Jerzferno

Well im pretty close. I have a 14/48 on order along with a few other things. Zain, I have a few of those mods you mentioned. The buggy already came with E-cliped A-Arm pins. Im using a Proline High Down Force wing. Still not sold on the wing thing yet? Some guys swear you cant run well without one and it makes a huge difference. With a wing about 8 inches wide, and 3 inches across going 20 mph on a dirt track, I dont see any aerodynamics coming in to play? If any, what could it add and ounce of down force? I was going to try and experiment with fans and scales to actually see the effects, if any? If I do, ill let you know what I find out? I really like the wings for looks, protection of the cooling head, and a great handle for the turn Marshalls to grab. LOL What diff oil do you guys use? Right now I have 5k / 10k / 3k front to rear. Much better than the stock grease it came with. I was not much of a "diff oil knowledgeable" person, so I didnt think it made much difference. It does! LOL I was thinking of getting a new lightweight chasis. But with a baby on the way, I think I have invested enough for now.

mtbkym01

Hey Jerz, check these out
[link]http://cgi.ebay.com.au/DR-7075-3-2mm-Lightened-Chassis-for-Kyosho-MP777-SP2_W0QQitemZ320157640489QQihZ011QQcategoryZ44028Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem[/link]

I've got the ST-R version, and so far for the price, I'm pretty impressed, not much run time on it yet though, so unsure of it's durability, but much better than the standard one.

Jerzferno

mtb - That chassis looks sweet. Keep me posted on how it works?

zaintlouis

Mtb, i admire your effort in helping Jerz but Dragon racing products aren't worthy to be trusted. If one part is made of poor quality materials then so as the others.

Check this link. it took me an hour to find/dig for this web address just to warn you and save from being a victim like what happened to people who bought it.

http://www.ofna.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6611

Jerz, so you did tried it with fan and scale?

i bought a speedgun and digital scale. i'll do a series of speed test with regards to tire types, engines, weights. i'll will know which tire, engine, weight is ideal to have to make it ran fast. problem is i do not have any good weather at the moment. it keeps raining all the time. it makes me sick if i don't get my hands on my RX and burn nitro!! :-)

Jerzferno

Zain - No I havent tried fans and scales yet. I plan on it. I have one more race before the season ends. I need to install my OS V-Spec engine/header/pipe and break it in. Then run the last race and hopefully place top 5 in the A? Thats my goal. Then in the off seaosn I plan on doing a lot of wacky experiments like the wing test. Ill let ya know how it works. Keep tuned to this thread. Thanks for the warning on that chassis. Yeah I dont want to get stung.

Jerzferno

Rock - In a previous thread, you said you were going to get an STS .21. Did you get it yet? I was very very close to geting one until I found out it needed a gallon of fuel through it to break it in. Man I dont have the time for that. 5 to 6 tanks is painful enough. It does look like a great engine. I read everything I could find on it and 46u has some good feedback on his. I have an OS .21 V-Spec with an OS 2000 header and an OS 2060 pipe on the way. I have to get something different. The .28 just cant get into its power band on the track I run. I just installed an OS .18TM on my T-MAXX. Broke it in with no problems last weekend. What an awesome engine. Everything I was told about it was true. Break in is painless. Easy to tune. Holds a tune. More powerful than the Traxxas 3.3 engine. So I was sold on OS. Was told a lot of good things about the V-Spec as well. A few guys at my track highly recommended it. Cant go wrong with recommendations from friends. Let me know how you make out with the STS?

rockinro

Jerzferno i haven't made a move yet coz i really haven't had any time at all to touch any of my cars...i'm swamped with work and the weather is still too hot...i start sweating like crazy after being out for 5 mins.

But i will get that engine...and when i do i'll definetely keep u guys posted on what happens...so far based on my still limited STS experience, all i can say is the guys at STSmicroengines are real helpful and friendly.

Tell me how that OS performs...and especially in comparison to the GXR throughout the RPM range.

Enjoy...and hope this will give u the edge u were lookin for in ur races.

mtbkym01

Thanks for the info zaint, I guess I'll be finding out the hard way with the chassis, oh well, luckily it wasn't very expensive. Looks like a BCE will be on the way fairly soon

zaintlouis

Mt, i notice you are from Queensland? i saw that place on tv it's so beautiful i'm impressed by it's landscape, were you there when the American Choppers visited the place? i didn't know Russel Crowe live in that place too. I just realized it when American Choppers was with Crowe on Queensland on a certain project they were making.

Jerz, goodluck on your new engine? you'll be amazed when it screamed on you.

Hi all! check this link. I think it could help give ideas on what you should do next on OUR buggy.

Actually i found some to do with mine! Your ideas plus theirs. it would be just great!

http://www.rcmag.com/reviews/course/.../technique.htm

REEGSf

Hi
I've recently purchased a US inferno sports 4wd buggy with the gxr28 engine. I drove it on Saturday & all was fine,it was basically flying - it would have taken off if it had wings attached. But on Sunday it just does not want to idle correctly & it also cuts out when you accelerate.What could be the problem?
Any suggestions please.
Please help
Thanks

Jerzferno

Remove the carburetor and apply a thin coat of High Temperature RTV to the carburetor neck. Thats the part that slips in to the engine block. Chances are you have an air leak there. I had one that drove me nuts. I finally found it and the RTV did the trick. You can buy RTV at Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot etc. When you remove the carb, kep in mind there is a black O-ring that is sandwiched between the carb neck and the block. Make sure it is in the proper position when you re-install the carb. Apply the RTV then reinstall it while the TRV is still wet. Give the carb a few twists once it is in place, then tighten it down. Prior to this, I rebuilt the carburetor at the recommendation of the hobby shop. The kit costs about 6 -7 bucks and consists of new needles, O-rings, and a new boot that goes over the slide. These carbs are notorious for leaks. Needles to say, the carb rebuild did not cure my problem. It was the leak I mentioned. I am replacing my .28 with an OS V-spec .21. My .28 runs extremely hot even though it is adjuted rich? I just remove the engine last night and took off the fly wheel. There was lots of dried dirt/mud between the flywheel and bearing. This indicates a bad bearing leak that will also affect the engines performance. My .28 ran really good for the first gallon, then went down hill after that. So the OS is going in. My track is tight and the big block suffers and cant get to it peak RPM's. The .21 will be much faster on this track. Good luck. Let me know how you make out?

mtbkym01

I live in far north Queensland, a fair bit away from where the Chopper boys and Russell Crowe were, but yeah it's a brilliant place to live (apart from not having an offroad track at present, not for long hopefully), we have the Daintree Rainforest, and the Great Barrier Reef at our doorstep. If you ever get the chance, you should definately visit Cairns in Far North Queensland.

REEGSf

Hi Jerzferno
Thanks for the info. I'll try it as soon as I have a chance.
I also need to check if you have the correct settings for this particular engine -- needle settings,idle settings,fuel mixture etc.
Do you set the engine when it is warm or cold ?

Jerzferno

You have to tune an engine while its at operating temperature. Run it for a few minutes, give it a few high speed passes, then tune. Tune in small increments. 1/8th of a turn. Make a few runs, adjust if necessary. Tune your high speed needle first, low speed second and lastly the idle if needed. After your tune is set, if you change one needle, you should retune. I tend to not do this and dont really see anything from not doing it? But thats what I read in an engine forum and try to do it as much as possible.

zaintlouis

You're exactly in the right place where i wanna be

Heard there's a new Kyosho buggy coming out in the pre worlds race, does anyone can confirm this and add more details?

Jerz, what's your clutch set up in your inferno? Is the race over?

Jerzferno

Zain - heard nothing about a new Inferno/buggy coming out. My clutch set up is stock.. Works great so I have no plans on changin it.

Da Smak

Yes, there is talk of an 777wc2 on the grapevine, from what I've heard it's just a few tweaks again, same as Kyosho have always done.

allenthen831

same here man my kyosho is stock and its very fast

zaintlouis

i 'm really so curious to know about the "few tweaks" you mentioned. so it's really not a totally new kit.

Hey Smak i saw your vid about running just two wheels one side of your truck, that was amazing. My 5 yo son ask me if i could do it too i just honestly said "no" hehe.


Yeh am still using the stocks as well. others have mix clutch.

savagehead

My Feedback: (25)

hey guys not to get off the subject but i have a kyosho us sports inferno parts car that i traded for a long time ago. $90.00 plus shipping if anybody want it just pm or e-mail me. Sorry i do not have no pics.

Jerzferno

My new .21 OS V-Spec is here. Well........................it was delivered to my brother-in-laws that is. Ill have it tomorrow. I have to break it in quickly. My last club race is this Sunday. Hopefully Ill get a top 5 A-Main finish? At least thats my goal. Rock, Zain, Allen, Ill keep you guys posted on the installation, break in, my first impressions, and finally the race results. Stay tuned.

zaintlouis

Yeh Jerz, standing by. as they say it's 10% on the buggy and 90% on the driver to get the "win". hehe i'm getting excited about this.
if you have the time to polish the crankshafts and make the scoops bigger do it!

REEGSf

Hi Jerz
I applied a thin coat of RTV like you said but the car is still running really bad -- It idles too high -- when you set it lower it dies & when the idling is too low it does not start -- It idles so high that is goes on it's own -- You don't even have to use the throttle -- but once you use the throttle it cuts out -- I'm beginning to think that this car was made on a Monday morning, when the person who made it had one major hangover !!! Don't you perhaps have a video or detailed explanation of how the carb needs to be set. I think the settings are completely out .

zaintlouis

Most likely you have an air leak on your front bearing, or if you're using pullstarts, air leaks sometimes comes from your pull start shaft, the rod linking to your crankshaft. or you can soak you entire engine in a diesel fuel. plug all the holes except for one and blow it with air, (use airgun- not necessarily an air rifle)
well, the bubbles will tell you where the leaks are coming out from. i use diesel fuel to soak my engine cos it's cheap and not hazardous to corrosion. you can use it for cleaning eventually.

also i recommend to check the silicon o-rings on your needles. but please when you remove it has to be slow. this is just how i get rid of my engine flameouts.

REEGSf

Hi
I'll try checking for leaks at the pull start shaft as you suggested -- I don't have an airgun to check for the leaks -- what else can I use ?
I'm new at this game -- the silcone o rings that you mentioned -- are they in the carb itself ?
Is it a norm that these engines are problematic ?
I clean the car & the air filter etc after each outing .but still I have problems ... why ?