im getting a 8ight so i was wonder how should i break it in? i dont like the high temp way whats some other ways?

This way seems to work well.
http://www.johnnycoolguy.com/JCGR/ma..._break-in.html

www.focusprinting.com

thats the one i said i dont like. no temp gun.

There are a million different ways to break in but they boil down to 2 ways, heat cycle or idling a few tanks and running rich and gentle.
As you dont like heat cycling just idle a few tanks, then drive it rich at half to three quarter throttle for a further 4-5 tanks then start tuning a little.
How did you tune your savage? its no different just because its in a buggy.
I always heat cycle but I'm sure there will be instructions with the engine/buggy

Well you need a temp gun IMO, this is the lowest stress break in that I have found, I just did it on my V-spec,I now have a gallon on that motor,and still need a heat gun to get it loose enough to get my bump box to turn the motor.

You do not need a temp gun to break in an engine. If you don't want to do the temp cycling method, then there's really only one other method available to you, the 'old school' way...

Run the first tank on the starter box at factory settings. Let it cool (it won't have got very hot anyway) Start the second tank on the starter box, then lean it 1/8th of a turn, halfway through the second tank, lean it another 1/8th of a turn, and put it on the ground. Finish the second tank doing slow up and down runs. Let it cool again. Run three or four more tanks like that, leaning only if the engine is bogging so badly it stalls. If you do choose to lean it more, only 1/8th of a turn at a time. If after an adjustment there is no longer fuel spitting from the pipe, then richen it back up again until there is. You want a fair bit of spitting right up to the 6th or so tank. After the 5th/6th tank, you can start leaning it out more...you still don't need a temp gun, the spit test is adequate, just put a drop of spit on the engine head. If it jumps off, your too hot, if it just evaporates slowly, you can lean it a bit more, it should sizzle nicely and evaporate fast. It may not sound very scientific, but it works very well. After each run MAKE SURE you return the piston to bottom dead center as it cools, or you may stretch the liner.

Finally, don't tune to temperature, you may have a cool running engine, which means if you lean it out to get high temps (250+), you may not be supplying the engine with enough fuel to lubricate itself, this will result in permanent damage pretty quickly. If in doubt at ANY stage, get help from a local experienced nitro person. It is not worth destroying your egnine just because you are impatient.

Also, instead of using a temp gun, you can put a drop of water down the cooling head on the glow plug to check the temps (just like foxy's spit test). If the water gently boils aways after 3 to 4 seconds, then you are at the perfect heat cycling temp (212 F). If the water just sits there the engine is too cold and if the water starts violently jumping around and sizzling then the engine is too hot. I never use a temp gun. A cup of water and a small eyedropper is all I use when breaking in a motor.

www.focusprinting.com

Interestingly enough, the instructions included in my new O.S. 21 VG, say SPECIFICALLY, don't idle tanks through it for break in, or ever for that matter. The motor never gets up to operating temps, the componants don't expand enough, and the running actually causes excessive wear. Best way to break a motor in, is get it started, and drive it around very rich, getting it to at least 220. I've broken in plenty of motors, airplanes, cars, ect... I do the same thing every time. I put the motor under the operatiing conditions they will be used in.

This is the heat cycling method which he doesn't want to do. Personally, I agree with you, but if he doesn't want to do it, the 'old' way is the only other way...

when i bought the savage it was already broken in. should i do it the same way i broke in my revo 3.3?