'Bess' method break in question...
03-16-2007, 08:47 AM
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'Bess' method break in question...
OK, most of us these days are familiar with the bess method of breaking in a new engine. Those who are not, here it is...
For those who are, I have the following questions, as I am about to try it for the first time with a brand new RB S5 motor.
It says to continue at 2-3 minute intervals 'til you've run about 15 mins total, then go up to 3-4 minutes at a time, varying the RPM, until you've run a total of 25 minutes.
1) The 25 mins total quoted, does that include the initial 15 mins of 2-3 min runs?
2) Varying the RPM...ok, but not full throttle, right?
Thanks all...
From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this manner for about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your engine will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your engine's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.
You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory engine settings are very rich on every engine I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.
You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory engine settings are very rich on every engine I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.
It says to continue at 2-3 minute intervals 'til you've run about 15 mins total, then go up to 3-4 minutes at a time, varying the RPM, until you've run a total of 25 minutes.
1) The 25 mins total quoted, does that include the initial 15 mins of 2-3 min runs?
2) Varying the RPM...ok, but not full throttle, right?
Thanks all...
03-16-2007, 09:13 AM
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RE: 'Bess' method break in question...
I'm still scared to hit full throttle within the first tank of running, I have heard of it being ok, but I cant bring myself to do it. After the first tank theres no problems going up to full throttle and back down as long as you arent holding it there for any period of time.
I think he means all those cycles for a total of 25 minutes all together. I personally run 3 10 minute cycles instead of all those 2-3 minute cycles, the 2-3 minute way is a pain. I never heard of it before getting an EB mods engine and I've been doing it like that ever since. Trying to get it up to temps and stay within those time constraints is a bit difficult with that small amount of time.
I think Bess's method has been a little refined since he wrote that, plop it on the ground and start running it is a little vague and theres a few things you should probably do aside/instead of what he says there. I wrap the cooling head of my engines with a wrag and try to stay at factory settings only leaning enough to attain the proper temps and stay running so raw fuel is puking out of the pipe, yet head temps are above 200. The raw fuel being expelled removes the metal particles ontop of keeping the engine lubed well. Aluminum foil doesnt hold the heat as well, but will work but I like the rag better as it holds the heat in a little better when you shut it down instead if just disipateing with foil. He also doesnt make mention of bringing the engine to BDC when you shut it down.
I'm sure you'll get a lot of responses with this one but I would say run it the way makes you comfortable, as long as you are getting head temps above 200 while the engine is semi rich, without beating on it, and putting the piston at BDC when you shut it down you'll be fine. Everyone comes up with their own variations of this method and does things a little different, but the concept is the same (heat cycling), it does work well though.
I think he means all those cycles for a total of 25 minutes all together. I personally run 3 10 minute cycles instead of all those 2-3 minute cycles, the 2-3 minute way is a pain. I never heard of it before getting an EB mods engine and I've been doing it like that ever since. Trying to get it up to temps and stay within those time constraints is a bit difficult with that small amount of time.
I think Bess's method has been a little refined since he wrote that, plop it on the ground and start running it is a little vague and theres a few things you should probably do aside/instead of what he says there. I wrap the cooling head of my engines with a wrag and try to stay at factory settings only leaning enough to attain the proper temps and stay running so raw fuel is puking out of the pipe, yet head temps are above 200. The raw fuel being expelled removes the metal particles ontop of keeping the engine lubed well. Aluminum foil doesnt hold the heat as well, but will work but I like the rag better as it holds the heat in a little better when you shut it down instead if just disipateing with foil. He also doesnt make mention of bringing the engine to BDC when you shut it down.
I'm sure you'll get a lot of responses with this one but I would say run it the way makes you comfortable, as long as you are getting head temps above 200 while the engine is semi rich, without beating on it, and putting the piston at BDC when you shut it down you'll be fine. Everyone comes up with their own variations of this method and does things a little different, but the concept is the same (heat cycling), it does work well though.
03-16-2007, 09:20 AM
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RE: 'Bess' method break in question...
Thanks for your thoughts, maybe I'll go for 5 or 6 x 5-6 minute runs, to be on the safe side, aiming for around 200-230 each time...it's pretty warm on the track here in greece, so with a 'little' leaning (but still spitting, as you said), it should get up to temp fairly easily...
03-16-2007, 09:35 AM
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RE: 'Bess' method break in question...
I wouldnt want to put the car on any kind of track or surface like grass thats going to strain the engine in any way. I usually have a junk set of tires on hand so I throw a set of those on and go to a nice flat, open parking lot so the car coasts and really isnt under any kind of stress from the terrain.
03-16-2007, 09:40 AM
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RE: 'Bess' method break in question...
Oh, yeh, I agree, I would run it with the old Hyper tyres on it, and when I said 'on the track', I just meant to make the point that the temps are good here at the moment, in the last couple of days spring has 'sprung'. Don't worry I'll be doing it at the track parking lot.
So, just to clarify...35-40 mins of break in, and I'm ready for a burn around the track (taking it easy of course)?
Took me 5 hours to break in the Hyper 21...lol!
So, just to clarify...35-40 mins of break in, and I'm ready for a burn around the track (taking it easy of course)?
Took me 5 hours to break in the Hyper 21...lol!
03-16-2007, 10:05 AM
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RE: 'Bess' method break in question...
I do it on amounts of tanks.
I do 2-3 mins for 3 tanks then 3-4 mins for the nect 4-5 tanks. Then I just tune it leaving ever-so slightly rich for a 1/4 gallon or so.
I do 2-3 mins for 3 tanks then 3-4 mins for the nect 4-5 tanks. Then I just tune it leaving ever-so slightly rich for a 1/4 gallon or so.
03-16-2007, 10:48 AM
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RE: 'Bess' method break in question...
30-45 minutes is more than enough. You wont see the full performance potential probably sometime into your second gallon of fuel or so, although it isnt going to run bad at all. It will keep getting better and better the more fuel you get through it. Theres nothing wrong with going by tanks either, honestly I dont keep perfect track of the time. I do keep some kind of time keeper on hand (usually a cell phone) but it always ends up being a round about time as I always forget to look at it before I start.
03-16-2007, 04:05 PM
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RE: 'Bess' method break in question...
I use that method. 20-25 minutes can take more like 3 hours of actual time(w/ cooling). Remember to let the engine cool completely between cycles. I am about to break in my M8 using that method. It is the only one I have used. I have about 9 1/2 gallons on my last motor. IF it was not for the front bearing leaking, I would still run it.
03-16-2007, 04:39 PM
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RE: 'Bess' method break in question...
ORIGINAL: livthemoment
I use that method. 20-25 minutes can take more like 3 hours of actual time(w/ cooling). Remember to let the engine cool completely between cycles. I am about to break in my M8 using that method. It is the only one I have used. I have about 9 1/2 gallons on my last motor. IF it was not for the front bearing leaking, I would still run it.
I use that method. 20-25 minutes can take more like 3 hours of actual time(w/ cooling). Remember to let the engine cool completely between cycles. I am about to break in my M8 using that method. It is the only one I have used. I have about 9 1/2 gallons on my last motor. IF it was not for the front bearing leaking, I would still run it.
Why not replace the bearing? It takes an oven and about 30-45 minutes including taking it apart and reassembling the engine.
I like the 10 minute per cycle method, you are absolutely right about the 3 hours of actual time to get it all done and thats what hooked me to the 10 minute cycles. By doing it in 10 minute heat cycles your done in a little over an hour at the most. Thats what EB mods recommends for their engines and its good enough for me.
03-19-2007, 02:58 AM
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RE: 'Bess' method break in question...
[quote]ORIGINAL: claudacio
ORIGINAL: livthemoment
....Thats what EB mods recommends for their engines and its good enough for me....
....Thats what EB mods recommends for their engines and its good enough for me....
04-04-2007, 01:33 AM
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RE: 'Bess' method break in question...
I use the EB Mods method and the Bess method and they're pretty much the same, in fact I think Ed Bridges and Stephen Bess are friends so they probably agree that they're both right LOL.
04-04-2007, 01:52 AM
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RE: 'Bess' method break in question...
Remember to let the engine cool completely between cycles.
04-04-2007, 05:36 AM
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RE: 'Bess' method break in question...
I would also make sure to put something on the cooling head to keep the heat in.
With the break in rich settings it will never get up to the right temps.
With the break in rich settings it will never get up to the right temps.
04-04-2007, 08:55 AM
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RE: 'Bess' method break in question...
Even thaw on RBmods web site it has the heat cycle method when I go my STS D21B RBmods I called Rick Brake and he told me a totally different way to break it in. But what ever works for you.
04-04-2007, 09:13 AM
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RE: 'Bess' method break in question...
I'm with Claud on this one. I run more than 2-3 minutes as well. Its too hard to get up to temps without hammering the throttle... Not sure if I go quite 10 minutes, just however long it takes to break 200. My engines all last quite a bit longer than they used to before I started heat cycling them.
04-28-2007, 01:28 AM
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RE: 'Bess' method break in question...
ORIGINAL: RCtruckRacer
I'm with Claud on this one. I run more than 2-3 minutes as well. Its too hard to get up to temps without hammering the throttle... Not sure if I go quite 10 minutes, just however long it takes to break 200. My engines all last quite a bit longer than they used to before I started heat cycling them.
I'm with Claud on this one. I run more than 2-3 minutes as well. Its too hard to get up to temps without hammering the throttle... Not sure if I go quite 10 minutes, just however long it takes to break 200. My engines all last quite a bit longer than they used to before I started heat cycling them.
04-28-2007, 02:15 AM
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RE: 'Bess' method break in question...
Thanks, but this is an OLD thread, the engine has now had over a gallon through it. Nevermind eh. 
