getting into racing with a buggy?
#1
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From: Clayton, MO
any chance someone could add my on aim? whatismouse is my screenname. i have lots of questions and dont feel like starting threads everytime.
anyways, what do you think of starting off with a used roller chassis from ebay? how do the racing buggies of a few years ago compare to the ones of today? since this will be my first racing experience, id rather something more durable, then something ultra-lightweight and fragile.
with all used equipment how much do you think i could start racing for moneywise? i dont currently own any equipment except a charger. id like to maximize ease of use, how much do those new transmitters cost that automatically change frequencies and all that.
any advice, even in the form of links to similar past topics or articles would be much appreciated!
anyways, what do you think of starting off with a used roller chassis from ebay? how do the racing buggies of a few years ago compare to the ones of today? since this will be my first racing experience, id rather something more durable, then something ultra-lightweight and fragile.
with all used equipment how much do you think i could start racing for moneywise? i dont currently own any equipment except a charger. id like to maximize ease of use, how much do those new transmitters cost that automatically change frequencies and all that.
any advice, even in the form of links to similar past topics or articles would be much appreciated!
#2
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From: Kingston UK, but living in Athens, GREECE
How much driving experience do you have? I'm guessing not much since you're talking about buying a car... You could get a used one (but be very careful, in my experience used cars almost always end up costing more than new ones), but I'd recommend a new one, and especially if you're racing, then one you have to build yourself. I then suggest you bash around with it until you are really comfortable with it, then head to the racetrack and watch them for a couple of weekends, try to learn as much as you cna, then when you think you are ready, head over there on a practise day and try not to get in the way of the fast guys. Soon you'll be ready for your first race. If you have some experience please let us know, and apologies for my assumption...
EDIT: By the way, don't be afraid to post questions here, this is a good thread, ask away. There's no need to create a new one for every question.
EDIT: By the way, don't be afraid to post questions here, this is a good thread, ask away. There's no need to create a new one for every question.
#3
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From: Charlottesville,
VA
A raceworthy setup including a new kit and most everything else will run you $1000-$1300.
I saw a very nice 777 WC roller + spares for $360.
I saw a very nice 777 WC roller + spares for $360.
#4
i asked the same thing a couple days ago. they told me a 8ight RTR would be good to start out with since it comes wit electronics and all youll need is a race legal engine. you mite have to make some other upgrades but it wont cost as much as a race kit...but it probly wont be as competative.
#5
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From: Macon,
GA
I do not want to scare you off but this hobby and particularly racing is quite exspencive but in my opinion well worth it. It is a lot of fun and you meet a great crowd of people. I have only been racing for about a year and only seriously since January. But I have been in the hobby for about 10 years. I got so bored with the bashing I all most gave up the hobby until I started racing!
As far as what it would cost to get started depends on how involved you want to get. Are you planning on just club racing or serious racing? Yes a good set up will cost around $1000 to $1500 not including spares, fuel, tools and so on.
We all are here to help!
Good Luck and have fun.
As far as what it would cost to get started depends on how involved you want to get. Are you planning on just club racing or serious racing? Yes a good set up will cost around $1000 to $1500 not including spares, fuel, tools and so on.
We all are here to help!
Good Luck and have fun.
#6
Yes it is a money pit, but a very rewarding one, I have just built a cen matrix with a vspec and dsm 2, its a good start to racing i believe and it cost me about $1400. I had to buy starter box and gell cell and charger plus all my batteries and stuff, so it does add up but once you get those costs out of the way its ussually smooth sailing. If you just be careful when you start out and dont try to keep up with the faster guys, just find your style first you wont smash as much and it will be cheaper for you. As for second hand, buyer beware, its pretty easy for a seller to clean up a tired car and say it hasnt been used much......I'd stick to new if i were you. In saying that they can be usefull for parts, add up the cost of the things you think you might break and cant do without and you can compare this price to just buying a second hand rig and having every single part you need. It sux when the weekend is cut short coz an unexpected part gave way and you cant get a replacment.
anyway, you say you want ease of use, RTR might be the go for you, no building just fun straight up, if you are inexperienced is a top of the range expensive car going to help you? probably not, its better to start small and make your mistakes on something less expensive before you go the whole hog. good luck anyway.
anyway, you say you want ease of use, RTR might be the go for you, no building just fun straight up, if you are inexperienced is a top of the range expensive car going to help you? probably not, its better to start small and make your mistakes on something less expensive before you go the whole hog. good luck anyway.
#7
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From: Santa Cruz,
CA
The intitial cost will be very high. It is always better to buy a kit and not an RTR if you decide to race. Upgrading an RTR will cost you more in the long run. If you're starting from blank you will need the kit, a good radio system(some radios will not come with a reciever and module so you can purchase a DSM system separately), two good quality servos, engine/pipe combo, reciever batteries, starter box, two nimh stick packs or gell cell for the starter box, and a mutli-use charger.
Once that's done you will need the starter basics like fuel, glow plug+charger, spare parts, amb transponder. That will cost you close to $2,000.00 [
]
Once that's done you will need the starter basics like fuel, glow plug+charger, spare parts, amb transponder. That will cost you close to $2,000.00 [
]
#8
Yes the cost of hopping up an RTR isn't cheap but most people i know who have started out regretted spending huge cash on a car they couldn't keep on the track. A decent RTR can set you back $800, make your mistakes on that, sell it then get your dream car. Do it the other way round and your paying big bucks to replace top shelf expensive parts you keep breaking. Go to the track and a good seasoned racers kit car will always have its roof pointing up, these cars are built for speed. most RTR's have speed but are also a lot more durable.
#9
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From: Clayton, MO
im really looking for durability. i couldnt care less about shaving grams and carbon fiber parts and whatnot. is the losi 8ight rtr more durable then the lastest kit buggies?
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From: Macon,
GA
The Pro Kits come with many hop ups and better parts then the RTR! All so depending where you race most RTR have out law engines. Most club racing does not matter but sanction race does. Check with your local track. The cheapest part is getting in to the hobby staying it gets expensive!
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From: Santa Cruz,
CA
Hahaha...staying can cost much more if you're that addicted to speed and options. I would not suggest the Losi RTR at all. RTR's in general will cost you more in the long run. In the long run, you'll replace the cheap quality radio...yes the Spektrum free-bee is cheap...you will end up getting a 3PK, KO Propo, or M11. You'll get a better engine, you'll buy newer and better servos (alot if you get the 8ight RTR)...it just becomes a money pit more than it already is. Do yourself a favor and get into the hobby the right way if you decide to get into racing...you won't regret it.
#12
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From: ,,
CA
Losi 8ight is fine....look at what is included in the package...should also consider a good used one from ebay, only from a good seller though. Many ppl are selling it due to different driving styles..
#13
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From: Central,
MO
If you are going to buy something off of ebay make sure you find a ride that comes with enough spare parts to replace most anything on the car one time. Then you should also plan on replacing all the bearings in the ride at the same time. Once you have this done you basically have a new ride.
I purchased a used high end roller off FleaBay a couple years back. The car came as described, kinda. I got everything they said I would and a bunch more, a bunch of headaches.
1) I found most all of the bearings were wore out. This was roughly a $100
2) All of the lower A-Arms were shot and needed replaced to tighten the car up $40
3) The person that assembled the model cut several corners that required me to have to replace a few minor parts but spend a lot of mine time fixing things $20
In the end I had a buggy, motor, pipe, wheels and tires and body off FleaBay for roughly $400 that I put another $160 in parts plus I still needed to purchase the radio gear, starter box etc....
I purchased a new Losi 8 kit about 7 months ago for $500.
New radio was rouhgly $250
New motor $200
New servos $200
New pipe $70
total.................$1225
Compare that tot he $560 in put into a used car and the only thing I didnt have to purchase was the motor and pipe. You can see the total cost of the FleeBay car was just as much if not more than the cost of the new kit.
Now is there anything wrong with purchasing a used buggy, no. You just need to purchase one locally that you can inspect prior to buying. This gives you the chances to check out the bearings, diff's, spur gears, etc... It doesnt sound like much but $25 here $50 there and the next thing you know you have the cost of a new kit in a used buggy!!!
I purchased a used high end roller off FleaBay a couple years back. The car came as described, kinda. I got everything they said I would and a bunch more, a bunch of headaches.
1) I found most all of the bearings were wore out. This was roughly a $100
2) All of the lower A-Arms were shot and needed replaced to tighten the car up $40
3) The person that assembled the model cut several corners that required me to have to replace a few minor parts but spend a lot of mine time fixing things $20
In the end I had a buggy, motor, pipe, wheels and tires and body off FleaBay for roughly $400 that I put another $160 in parts plus I still needed to purchase the radio gear, starter box etc....
I purchased a new Losi 8 kit about 7 months ago for $500.
New radio was rouhgly $250
New motor $200
New servos $200
New pipe $70
total.................$1225
Compare that tot he $560 in put into a used car and the only thing I didnt have to purchase was the motor and pipe. You can see the total cost of the FleeBay car was just as much if not more than the cost of the new kit.
Now is there anything wrong with purchasing a used buggy, no. You just need to purchase one locally that you can inspect prior to buying. This gives you the chances to check out the bearings, diff's, spur gears, etc... It doesnt sound like much but $25 here $50 there and the next thing you know you have the cost of a new kit in a used buggy!!!
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From: richmond, VA
ORIGINAL: chickenfart
Yes the cost of hopping up an RTR isn't cheap but most people i know who have started out regretted spending huge cash on a car they couldn't keep on the track. A decent RTR can set you back $800, make your mistakes on that, sell it then get your dream car. Do it the other way round and your paying big bucks to replace top shelf expensive parts you keep breaking. Go to the track and a good seasoned racers kit car will always have its roof pointing up, these cars are built for speed. most RTR's have speed but are also a lot more durable.
Yes the cost of hopping up an RTR isn't cheap but most people i know who have started out regretted spending huge cash on a car they couldn't keep on the track. A decent RTR can set you back $800, make your mistakes on that, sell it then get your dream car. Do it the other way round and your paying big bucks to replace top shelf expensive parts you keep breaking. Go to the track and a good seasoned racers kit car will always have its roof pointing up, these cars are built for speed. most RTR's have speed but are also a lot more durable.
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From: Santa Cruz,
CA
Bottom line is, if you're getting into RACING as a hobby, get a kit and not an rtr. You'll be glad that you did in the end. Just be warned this hobby will cost you...hahahaha!
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From: Endicott,
NY
You should get a rtr of ebay or through here so you can use it when you recieve it,personally i'd stay away from Ofna i had bad luck from the day i purchesed it,i got rid of in a trade,but what ever you want to do just go for it.
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From: .,
MO
ORIGINAL: WhAtIsMoUsE
im really looking for durability. i couldnt care less about shaving grams and carbon fiber parts and whatnot. is the losi 8ight rtr more durable then the lastest kit buggies?
im really looking for durability. i couldnt care less about shaving grams and carbon fiber parts and whatnot. is the losi 8ight rtr more durable then the lastest kit buggies?
Damn, I am minutes from Clayton, and I just sold my rtr 8 to a local guy. I liked the buggy, but I wanted a truggy, so I bought the 8-T and took the rtr motor and electronics for now. My buddy and several other guys are running the RTR's down at Dirtburners and not having any issues, after they got them setup. The rtr is an excellent entry level racer, buy a front shock tower from the kit for 20 bucks and you will ready to go! PM me if you need any help getting started, I do not compete at the track, I just like to go drive there and may compete next year.
#18
The confusion.....whenever somebody asks what car they should buy it just opens a can of worms. Just check out whats on sale, how much parts are, does it look tough and all that stuff and buy something to suit your budget, taste and skill level, why would you buy a super expensive car if your a noob? I started out racing with an RTR revo.....great truck, smashed it several times, accidentally run it lean a couple of times, when I was done i chucked it on ebay and used the cash to help fund my dream car. Now I know how to drive, how to tune and all that, I never really break anything (accidents still happen, I aint perfect). If you buy a tricked up car with all the bells and whistles and your always smashing it, you will be replacing expensive parts, most RTR's are really durable and have the beginner in mind, thats why they are not tricked up to make em light....its not going to matter to a beginner.
You will find that a lot of the RTR stuff on the market has been well thought out and is pretty tough, you will also find that just because some part is aluminium and shiny it doesnt mean its the best part in the world, or even that its better than composite or other plastics, sometimes its just a gimmick (anybody who ever bought integy parts knows this).
E.G CEN Matrix RTR - $400 to your door
CEN Matrix FRE - $400 to your door +radio + engine + pipe = big $$$$
Matrix RTR is indestructable, I've seen them take an absolute beating and get back up and keep on going.
Matrix FRE, gave my mate a go, broke a carbon fibre shock tower worth 40 big ones[
]......nobody drives my car now
you be the judge.
You will find that a lot of the RTR stuff on the market has been well thought out and is pretty tough, you will also find that just because some part is aluminium and shiny it doesnt mean its the best part in the world, or even that its better than composite or other plastics, sometimes its just a gimmick (anybody who ever bought integy parts knows this).
E.G CEN Matrix RTR - $400 to your door
CEN Matrix FRE - $400 to your door +radio + engine + pipe = big $$$$
Matrix RTR is indestructable, I've seen them take an absolute beating and get back up and keep on going.
Matrix FRE, gave my mate a go, broke a carbon fibre shock tower worth 40 big ones[
]......nobody drives my car now
you be the judge.



