need help with my hyper 8rtr
#1
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From: richmond, VA
im tryin to get my buggy setup and i have sum questions about it i poweres it up with batteries and when i go to alignthe front wheels with the controller i notice the right front is tracked off to the right quite a bit, i know that the tie rod needs to be adjusted but do i have to take it off the car to do it as its tight and i dont want to damage the ball joints ?
also a hear the throttle /brake servo whines a little when centered ? and lastly how do u properly adjust the brakes? and is there a way to kill the motor instead of running out of gas??
also a hear the throttle /brake servo whines a little when centered ? and lastly how do u properly adjust the brakes? and is there a way to kill the motor instead of running out of gas??
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From: richmond, VA
anybody??anyways i got the engine kill part as i just ran a tank through her. it took awhile to get it started.but once it got started she ran good i richened it up to the point of spittin out a little fuel.she was runnin very cool too ,i could even touch it with my hand. im using odonnels 20%. man what a beautiful sound it makes . i love that 2stroke pinging sound from the pipe.im gonna run 1 more tank on idle only . then start slow from there
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From: Macon,
GA
First more then likely your front end is set with some toe out which most racer run between 1 and 2 degree tow out. So you center your trim where each wheel is pointed out the same.
I do not recommend putting your finger over the stinger to stop it unless you have gloves on, as a big block pipe gets HOT! Stop it buy either pinching the fuel line or tapping the flywheel through the chassis with your shoe. I use my finger but best to have a glove on.
You adjust the brakes but the brake rods. I do not have the RTR as I only do kits but if it is the same as my Pro kit you have to siliver knobs on the 2 brake rods and by truning them you make the rods shorter or longer. Keep in mind RTR radios and servos are barely adequate! All so some questions take days to get answered so have some patients.
I do not recommend putting your finger over the stinger to stop it unless you have gloves on, as a big block pipe gets HOT! Stop it buy either pinching the fuel line or tapping the flywheel through the chassis with your shoe. I use my finger but best to have a glove on.
You adjust the brakes but the brake rods. I do not have the RTR as I only do kits but if it is the same as my Pro kit you have to siliver knobs on the 2 brake rods and by truning them you make the rods shorter or longer. Keep in mind RTR radios and servos are barely adequate! All so some questions take days to get answered so have some patients.
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From: richmond, VA
thats what i hear about the radio and servos i think in 2-3weeks i will replace both with some high tork/speed digital sevos and a nicer radio.
what do yal reccomend for both?
also i also noticed than when the car is on it kills the motor so i need to adjust the throttle linkage how is that done exactly?
what do yal reccomend for both?
also i also noticed than when the car is on it kills the motor so i need to adjust the throttle linkage how is that done exactly?
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From: Hamburg, NY
you can adjust the linkage along with the trim on the transmitter
RTR servos are usually crap so its a good idea to replace them
a good servo is the futaba 3303 it is about $30 and it has 99oz of torque with a 4.8 volt reciever pack and 124oz of torque with a 6.0 volt reciever pack this servo would be good for steering and brake/throttle
also-i highly recomend a 6.0 volt reciever pack if you dont already have one
RTR servos are usually crap so its a good idea to replace them
a good servo is the futaba 3303 it is about $30 and it has 99oz of torque with a 4.8 volt reciever pack and 124oz of torque with a 6.0 volt reciever pack this servo would be good for steering and brake/throttle
also-i highly recomend a 6.0 volt reciever pack if you dont already have one



