Rockman

I put two red associated rings between the chassis and the battery box wit a longer screw. I just snugged enough to allow some movement of the battery side of the tray. Works great. Also use Associated green slime when building your shocks. Should not have a problem after that with leaking shocks.
Rockman

Luggy

What is "green slime" and where can I get it?

Rockman

Go to your local hobby store or you can order on line. Look under www.amainhobbies.com

markhat250

I'm not letting this thread die.

I've now blown my 3rd servo in 5 trips to the tracks. Setup is NOT the issue. I have that crap dialed. Hmmm. Well, I am just going to get some cheapo servos off ebay for $15 or so. What do ya do. Bummer.

claudacio

My Feedback: (9)

Its an o-ring lube/sealer type grease. http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/3068

I also picked up some of this stuff and it seems just as good but the green slime is always the safe bet.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/10931


Markhat, I know you said you have it dialed but are you following the losi addendum or one of the setups around here or else where? Normal setup practice doesnt cut it with the 8ight, and even more so with the RTR. Just ask luggy. You may want to start stiffening up the chassis little by little if you havent already.

markhat250

As far as the addendum goes, yes, that's what I mean in having it dialed. O'rings, perfect alignment, not touching, no stress, etc. I however have not upgraded my tray to a stiff carbon fiber jobbie. It's still stock that came in the kit. I also have not put in anything too expensive out of fear. From the threads, expensive doesn't mean it will last either I am gathering. Thanks for your concern and help. I'm at my wits end.

Luggy

There have been several who said proper setup was the answer. Then there was those like me and you who have done the setup perfectly, not leaving anything out, and still lost a servo. I'm convinced mine was due to chassis flex causing the servo to bind and lock thus burning it out. I bought and used a Ultimate tray stiffener, installed the rubber on the servo screws and left a little room for flex and spent several hours making sure there was no binding in the setup. Right after that I lost a servo. Now I have installed a kit chassis (much more strength) and the aluminum chassis supports. I have not installed the O' rings on the tray screw but I might do that today, can't hurt (or can it). I also started using a AT 94357. So far I have run longer than any of the other things I've done put together, almost 1.5 gallons so far with no problems. Right now my servo when sitting still has zero binding at all stop points. 1/2 throttle, 1/4 throttle and every other stop point there is no binding as it should be. The servo will always make noise when using the brakes since constant pressure is being applied. So proper brake setup is important making sure your servo moves as little as possible to apply full brakes.

The only thing I can figure out and I'm no expert is the throttle servo sits to close to the battery tray, the RTR chassis is way to weak and possibly the servo bottom sits to close to the chassis. Also, the carb. slide on the 427 is way to rough when it's new. That can also cause binding and one of the reasons for near perfect setup of the linkage. But in all honesty I don't think any one thing will fix the issue. I don't think Losi/horizon really knows what the problem is. They just gave a good example of proper setup and a possible solution to chassis flex with the O' ring fix. They did a good job and I would definitely do both exactly as shown. I won't know if mine is fixed for a while still. I don't think I'll ever be sure.

As a note, a friend lost his 94357 in his Kyosho last Sunday. It just burned out after 2 years of hard racing. He runs expert class. The racing didn't kill it, he did and he admitted it. He's also an RC Tech guy at the LHS. He had taken the car apart for cleaning and rebuilding and didn't set up the throttle perfect afterwards. Lack of setup killed it. Setup has to be done with every car and it has to be done right or you'll have problems. Setup is an issue with every car but it's not necessarily the fix for the 8ight.

Motorman007

I'm want to try the buggy, but this servo, diff and dog bone issues is killing me.

Right now I just don't know Kysoho WC or the Losi. man


I'm not new to the rc world, so I know how to setup my servo's and radio.

I got out a year a go and sold this item that I used for my kopropo sevros.

A lot of on-road guys use this item

it is call
http://www.kopropo.com/ICS.htm

ICS.

[link=http://www.shopatron.com/product/product_id=KPP61010/166.0.605.56.0.0.0]ICS Multi-setting Adapter Servo Card Set[/link]

You can set up your servo's to power down if you get a load on it. MEANING IF YOU SERVO is holding to long it power down until the loads gone. which in turn no burned up servo's.

very easy to use. set it for 3 sec 1 sec 5 sec on load it powers down as soon as the load is off back to 100% again.



plug your servo in the card, set it, run.

something to think about.

RBMike

What DIff & Dog bone issues? I have a kit Losi with between 7 & 8 gallons thru it (all on the track running hard with the rest of the gang). So far I've bent a couple of rear outer hinge pins & had one axle bearing fail(hitting the fence at full speed). NO other failures INCLUDING servos. The RTR may have a throtle servo issue but the kit does not. I have no mods, no aftermarket anything. I'm using hi-tech 925 on the throtle (with the provided rubber mounting gromets, no metal inserts) and it is an old one (at least 2 to 3 years old). And for you guys who think it's heat killing the servos just forget about that, your waisting brain power. Several guys at my track have the 8 & I have only seen 1 guy kill a throtle servo & his linkage was a mess. I re-did his linkage when he put the new servo in and he has had no problems since then (the last week in December). He runs every weekend.

Motorman007

What DIff & Dog bone issues?

Well the guys that I know at my LHS and on S Grid have blown diffs meaning the pinion. I have seen the diff and pinion.

Dog bone are not lasting as long as other buggys. They get a fat end much faster. Replacing are cheap. These are the first kits not RTR.. I was told that it maybe fixed.

I re-did his linkage when he put the new servo in and he has had no problems since then (the last week in December). He runs every weekend.

I think you are right about this setting up thing.

They may have fixed the plastic b.c. the first kits that I see the plastic was not as good..

I know for one my shop call drake. other that know Travis have e-mail him.

There is a problem with the plastic. They are working on the servo issues. it will be a running change is what they told them…


In my heart I think the servo issue is user error..

kawaz

Hello,

Sorry to hear about this servo problem.

I have one gallon through my 8ight and no servo problem for the moment.
I'm using a futaba S9351 and king headz radio plate.

Nicolas

RBMike

I'm with you Motorman.

I did neglect to mention I cut the throtle return spring. I did this automatically when I built the kit AS I HAVE DONE WITH EVERY BUGGY I EVER BUILT (LOSI, MUGEN, KYOSHO).

As for the other issues, I have not had any of them (except for slightly leaky shocks after they took some hits). I hardly do any maintanace on my car other than a clutch inspection/maintainance after every day of racing or practice.

MugenSickly

i have about 3 gallons through my 8ight, and havent lost a servo yet, I did however lose quite a few servos last year on my mugen.

heres mu .02c take it or leave it

First, 8th scales are tough on servos. Everyone knows it.

Second, the brakes on the 8 have some serious gripping power. If you have your brakes set up to 'lock up' your putting a lot of stress on the servo. And when it stops, it bounces, stressing, releasing, stressing, releasing. My mugen had composite break shoes in it too. So to fix it I did 3 things. 1. made sure the gromits were in there. Vibration is a killer. 2. I made sure my EPA's were not to the end. Get it to where the servo is at full range, and back your end point down, if you back it down a click, and it doesnt move, your too far. it should move the lever back on you every time you click your epa button.

3. I used a voltage regulator. What I have noticed, being a computer/electronics geek, is that when the servo is under load, it uses more and less voltage. WHen it is bouncing, it goes back and fourth really fast. Voltage hopping like that can damage electronics. Once I put in my voltage regulator, I could run the car with brakes that locked tight, and stopped losing servos. No, I cant guarentee that this is it, but it, along with ensuring my setup is right, has meant I havent lost any servos at all with my 8.

4. Make sure your carb slides straight. WHen the carb is out of line, just a fraction of an inch from where the servo is pulling, it multiplies the amount of force its pulling. It also makes the carb level 'stick' wears the lever and causes more 'stick.

Now, heat could effect the servo also, I have read that in here, and im running a ninja engine, and it runs about 220-240 all the time, and its not the size of a giant big block case, so its possible that because im running a cool running engine, my servos arent heating up.

In all, I really cant see how 'the car' all things being equal could be 'at fault'

Logically, if all cars, that are 'perfectly' set up with 'good' gear, are not having the same problem, consistently, its gotta be something with the way the cars made, that causes ppl to not set it up correctly.

I thought when i first got this car, the brake linkage seemed short to me, which meant you would need more torque to pull it, (you know the teeter totter, leverage effect).

anyway, I like my 8. I have had some problems with it, but no more than any other car I slam across 5 foot jumps at 40 miles an hour for days at a time with.

relay8039

The losi spring is far too stiff. Much more than it needs to be. Once the linkage is straight and level so the linkage can not touch the servo, and the breaks are set correctly. Once the servo linkage EPA is set. Change the Spring to one from another car. Every other car uses a softer spring rate for the servo saver. A servo is always on, the position of the throttle does not matter. If there is unneeded constant preasure on the it the moter will over heat and die. So look for the sources of stress beyond the obvious. As soon as the spring is changed no one at my track has had Losi Servo problems.

Luggy

I read where Adam Drake told someone to use 2 1/10th scale shock O'Rings on the battery box screw and not to tighten it completely. What I didn't understand is where to put the O'Rings. Do they go between the battery box and the chassis? If not how are they to be installed.

I guess that is Losi's fix???

Rockman

That is correct. Put them between the battery box and the chassis. Use a longer screw and tighten to just flush to inside of box.
Rockman

Luggy

OK, thanks.

I haven't lost a servo in a while and I don't want to so I'll do that fix for assurance.

gtsum

how are the servo's holding up for you? I am with RB Mike on this one...it is 100% user setup on the linkages...I have about 2 gallons on mine (with stock chassis braces) and have not had a single issue. It comes down to EPA, parallel servo travel, parallel throttle rod, leave 2-3 mm extra movement when at full throttle to allow for chassis flex, and minimal brake epa....spend the time on these and you should be good. I also helped a buddy set his up and he has no issues either...

for your shocks leaking, get yourself some tko o rings and put one in there in place of the inside stock o ring...zero leaks in 2 gallons of track time.

Diff issues???? Diffs seem fine - did they have a bad batch of R/P gears go out or something? The front CVD will wear out (because of the angle) - it looks like I will be replacing mine within the next 2 gallons or so

Hope you get it worked out, as the 8ight is a great buggy to drive and so fast around a track...

MannyEdge

My Feedback: (9)

Hey guys,


Are these servos good enough? HS-625MG (Throttle) and HS-5945MG (Steering)?

[link=http://www.servocity.com/html/hs-625mg_ultra_speed.html]HS-625MG (Throttle)[/link]

[link=http://www.servocity.com/html/hs-5945mg_digital_torque.html]HS-5945MG (Steering)[/link]

Thanks


Manny

Wreckless Racing

my buddy was having problems with the 8ight and he found out that the RTR comes with some servo spacers in the box. If you space the servo up and get it away from the chassis with the spacers they give you than the heat cant hurt the servos. Which is the main problem with the 8ight.

Put the spacers in with the servo and you wont have a servo problem.

its very odd that the factory doesnt do this for you. But it happens i guess...they gotta leave somthing for us to figure out!!

good luck!

Cole

gtsum

true...I forgot about that...you need to use the servo spacers (with most servos) and use the rubber grommets for your servos...this will help isolate it from vibrations and get it off the deck of the chassis

Luggy

Those servos will be just fine provided you do everything listed as a fix for the servo issue. Otherwise it will eat them up just like it will eat them all up.

Now I see "servo spacers". (OK it's getting funny.) So, use servo spacers (if yours came with them) or one of the add on after market servo tray stiffeners to raise the servo away from the chassis, install the rubber grommets that come with the servos, 2 1/10th scale o'rings and a longer screw on the battery mount part of the servo/electronics tray and set up the control rods precisely as explained in the added instructions from Losi (found on the Losi 8ight web page at www.teamlosi.com ) or as described in this forum. (did I miss anything?)

Wreckless Racing

yea...the O-Rings didnt work...thats what you missed...the spacers that came with the kit did work...

no need to bash on peoples ideas..Im just trying to help people out.

Cole

Luggy

No one's bashing any ideas, just listing the fixes to date. Sorry if you took it that way, it wasn't intentional.

Where did you see that the o'rings did not work?

I find it humorous the many fixes that have come about since the first RTR's were put on the market and the servo issue became so extreme.

lanerbrainer205

Ok so I just ordered the kit and I also puchased a hitec 645mg for throttle and a hitec 5945mg servo for steering. I read above that these will be good, but there is a lot of info in here and i was wondering what the FINAL fix was step by step. I have the money for the kits chassis, shock caps, shock towers, and aluminum chassis braces. So it will pretty much be a kit by the time im done anyway! Please reply! thanks ahead of time!