck, I pay better attention to my cars than my wife! That must be why my cars work better! LOL

Rotor

All part of the learning curve my brotha. It has happened to the best of them.

Just learn to actually check the thing over. That's why I prefer kits to rtr. You get to make sure every screw and bolt is tight, and locktighted.

All hobby grade RTR's need to be looked over before they are run. Screws need to be checked and any with metal to metal contact need to have loctite applied. I'm assuming from the problems you are having none of this has been done. also as I told you in the other thread offroad spike tires and asphalt don't mix. you need onroad buggy tires.

This kit was ready to run, but wow I never expected for the rear shaft to just fall out.

I have the RD Logics Sho

I bought the locktite, so I will apply that. What happens if I ever need to replace something that has the locktite on it? Also as far as the tires, I know I need street tires but still those Sho stock tires were horrible. I put the Raze tires on the Sho, and it moves way better even on the street.

Thanks guys for the info. The next thing I want to know is how do I post photos of my Sho?

Now that aint true, None of my buggies have loctite on them and none of them have lost screws. The trick is to get a decent set of tools so you can actually tighten the screws up properly. Remember though to never overtighten a screw or you'll have problems later when it's dirty.

I would never run any of my trucks without loctite - especially on the engine mount screws and set screws. It most certainly is true. I've never before met anyone that didn't use loctite (I have met MANY racers - our local series races get around 100-150 racers each event). And in the 3 years I have been reading posts on this forum you are the very first person I have seen post that one does not need loctite . I am glad it works for you, but it shouldn't be reccomended to anyone else.

When you use loctite, make sure you use the blue stuff. Red is too much for most R/C applications. If you have a problem removing a screw with loctite on it, heat it up with a lighter or hobby torch. Loctite breaks down at 300 degrees F.

Yes I use loctite on all my metal-to-metal screws and use either purple or blue. Purple is not as strong as blue and is made for small fasteners. I do not do RTR but if you do RTR need to be checked out like all have said above. If all you are doing is bashing I would stick with 20% nitro but yes you can go to 30% if you have the right glow plug and the head is shimmed properly you all so need to retune.

Yeah I use blue threadlock on all metal to metal screws. Its also true that RTRs build quality is pretty poor. I've had 2 RTRs in the past and each of them had similar problems. Now I buy kits and wouldn't go back. I'd rather have a cheaper kit and budget engine put together properly than a flashy RTR that just falls to bits and has generaly poor quality components.
Its alway hindsight that teaches us lessons and I dont know of that many people that keep buying RTRs. Usually you buy 1 or at the most 2 when your new, then see the light and buy kits.
Has anyone had more that 2 RTRs and still not turned to kits?

I have only had one nitro RTR and all the rest have been kits. Now I will have to admit I buy quite a few RTR Kyosho Mini-Z F1, as that is the only way you can by them. They are 1/28 scale electric great fun when the weather is bad out side. There are some brands I will not by because they only make RTR as far as 1/10 and 1/8 scale. Kits are the only way to go.

i bought 7 cars 5 rtr's and the other two were kit's.